Cold Start Fast Idle Follow Up with resolution

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Unicycle52

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Here is an update to my Cold Start Fast Idle issue I posted about 4 weeks ago.

Turns into Starter replacement then Valve Job. (All legit)

Bike History: The bike is an 04 FJR with 82K miles on it. Well maintained, former "ticker" that had the entire cylinder head assembly replaced at 8900 miles back in 05 under warranty.

Bike has run trouble free for the past 73K mile with few maintenance issues. Replace one CCT at 40K under warranty and replaced it again at 75K with the updated CCT.

For several weeks with riding limited to weekends for me this time of year(New England)the bike starts immediately then stalls. Then doesn't want to start. Only way to start it is with the throttle wide open and then hold the rev's up to 2 grand for 30 seconds or more to keep it running.

Well,it turned out to be a quite a process.

Trouble code 14 indicated possible stuck TPS or possible blocked intake air pressure system.

Replaced the TPS as a hopeful quick fix but it made no change. Re-installed original TPS no change.

Next day NO START. Get it to dealer. He can't get it to start and upon "digging-in" soon discovers that the starter is drawing twice the current it is supposed to draw. Remove starter, it is all loaded with "guck". I take it to rebuild shop hoping to save the expense of a new starter and they confirm bad armature and can't rebuild it because the armature is un-available and they are not set up to rewind such a small armature.

Starter has to be dealt with whether or not it is related to the fast idle issue. Bite the bullet and order new starter which is on back order. Wait 2 weeks. The hope is that the starter is zapping the battery big time upon start up and once the bike starts and I need to keep the rev's up for the alternator to "juice back" the battery and keeps it running.

Replace starter and still no joy. No start.

Run a compression check. Compression WAY down. Run a leakdown test and leakdown is like 50% instead of 7%. Massive leaking out all the intake valves. Pull the cylinder head order all new intake valves and gaskets on Monday. On Saturday bike is back together running like a top.

Hind sight being 20/20 I have noticed a distinct drop in my fuel mileage over this past season (10,500 miles). I got to a point where I was getting 50 miles less per tank full than I used to get. Way back when I would go 220 -225 mile after fill-up before the "low fuel" would flash. The last tank I ran it hit "low fuel" at 175 miles!

Also during the course of the summer I had notice that the bike didn't seem to have the punch it used to have. It used to "launch" at 2500 rpm and during the season seemed to need to be above 4K rpm before it would start pulling. I kind of attributed it to a bit of aging from high mileage on the bike and maybe an over active imagination about its earlier performance.

Bike now runs like a "***** ape". I realize my memories about early performance were not inflated and now realize the the degrading of performance was so gradual that it only showed in subtle ways. But upon reflecting upon it I can definitely say that it all makes sense now when I think about the decreasing fuel mileage and the "aging" performance. (Of coarse the aging rider (59) has nothing to do with these perceptions.) The diagnostic code indicating a possible blocked intake pressure system was actually not that far off. The intake air pressure sensor wasn't able to send a correct pressure signal to the ECU because the "blow back" from from the intake valve leak was throwing the air intake pressure out the window.

All is well with the FJR. Mechanic says the cylinders looked great. Bike has lots of life left in it. I was bummed that I had to drop some substantial cash into it at this point but I'll get over it. It runs like new.

I have nothing but good things to say about Hudson Cycles in Hudson, NH. They worked closely with me on the issues, kept me up to date, diagnosed the problem(s) efficiently and made the necessary repairs promptly. I had similar experience with them in 2005 when they did the "ticker repair". Highly recommend these guys.

Bill Hamilton

 
I just did near the same thing on my '05 @ 93k miles with one partially dead "hole". The cylinders still had the original cross-hatch. It now runs like I remember from "way-back-when", it will loft the front wheel at the twist of the wrist in 1st and 2nd gears...er...uhm....so I've been told....theoretically....with a professional rider on a closed course.

 
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Wow. Bummer. Sounds like some expensive repairs.

First, ebay is your friend. Specifically when it comes to replacing the starter. If you bought a new one at full MSRP.... well, OUCH!!!!

What is VERY disappointing is that you needed a valve job at only 89k miles after receiving a new head at 8900. I would have been on the phone with Yamaha trying to get them to pay for part of it. I think I also would have done the exhaust side too, though that would have greatly added to the expense. Based on when you got your new head, your exhaust side still has the 'bad' valve guide seals that could eventually cause problems. Since it was open, I would have put the new/updated valve guide seals in for the exhaust side.

Interesting your issue was with the intake valves. Usually it's the exhaust side that's an issue.

What was wrong with the intake valves? Just a bad seat? Had they worn or wallowed the valve/seat surface?

Did you have regular valve checks performed on the bike?

 
I just did near the same thing on my '05 @ 93k miles with one partially dead "hole". The cylinders still had the original cross-hatch. It now runs like I remember from "way-back-when", it will loft the front wheel at the twist of the wrist in 1st and 2nd gears...er...uhm....so I've been told....theoretically....with a professional rider on a closed course.
More info Mike! What specifically was wrong with yours?

Not good to see FJRs needing major engine surgery before 100k.

 
This looks like a good place to add this.

I ended up with the original engine from OCfjr's bike when he moved to Utah. It had been diagnosed with low compression at 90k so he changed it out for a much fresher unit.

