Donal
Well-known member
I always use pre-mixed, like Morris Super Cool Pre-Mixed Coolant available from the FJ/FJR Club for £5.50/litre. You will need to be a member to take advantage of their prices. Costs £7.74 direct from Morris...............
Coolant Change
- Thread starter Constant Mesh
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
MrZappo
Can we please go riding now ?
Prestone 50/50 silicate free every 2 years. Drain it as much as you can ...
Ride, rinse , repeat ... It is not this complicated ... Who cares about lubricative (is that a word ?) properties or corrosion properties. If you change on schedule it wont matter !!! Just look in the manual for the change interval and follow it ... I bet that the engineers are right about the recommended numbers ...
Ride, rinse , repeat ... It is not this complicated ... Who cares about lubricative (is that a word ?) properties or corrosion properties. If you change on schedule it wont matter !!! Just look in the manual for the change interval and follow it ... I bet that the engineers are right about the recommended numbers ...
I tried Engine Ice in my '03 FJR and reported here that it made little difference than the recommended standard stuff. At the cost-per-gallon of EI, it simply doesn't make sense to use it.
Just be sure it's silicate free and spec'd for aluminum engines.
Just be sure it's silicate free and spec'd for aluminum engines.
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wheatonFJR
...
Make sure you do the double secret ******** on the radiator...or your bike will blow up.
TomInPA
Well-known member
Especially if you're going to replace your good coolant with that orange Kool-Aid crap.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Just buy Honda Pre-Mix and skip all the drama. Hell, the Prestone Pre-Mix is probably good too, but I don't know about the silicate stuff in that.
TomInPA
Well-known member
The Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant is silicate free in both concentrate and pre-diluted packaging. The packaging states "Silicate, phosphate, borate and nitrite free". I've been using it for a couple years. The green Extended Life is available in most automotive and department stores, so no drama...just use it.
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The key truths were expressed here by a prior forum oracle, jestal, who has since moved on. Luckily he did not delete this post on his way out the door as it is exactly correct.
When the time period is up and you decide to replace the coolant, just drain what comes out from the drain hole, and then pour in some new 50/50 mix. Since you need to drain the coolant to do a valve check every 26k miles or so, this makes a dandy time to replenish the coolant with fresh since you've already done more than half of the work.
And sure, go ahead and use de-mineralized water in that mixture if it makes you feel better, or else use the premix for the convenience, which is already made up using mineral free, or at least soft, water. But there is no need to go through any sort of flushing or ******** rituals when changing the coolant.
Also the idea of using DexCool in an FJR is not a particularly grand one. Just stick with the regular stuff and your cooling system will outlive the rest of the bike.
When the time period is up and you decide to replace the coolant, just drain what comes out from the drain hole, and then pour in some new 50/50 mix. Since you need to drain the coolant to do a valve check every 26k miles or so, this makes a dandy time to replenish the coolant with fresh since you've already done more than half of the work.
And sure, go ahead and use de-mineralized water in that mixture if it makes you feel better, or else use the premix for the convenience, which is already made up using mineral free, or at least soft, water. But there is no need to go through any sort of flushing or ******** rituals when changing the coolant.
Also the idea of using DexCool in an FJR is not a particularly grand one. Just stick with the regular stuff and your cooling system will outlive the rest of the bike.
I did not know about the bleed valve. Over the years I have been changing coolant every year if high miles or every two years if not so many miles. I have been doing the double secret ******** (unknown to my wife). I simply fill the radiator to the top and the overflow tank to proper level. Run the bike till warmed up, shut it down and let it sit till cooled. if the overflow level has changed I add coolant. It has been my understanding if the system is filled to the top of the radiator and over flow tank is properly filled there would be no air in the system. I have never had a problem. Have I missed something?
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
:lol:
The only other thing that you have missed, Art, is that coolant doesn't wear out with mileage. You replace it to replenish the anti-corrosive properties, and that is purely a "time in contact with the cooling jacket" situation. You can just change it after X number of years regardless of the mileage.
I change it at the 26k valve checks because that works out to be about every other year (and convenient).
huron52
Well-known member
OH NO! Should I change the compress atmosphere in my tires too? It's got to lose something over time!
RossKean
Well-known member
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Your best option would be to replace the free 80% nitrogen in the tires with the expensive "nearly 100%" nitrogen.
It will make you feel superior, and consequently your bike will handle better.
(is snark allowed on Saturday too, because I slept late?)
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
What oil should you use in the compressor that supplies the air you use for the double ********?
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I will save some $$'s and change coolant every two years. Likewise, I will no longer do that distasteful ********!! Living in the S.F bay area, I have to be careful when using that term.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Back "in the day" we use to tell the girls "Suck, (her name)...suck! Blow is only an expression!"
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