Pale Rider 07
Well-known member
Thanks Jay...this is good info to have. I guess I'll need to figure out how I'm going to use the trunk before deciding.
Dave
Dave
6.5!I do not really know what the exact angle is but I cut it free handed with a cut off wheel in a grinder. The spacers were 1.5" long and I basically cut from nothing to about a 1/8" to make the angle. If I were to guess it is more then 5 degrees but less than 15 so maybe around 10?? :dribble: If i were to do it again I would put the bike on the center stand and then block the front tire up in order to get the bike sitting level. I would then set a spacer in place and mark it with a level. This would be about the only way to get it exact, maybe I just got lucky but all my angles seem to match up perfectly.I assume the spacers you bought didn't already have that angle. Assuming not, what did you use to cut the angle, and what degree is it?I used zinc plated steel spacers that I bought at Lowe's and just spray painted them black. I really doubt that you could bend or crumple these things they are fairly short and very strong. I had originally thought of welding the spacers to the bottom of the plate but because of the zinc coating I decided not too, its not really a big deal that they are not welded but it would have been nicer to not have to line up the angle every time I mount it.
sweet! Thanks!I do not really know what the exact angle is but I cut it free handed with a cut off wheel in a grinder. The spacers were 1.5" long and I basically cut from nothing to about a 1/8" to make the angle. If I were to guess it is more then 5 degrees but less than 15 so maybe around 10?? :dribble: If i were to do it again I would put the bike on the center stand and then block the front tire up in order to get the bike sitting level. I would then set a spacer in place and mark it with a level. This would be about the only way to get it exact, maybe I just got lucky but all my angles seem to match up perfectly.I assume the spacers you bought didn't already have that angle. Assuming not, what did you use to cut the angle, and what degree is it?I used zinc plated steel spacers that I bought at Lowe's and just spray painted them black. I really doubt that you could bend or crumple these things they are fairly short and very strong. I had originally thought of welding the spacers to the bottom of the plate but because of the zinc coating I decided not too, its not really a big deal that they are not welded but it would have been nicer to not have to line up the angle every time I mount it.
Ive got this rack on my bike....
anyone know if this will have to be modified to install?
Hard to tell from the picture, but is there only one bolt holding the Sears plate on top of your other plate?The Sears top case came in today. Compared to the OEM Yamaha case, this thing is VERY FLIMSY! The plastic is thin and cheap, and the mounting plate seems too thin. The mouting hardware is very generic-cheap-universal. After looking at this thing for a while, and trying to figure out how to mount it to the aftermarket luggage rack I have on the FJR, decided to mount it directly to the rack with a bolt that is included in the kit and fits the (3) OEM holes. The plate is super solid being flat agains the luggage rack. Clipping the topcase into the mount, it seems as though it should stay put.
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I will only be using the topcase for multi day trips a few times a year, so hopefully it will last for a while without falling apart. Again, this thing seems very cheap, so buyer beware.
Nice looking setup you created there!Sears trunk (exactly the same as the JCWhitney trunk) mounted on a custom plate
I considered doing this also but worried about the "bumpers" rubbing the paint..... how has yours held up? I might have to reconsider this idea if you have had no problems with it.Nice looking setup you created there!Sears trunk (exactly the same as the JCWhitney trunk) mounted on a custom plate
I did something similar using the factory trunk mount plate in order to move it back a couple inches for more room for the wife and I on the bike. I was concerned about the excessive unsupported overhang of the rear part of the mount/trunk. This could especially be a problem under rapid acceleration where the wife is forced back against the trunk and subsequently putting heavy side loads on the spacers/mount bolts. I minimized this bolt side loading by adding some stiff rubber bumpers on the back of the mount plate so that it contacts the stock bike rack. Pictures are posted in THIS thread. Something to consider for anyone doing this type of mod.
I don't think the box itself is flimsy at all, sure the latch and lock mechanism for opening the trunk is a little cheesy but it works. As for saying the plastic is thin I don't know what you are looking at but its a double walled case and seems overall pretty sturdy to me.(the lid is only single wall). The mounting plate is very flimsy but that can be cured by bolting it to a thicker plate of steel like you have done. My biggest concern for you is the single bolt that is supposed to hold everything together. Unless I don't understand what you did, couldn't enough force be applied to the case and spin the entire case/plate around that single bolt ??Yes, only the one bolt, torqued down to the max, and very solid. The problem will be the flimsy construction of the topbox. The plastic is VERY thin. Also, the plate is very thin. I wouldnt mount this in any other way other than right down against my existing luggage rack. I am leaving this afternoon for the Texas hill country, and will be putting about 900 miles with the box in place..will report back as to how it worked.
Dayum!!! Is that Grade 6 cardboard???The Sears top case came in today. Compared to the OEM Yamaha case, this thing is VERY FLIMSY! The plastic is thin and cheap, and the mounting plate seems too thin.
I will only be using the topcase for multi day trips a few times a year, so hopefully it will last for a while without falling apart. Again, this thing seems very cheap, so buyer beware.
This trunk is the exact same as what JC Whitney sells for about $80. I have this same trunk and it serves my propose perfectly. It's water tight, stays firmly on, locks are secure and operate good and is easy to carry into a hotel room with all of your stuff inside. I went to my local marine shop and bought several stainless steel attachment brackets that are made to fit straps. Mounted four on top and two larger brackets on the front to hook bungee cords for when I strap something to the rear seat, with the top being used to strap a sleeping bag or other stuff like that.Ive got this rack on my bike....
anyone know if this will have to be modified to install?
It's been almost 2 years since I made that mount and it's still holding up great. My son (150 lbs) and my wife (more than my son, but I'm not saying her weight in the interest of self preservation) ride with me regularly and I often have weight in the trunk also. No signs of anything cracking or falling off. :yahoo:I considered doing this also but worried about the "bumpers" rubbing the paint..... how has yours held up? I might have to reconsider this idea if you have had no problems with it.
I actually considered one of those. The Bestem is even a touch nicer trunk than the Sears / JCW, IMO. I had one previously on my VFR (since sold-off). The downside to the Bestem trunk is that they reversed the latch mechanism as compared to the GIVI, (maybe to avoid lawsuits?) so it will not fit right on a GIVI monokey mount plate without some modification of the GIVI mount (mill a hole through it) which may weaken the latch tang.I've got the Bestem trunk, similar Givi knockoff. Been using it every day for over a year or more and its holding up well. I have the PCA rack and I drilled and screwed the trunk mount directly to the rack. I painted the ugly orange band, tho.
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