Colorrite Aerosol

[Keone]

Has anyone used Colorite's Aerosol.... I've been thinking of using it on a Shad 48 I just ordered.

it looks like they've matched the 07' color... https://www.colorrite.com/product_info.php?products_id=1005

I dont have all the equipment (compressor, HVLP spray gun) to paint it...

thanks

K

 

[slapnpop]

I can't speak to the color match, but otherwise it's not easy to get *great* results with aerosols.

You can do decent jobs, but factory looking paint is hard to do. Spray a heavier coat than you would expect, just before it starts to run. This will help with the gloss level. Work in a VERY clean environment. Use the clearcoat as well.

 

[Scab]

Slappy's right. Professional results are just not coming from an aerosol can. With that said, if you have determined this to be your only option, then try some of these things:

Buy some cheap spray cans and practice on something that doesn't matter, but is similar material. This will give you an idea of how much paint you can apply before the "run" and let you practice the "overlap."

Make sure everything is clean.

Buy a scotch-brite and scuff the entire surface. Paint doesn't stick because it's sticky, it needs scratches to adhere to.

If you are spraying over black, prime first or you will use a lot more paint than you need.

If colorite offers a primer, use that as it should be compatible with their paint.

If you prime, scotch-brite after completely dry.

Use a tack-cloth.

Keep in mind temperature changes everything. Avoid cold or hot.

Read and follow instructions on the application of the paint and the clear coat.

Make sure your bike and anything else you cherish is somewhere else. You would be amazed at how far overspray can travel when you don't want it to.

 

[exskibum]

Spraying a metallic color is mostly something for pros. Lighter color metallics are the worst, but even a dark one like the blues on our bikes will show dark streaks from the typical attempt to overlap the pattern. I used to be a spray painter (houses, industrial mine equipment, cabinets, furniture, etc.), and 30 some years ago, had a friend who painted autos (many for Harrah's Auto Museum) show me how to do a car in metallic from inside the booth with him. (I had once ruined a set of elevator doors with a gold metallic and that led to a discussion and his offer to show me how he did it.) It was basically a fogging, almost random strokes approach once he got the car wet in the area by area fashion he did it, and the car turned out beautifully. I've done bikes, and the problem isn't as pronounced, since you don't have large areas, but you do need someone who knows how to avoid that metallic banding thing. A metallic spray can seems like it'd be pretty hard to avoid this problem very succcessfully, since the pattern is small, mostly unadjustable, and the droplets relatively large. OTOH, I once painted a friend's MG with a gloss red (non-metallic) from cans he had and it came out pretty good for a temporary one summer fix up job.

BTW, MATCHING a metallic to existing painted panels seen from the same angle is another level of difficulty that results (with some paints) from the need to match the angles from which the original was sprayed in the factory -- I.E., metallics are a bitch!

 

[Scab]

If the lesson was from 30 years ago, then we are talking about different paint, prolly lacquer or old-technology enamel. "Fogging" with a urethane color coat can get you into trouble, "dry spray" (a texture like sandpaper) being the most common.

Agreed, metalics can be a real bitch. And after reviewing some of the prices on the web link above, this thing ain't gonna be real far from what a pro would charge when done. Add a mistake or two, and the price of repair will have you wishing you'd just sprung for the pro out of the gate.

I have heard that the '07 red may actually be a "tri-coat." Only rumor so far, I have not verified. If it is, the spray can may get close enough to get you by on a trunk, but it ain't gonna match. Period. Again, I have not verified the "tri-coat" system as yet.

 

[exskibum]

If the lesson was from 30 years ago, then we are talking about different paint, prolly lacquer or old-technology enamel. "Fogging" with a urethane color coat can get you into trouble, "dry spray" (a texture like sandpaper) being the most common.Agreed, metalics can be a real bitch. And after reviewing some of the prices on the web link above, this thing ain't gonna be real far from what a pro would charge when done. Add a mistake or two, and the price of repair will have you wishing you'd just sprung for the pro out of the gate.

I have heard that the '07 red may actually be a "tri-coat." Only rumor so far, I have not verified. If it is, the spray can may get close enough to get you by on a trunk, but it ain't gonna match. Period. Again, I have not verified the "tri-coat" system as yet.

Summer of 1975, and I'm pretty sure it was a polyurethane enamel. Certainly not a two or three coat paint system back then, though, and likely considerably different than today. Back then, some of the ester based and aircraft paints like Imron were thought to be the shit -- until they got downright dull instead of their promised long term wet sheen.

Not disagreeing about changes and current application methods, since my knowledge of the art is old, and we both agree about metallics being a bitch to get right. I was talking with the owner of the most expensive (arguably the best, also) shop around here about 5 years ago, and he was telling me that their painters actually attend classes from the automotive paint manufacturers -- it's become that much of an art to replicate what the factory is able to put on. That was the source of my comment about the angle from which something is sprayed matching the factory robots. Shoot a repaired front fender from a different angle than the unrepaired and unrepainted door, and in the right light, you can tell there's been a repaint.

But . . . dry spray is usually another problem altogether, typically requiring the painter either to get his fan closer or use a retarder. There always has been an art of matching the speed your paint goes off with the temperature and humidity in which you apply it. When I was doing furniture, aircraft instrument panel stuff, trophies and plaques in factory settings, I always had accelerants and retarders in addition to the usual thinners or reducers for the purpose of getting it right. Doing cabinetry installations in a new home or commercial restaurant or bar was much the same. My use of the word "fogging" may have been ambiguous -- Bob was definitely getting it wet and even, but it just wasn't a strict overlap like the usual application -- but again -- things may well have changed dramatically -- probably have.

 

[Keone]

Thanks folks... I have painted a little painting experience and could probably find all the parts to my old binks2000 (haven't used it in nearly 10 years) and borrow a compressor to try and get a better finish than a spray can... I guess I already knew this but was hoping for evidence of a miracle.... someone saying "Yeah the aerosol can paint job is an exact match and easy to do"....

I guess I"ll be looking for a paint shop that can do it...

Thanks

Keone