A couple weeks ago for lack of nothing better to do I drug it out and tore it apart. The cylinder bores look like new but the piston crowns and combustion chambers are loaded with carbon build up. I sprayed brake clean in the intake ports and you could see it leak past the valves. No I didn't take pictures and the head is back on to keep it sealed. I have ordered a case of Ring-Free from the local dealer and plan to use it on a regular basis. I have used Sea foam in the past and think it is a good product but maybe the yami stuff is a little better. IMHO

I would rather spend some money on chemicals than do a head job. Mine is a recovering ticker that was done way before Warchild made it popular so I know it has the older parts.

When funds are avaliable I will do up the spare and have it ready for use.

 
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A couple weeks ago for lack of nothing better to do I drug it out and tore it apart.
Outstanding Ray! That's the kind of guy I like! But.... you should have taken some friggin pictures!!!!

I have been using Ring Free on pretty much every fill-up for a little over 40k miles now. (93k on the clock) Never did it with my first 226k FJR but like you, I hope it is cheap insurance in the long run.

 
A couple weeks ago for lack of nothing better to do I drug it out and tore it apart.
Outstanding Ray! That's the kind of guy I like! But.... you should have taken some friggin pictures!!!!

I have been using Ring Free on pretty much every fill-up for a little over 40k miles now. (93k on the clock) Never did it with my first 226k FJR but like you, I hope it is cheap insurance in the long run.

If you are real good I'll pull the head off and take some pictures. I only put it on with a couple bolts. It does mean I have to climb the steps to the loft and carry a couple tools so don't hold your breath. :p

 
A couple weeks ago for lack of nothing better to do I drug it out and tore it apart.
Outstanding Ray! That's the kind of guy I like! But.... you should have taken some friggin pictures!!!!

I have been using Ring Free on pretty much every fill-up for a little over 40k miles now. (93k on the clock) Never did it with my first 226k FJR but like you, I hope it is cheap insurance in the long run.

If you are real good I'll pull the head off and take some pictures. I only put it on with a couple bolts. It does mean I have to climb the steps to the loft and carry a couple tools so don't hold your breath. :p
Watch out Skooter...before you know it Ray will blaming you for his dropping something. :p

 
A couple weeks ago for lack of nothing better to do I drug it out and tore it apart.
Outstanding Ray! That's the kind of guy I like! But.... you should have taken some friggin pictures!!!!

I have been using Ring Free on pretty much every fill-up for a little over 40k miles now. (93k on the clock) Never did it with my first 226k FJR but like you, I hope it is cheap insurance in the long run.

If you are real good I'll pull the head off and take some pictures. I only put it on with a couple bolts. It does mean I have to climb the steps to the loft and carry a couple tools so don't hold your breath. :p
Watch out Skooter...before you know it Ray will blaming you for his dropping something. :p
I don't recall asking for input from east of the Rockies. :)

 
Here's your pictures if I remember how it's done.

head001-1.jpg


head006.jpg


head005.jpg


head001.jpg


head002.jpg


 
All that corrosion, looking **** is carbon buildup? Seriously? Is that going on inside my motor?? Do I have to start buying Ring Free too? I feel like such a lemming and I haven't even used any yet!

 
At the time there was some speculation that the compression loss was caused by the air box not being installed properly . The carbon build up seems to be the cause and looking in the ports there is build up on the valves and I doubt it came from dirty air.

Knowing Eric i'm sure all the service was done and I don't know what was used for oil.

 
Icky.

Boy, I SURE wish I could have kept the Dirty Ol Whore. Sure would like to have seen what the inside of that engine looked like with 225,000+ miles on it.

 
Before I ask this questions I want to remind everyone that it is NOT Friday in any part of the world :p

Would adding a small amount of diesel or some form of alcohol perform a similar cleansing function? Ideally diesel since that's available at any gas station and is cheap...

 
I just did near the same thing on my '05 @ 93k miles with one partially dead "hole". The cylinders still had the original cross-hatch. It now runs like I remember from "way-back-when", it will loft the front wheel at the twist of the wrist in 1st and 2nd gears...er...uhm....so I've been told....theoretically....with a professional rider on a closed course.
More info Mike! What specifically was wrong with yours?

Not good to see FJRs needing major engine surgery before 100k.
So, if you think that is bad, how about needing a top end job at 34,900 miles? I just got mine back from the shop for what was originally just a valve check. Okay, I went longer than I should have, but tight valves weren't the problem. It seems there was carbon buildup on three of the valves, holding them open and there was also carbon on the rings. The result was a complete top end job with all new valves and piston rings.

I have used nothing but Chevron gas and changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. No modifications have been made to intake, electronics, or exhaust. It's always garaged at night and never ridden in the rain. All of my riding is for commuting and highway trips down to L. A. Like the first post, I noticed the fuel mileage had decreased by about 5%.

In the end, I have a new top end and a lighter wallet. Not sure if I could've done anything different.

 
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Shocking Pictures...

Here's mine at 37k miles:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=23034&st=0&p=271113entry271113

It was done for a Ticker Rebuild (which it was not) it ended up being a Throttlebody Assy.

I use Top Tier Gas and usually 89 or 92 Octane primarily and don't baby it... so carbon does not have a chance to settle in.

Yamaha Ring Free would probably be the best product to cut loose the Carbon Build Up if you think you have some.

 
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