Coolant Change
- Thread starter Constant Mesh
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Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Open the drain valve, remove the radiator cap. When it drains out, re-fill it.
Put the engine through a heat cycle then top-up as necessary.
Done!
Put the engine through a heat cycle then top-up as necessary.
Done!
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
You'll need access to the radiator cap on the LH side, just in front of the gas tank. Drain bolt is the hex head w/copper gasket on the water pump.
No other short-cuts, be careful and only loosen the rad cap as the coolant will SHOOT out of the drain hole. I generally have an assistant help when draining and working the rad cap to minimize mess potential!
Good luck.
--G
Uncle Hud
Just another blob of protoplasm using up your oxyg
Well, I thought it was funny.
If you're trying to learn something, try learning how to laugh at yourself.
Or learn how to get something out of the other 40-odd posts in his thread.
Or learn how to search the thousands of other threads on this Board, of which at least a few concern draining and filling coolant in FJRs.
Or learn that wfooshee opened up his engine and repaired his own transmission, and therefore knows better than anyone that the easiest way to maintain a bike is have the dealer do it.
Oh yeah, you should also learn that it's "too". <--- (good advice.)
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Chill everyone.
When someone posts to a public forum they can't demand what the content of the replies will be. Barring threadjacking or other rule violations, there's quite a bit of wiggle room.
Roll with it and have fun.
On the flip side of the same coin, don't destroy every thread with crazy shit that makes research impossible. There's a balance. We're all in this together.
When someone posts to a public forum they can't demand what the content of the replies will be. Barring threadjacking or other rule violations, there's quite a bit of wiggle room.
Roll with it and have fun.
On the flip side of the same coin, don't destroy every thread with crazy shit that makes research impossible. There's a balance. We're all in this together.
@J3 - I see that you have a 2013, so you are probably coming up on 24 months for the old coolant. In other words, now is aboput the right time to drain and replace it, so good on you for thinking about doing the job.
My only additional question would be how many miles do you have on the '13? My reason for asking is that you need to drain and refill the coolant as a part of doing a valve clearance che3ck, so if you are coming up on ~25k miles you may want to defer the coolant change until then. Same with spark plugs. I generally replace both of those (coolant and plugs) as a part of the 25k mile valve checks, as I usually do about 12-13k miles per year, so those valve checks also conveniently work out to be bi-annually.
My only additional question would be how many miles do you have on the '13? My reason for asking is that you need to drain and refill the coolant as a part of doing a valve clearance che3ck, so if you are coming up on ~25k miles you may want to defer the coolant change until then. Same with spark plugs. I generally replace both of those (coolant and plugs) as a part of the 25k mile valve checks, as I usually do about 12-13k miles per year, so those valve checks also conveniently work out to be bi-annually.
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bluesdog
Well-known member
Another real quick and easy method is to have a rock create a small hole in your radiator. Of course you'll then need to repair or replace the rad, but it's sure an easy way to drain the coolant.
This is only difficult if you have fitted a real metal radiator guard rather than relying on the plastic OEM one
This is only difficult if you have fitted a real metal radiator guard rather than relying on the plastic OEM one
eg23232
Well-known member
If you're going to change from ethylene glycol to propylene glycol, then you'll have to do a flush, probably a few times(demineralized water and white vinegar is good).
Ethylene glycol and propylene glycol don't mix well together. Why switch? Probably if you're only worried about toxicity. I have a Triumph Street Triple R that I use on the track and street, and most tracks won't allow regular coolant. It's just easier to have it and the FJR both have the same fluids.
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RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Agree don't overthink coolant changes. The Prestone or Honda premixes are appropriate. There is no compelling reason to switch out to Dexcool or some other fancy magic stuff.. Also, be aware the regular stuff is good for "lifetime" or 5 years. It's the corrosion inhibitors that get used up over time. While I personally would say don't go 5 years, it won't hurt to go 3 or 4. As Fred recommends, do your coolant change when you do the valve check. Extending the coolant change means someone doesn't have to dispose of it as often and you're saving the environment.
I swapped to Engine Ice on about my 2nd flush. After that, I switched back. There wasn't any benefit for the extreme increase in cost.
huron52
Well-known member
I haven't read this whole thread but I have the coolant changed at a valve check. Works for me. Oh as for a time frame about once every other year. By the way, all the other fluids are changed as well at the same time.
You Gen3 owners have noticed the coolant is now blue whereas the earlier Yamaha coolants were green. Is there any difference other than color? Any idea which supplier packages this stuff for Yamaha? The stealers charge a ridiculous price.
I topped off the coolant when I changed it and it goes down to between the lines on the reservoir tank when bike is cold but right after I ride it is up again to the top line, not sure why.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Fred's right (of course).
My three FJRs have always gone down to about 1/3 or 1/2 between the high and low marks. If I put any more in, it disappeared whilst riding. Once I found this out, I've never put any in between services, and it's never gone down further.
bluesdog
Well-known member
That reservoir tank is also sometimes called an expansion tank...
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
From page 6-17 of my 2003 owner's manual:
"The coolant level must be checked on a cold engine since the level varies with engine temperature."
Absolutely amazing the information you can find in those things......
Further scientific explanation for those who need it, assuming they are not trolls:
See, the coolant expands when it's hot, and escapes out the pressure cap into the reservoir tank. When the engine cools, the coolant contracts back to a lower volume, creating a vacuum in the coolant passages of the engine, and it sucks coolant out of the tank back into the engine.
Way back long time ago, they didn't have those expansion tanks, and coolant that expanded out the pressure cap was simply lost. You had to keep putting more in every so often, or your Model T would overheat.
(Wow. My second smarmy post on this page....... Oops.)
"The coolant level must be checked on a cold engine since the level varies with engine temperature."
Absolutely amazing the information you can find in those things......
Further scientific explanation for those who need it, assuming they are not trolls:
See, the coolant expands when it's hot, and escapes out the pressure cap into the reservoir tank. When the engine cools, the coolant contracts back to a lower volume, creating a vacuum in the coolant passages of the engine, and it sucks coolant out of the tank back into the engine.
Way back long time ago, they didn't have those expansion tanks, and coolant that expanded out the pressure cap was simply lost. You had to keep putting more in every so often, or your Model T would overheat.
(Wow. My second smarmy post on this page....... Oops.)
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
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