Cold Starting

[harpo]

When it is cold my 05 sometimes doesn't have enough amps to turn the motor over. I do keep it on the Battery Tender in the winter months to help but that doesn't always work. Is there a battery that's got more amps that anyone has tried? In the summer it spins the motor fine and the only time I have any trouble is when its hot and I try to start after a quick fill up or a restart.

 

[Nanahanman]

Have you had the battery tested to make sure it is working to it's full capacity?

 

[RossKean]

^^^ +1

In cooler temperatures, batteries will not produce as many cranking amps. A battery that is just fine at 75 °F may be woefully inadequate at 40 °F. A load test is the first step. If the battery checks out OK, you might have a starter motor that is beginning to go. Most noticeable at lower temperatures because the battery has a much harder time to put out the much higher current demanded by the starter. The check for this is to measure the cranking amps using a clamp-on DC ammeter.

 

[harper]

Define "cold". Cold is a lot different in Ontario than Alabama.

 

[mi_pjk]

Also, oil is thicker. makes for more difficult to turn over motor.

That said, I've used AGM batteries for older bike, and 4 wheelers. i'm pretty happy.

 

[HotRodZilla]

You aren't using a lithium battery are you? Something like a Shorai? If not, see above. If you are, the Lithium batteries have to be "warmed up" before they'll start reliably below about 40°.

 

[its just rain]

I guess my first question would be "how old is the battery". If it's several years old an easy fix would be to buy a new one.

 

[Cyclepath]

That's interesting. I'm third owner of a 2004, have owned it now for 5 years, and never have a problem with the battery / charging system (yet).

Just started her up today to run some fuel stabilizer through her gullet and tuck her in for the winter. Hadn't been run for just over a month, and even at 3 degrees Celcius (about 36 F), she spun over and started right up.

Yes battery age / condition may be a factor, but I am also wondering about your charging system. Have you checked the idle voltage, and voltage at about 1500 RPM? Mine shows about 14.1 volts.

Years ago on a Yamaha RD400, I experienced charging circuit frustration, eventually realizing my rectifier was leaking charge to ground when running. Dead battery about drove me nuts - always seemed to happen at the worst possible times.

I'm sure I've seen other, related threads to charging system troubleshooting on this forum. Good luck in your quest!

 

[NTXFJR]

Might want to get the battery load tested, if it's good then you could do an amp check on the starter motor. Acting up also when it's hot out makes it sound like a bad starter motor drawing more amps than it should.

 

[mcatrophy]

Could be the starter motor on its way out. When they do begin to die, they draw excessive current.

 

[Joel S.]

pull the battery, head to batteries plus or some place like it, they will test it and have a replacement if needed.

the 2 year duracell are supposed to be very good, if they fit your bike.

start there, should fix it.

 

[harpo]

Thanks for the advice, I'll have it checked out It might time for a new one. I had her on the Battery Tender and at 28 F she fired right up and it is charging at 13.1 or better.

 

[RossKean]

Charging at 13.1 - is that the voltage while charging or the resting voltage after removing the charger? Float charge is something around 13.7V (depending on temperature). After resting for a few hours to deplete surface charge, a fully charged AGM should be in the range of 12.8V - depending on ambient temperature and the reference you read.

 

[NTXFJR]

Does it stay at 13.1 after running for it for a while?

 

[Harald]

Ditto on getting the battery tested first. My battery is fine, but I was also having slow start problems on a warmed up bike after stopping for fuel or stalling the engine. I finally got around to borrowing a DC clamp on ammeter to test my starter on my 07 FJR with 117,000 miles on it. The calibrated Fluke 336 meter with peak hold function tells me that the starter draws 184 !!!!! amps. This is probably about 100 amps more than the upper limit on acceptable current draw.

Coincidentally I have a FJR starter disassembled next to me as I type. I bought a used one and am doing an overhaul on this one before tackling the big job of pulling my old starter out for a swap. Supposedly this one worked fine, but I'm not taking any chances. Specs are in the FSM and most parts are available from Yamaha, with the exception of the very important shaft oil seal. There's been a couple posts on the forum where people have found the oil seal failed, allowing oil to get inside the starter and mix with the brush dust and then short out the commutator. I'll post up a part number after I take the seal to a local bearing supply house.

 

[08FJR4ME]

There are a several manufactures. Some will 175 CCA's Some will have 180 CCA's but the Yuasa will have 210 CCA's.

Been shopping myself, you get what you pay for as usual.

.02 Dave

 

[harpo]

Amen to getting what you pay for. I'm one of toughs guys that finds out the hard way, Just because it is the same size battery as what is in it don't mean its the right one for the bike you have. It takes a lot of amps to turn that big ass FJR engine. lol

 

[Donal]

Amen to getting what you pay for. I'm one of those guys that finds out the hard way, Just because it is the same size battery as what is in it don't mean its the right one for the bike you have. It takes a lot of amps to turn that big ass FJR engine. lol

Some men learn by watching,

Some men learn by listening,

Most men have to piss on the electric fence for themselves.............

 

[SSHANK42]

If battery is needed I would recommend a Yuasa. I have had the best luck with them than any other. Of course they usually more expensive but over the life of the battery it's something I willing to pay.