Cold idle - missing, sputter "chunk" noise 2010 w/2000 miles.

[Ptaaty]

Hi, I just bought a 2010 FJR with 2000 miles. When cold it idles rough, sound like it stutters or misses. Actually even warm the idle sounds just a bit off but much smoother.

Here is a vid - notice the "chunk" type noise?



Any advice would be appreciated. FYI - it was "new" in December so still under warranty.

Sorry the video is kinda "breathy, I think the phone mic was clipping. Right at 19 seconds is one of the chunk sounds, one right at start.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Ehh...on the shittier side of normal for FJRs. A throttle synch might help here but I'll bet it goes away after it warms up.

If you were to crack open the motor, you'd see mostly straight cut gear teeth; on the primary, both countershaft balancers, and the whole trans and middle gear except for the 90 degree bevel gears. The "chunk" you're hearing is some of those teeth (probably the balancers and/or the primary) banging back and forth in their (within spec) gear lash during a double misfire. I.e. the crank slows down enough during a double misfire to have the inertia of the driven gears make an audible "chunk" as the teeth come together for a fraction of a second.

I think the forum consensus is they all run a little rough when cold, then smooth out after about 2 bars on the display. My '06 does it, albeit with not the frequency that yours does.

Also, kick your idle up to 1100 RPM when warm.

 

[Ptaaty]

Thank you for the response. Sounds like this type of thing is normal but mine is worse than typical. I'll make the warm idle adjustment. You suggest that a throttle body sync may help with this, would this be covered by warranty?

Just curious, because my bike is till under warranty, and I have an appointment with the dealer to check it out. If it wasn't under warranty I would buy the kit and try it myself (will probably do this anyway for future use.

 

[TheZsdad]

My 09 is grouchy when i first wake it up. I think it got a bit smoother after it had about 10K miles on it.

Put your earplugs in and your helmet on before you start it.

Ditto on the warm idle 1100 warm.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Thank you for the response. Sounds like this type of thing is normal but mine is worse than typical. I'll make the warm idle adjustment. You suggest that a throttle body sync may help with this, would this be covered by warranty?
Just curious, because my bike is till under warranty, and I have an appointment with the dealer to check it out. If it wasn't under warranty I would buy the kit and try it myself (will probably do this anyway for future use.

Also keep in mind that with only 2,000 miles on it, your bike has been sitting for the majority of its 4+ year existence. I'd run a few tanks of fresh gas through it first, maybe throw in some Sea Foam while you're at it, and see if your cold misfire gets any better.

I don't know if a synch is covered under warranty; can't hurt to call and ask.

 

[Ptaaty]

Thanks for the ideas - dropped in some chemtool b12 (like seafoam) and am into my second tank of gas. I guess I was thinking it didn't have fuel before december (was new, no miles)...but can't hurt to try these steps.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Thanks for the ideas - dropped in some chemtool b12 (like seafoam) and am into my second tank of gas. I guess I was thinking it didn't have fuel before december (was new, no miles)...but can't hurt to try these steps.

My assumption is they at least test fired it in Japan sometime after engine assembly, and that residual fuel in the injectors may have turned to varnish since then. When they're shipped to dealers, they're about 85% assembled in a crate.

Since it's been sitting for so long, you may want to do a clutch soak if you find that it is shifting poorly.

 

[bluesdog]

What is the performance like coming off idle?

I didn't consider my FJR truly broken in until well after 2000 miles. I found it did that little 'cold hiccup', fairly regularly.

A TBS, and setting the warm idle @ 1100 RPM greatly reduced the hiccup incidence.

The unauthorized TBS has pretty much eliminated it.

A few seafoam, chemtool b12 or ring-free treatments, as suggested, certainly can't hurt.

I bet once you exercise that engine for a few hundred more miles, and do the Un-authorized TBS, she'll idle and run much smoother.

 

[Ptaaty]

What is the performance like coming off idle?
I didn't consider my FJR truly broken in until well after 2000 miles. I found it did that little 'cold hiccup', fairly regularly.

A TBS, and setting the warm idle @ 1100 RPM greatly reduced the hiccup incidence.

The unauthorized TBS has pretty much eliminated it.

A few seafoam, chemtool b12 or ring-free treatments, as suggested, certainly can't hurt.

I bet once you exercise that engine for a few hundred more miles, and do the Un-authorized TBS, she'll idle and run much smoother.

Performance off idle seems fine (I guess I'll specifically test now...) once warmed up. I bumped up warm idle to about 1100. I have zero hiccups warm at this point. The unauthorized TBS looks slightly tricky to me, but I suppose I could try.

 

[Ptaaty]

Thanks for the ideas - dropped in some chemtool b12 (like seafoam) and am into my second tank of gas. I guess I was thinking it didn't have fuel before december (was new, no miles)...but can't hurt to try these steps.

My assumption is they at least test fired it in Japan sometime after engine assembly, and that residual fuel in the injectors may have turned to varnish since then. When they're shipped to dealers, they're about 85% assembled in a crate.

Since it's been sitting for so long, you may want to do a clutch soak if you find that it is shifting poorly.

The shifting has been a little bit clunky but the clutch seems to be fully engaging with no noticeable slip at all. I figured it was just me...I had come from riding a road star for about 5 years (shifting by heel down). It is definitely livable...would it get better on its own? If a clutch soak would get me to snick-snick gear changes all the time, I'd be up for it, especially if it isn't something that would resolve itself. Once warm, it shifts very well down - and only issues up...this is why I am thinking it is just me.

 

[bluesdog]

The main difficulty I found with that unauthorized TBS is keeping the darn linkage still while making small adjustments with the screwdriver. Otherwise it's easy, especially if you have access to a good synch tool

The clutch soak procedure is for stickyness, not slipping. If you experience a grabby clutch, for example. My '11 never needed it.

For shifting smoothness, I've found that putting a little pre-load on the shift lever with your toe makes a world of difference for upshifts. Shaft drive bikes in particular tend to have a slight torsion load on the driver train, so quick shifting seems to be key.

 

[Ptaaty]

Just want to say thanks to all...not sure if it was the Chemtool/fuel system clean or the warm idle bump up, but this morning my bike only had one very minor hiccup at cold start (and it was in the first second or two) much much better than before. I'll hold off on the TPS until I do the plug change.

For shifting - I'll give the preload trick a try, thanks again.

 

[Slardy]

Ptaaty,

For balky shifting you might try bleeding the clutch.

Also, make sure the clutch lever is at its max stoke. If this cures the balky shifting, then you can try reducing the stroke.

You should not have to preload the upshift on a properly running FJR, esp. one with only 2000 mi on it.

Slardy