CPR8EA-9 plugs

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but I remember the engine is the same, a guy in the other forum use the old's CR8E in his Gen3

 
but I remember the engine is the same,
cc and some other things are the same, but much is different including top-end head changes in 2013, fuel injection, horsepower, etc. Covered and discussed many times on the forum.

a guy in the other forum use the old's CR8E in his Gen3
Maybe you should go ask that guy. Maybe he knows better than the manufacturer of the spark plugs that says that plugs only works to 2012. Personally, I'd believe the manufacturer. ;)

 
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the typical designation is as follows:

The letter combination (1-4) before the heat rating indicates the thread diameter, hexagon spanner width and the design.

The 5th position (number) stands for the heat rating.

The 6th letter identifies the thread length.

The 7th letter contains data about special spark plug construction features.

The 8th position, another number, codifies special electrode distances.

Old's ngk CR8E are soooo old...

maybe is the same plug....

 
They're not the same plug. The new 'independent coil on each plug' system is probably what led to the change in plugs. I'd stick with the OEM plug, or it's equivelant. I wouldn't start mixing up plug types that aren't specified. I'm not talking about iridium plugs.

Using the wrong plug probably won't really hurt anything, but may result in drivability issues like bad mileage, loss of power, incomplete fuel burn, etc...

 
I did a research today, the only difference seems to be the gap..from .031" to .036" of the newer.

a wider gap means a better combustion

 
I did a research today, the only difference seems to be the gap..from .031" to .036" of the newer.a wider gap means a better combustion
A wider gap means that you are using the wrong gap ...

 
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I did a research today, the only difference seems to be the gap..from .031" to .036" of the newer.a wider gap means a better combustion
Not true. The insulator also sticks out further on the new plug .

NG_2306_Fro.jpg
NG_1275_Fro.jpg


The change made in the 3rd Gen engine that requires the new plug type is the Coil On Plug ignition coils.

There is nothing to be gained on a 1st or 2nd Gen bike by putting the newer style plugs in there. You can buy the CR8E plugs for 3 bucks each, and they will last the 25k miles between valve checks with no problems. Why would you want to spend any more?

 
I did a research today, the only difference seems to be the gap..from .031" to .036" of the newer.a wider gap means a better combustion
Not true. The insulator also sticks out further on the new plug .

NG_2306_Fro.jpg
NG_1275_Fro.jpg


The change made in the 3rd Gen engine that requires the new plug type is the Coil On Plug ignition coils.

There is nothing to be gained on a 1st or 2nd Gen bike by putting the newer style plugs in there. You can buy the CR8E plugs for 3 bucks each, and they will last the 25k miles between valve checks with no problems. Why would you want to spend any more?
Silly lele.

You probably searched Google. You should have asked on this forum first.. lol

Happy Friday the 13th... :)

 
If you are after 10 horsepower, why didn't you just say so ? There are tons of ways to get that without installing the wrong plugs with the wrong gap.

You could:

1) Put in more slippery oil. More slipperier means more power. Olive oil is the slipperiest but makes your bike smell like dinner.

2) Only ride down hill. Each percent of grade = 5 hp. This becomes less effective above 90 percent.

3) Remove the air filter.

4) 2 coats of wax.

5) lose weight. Only works if you start out fat like me.

There are other ways but none are as effective as the above ones.

😋

 
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