Damn near collected another Bambi

[Fred W]

So now that we have all of these pesky ABS myths straightened out...

I feel a need to ask DonC why you want to have the brake lever power increased to the point that you activate the ABS with just one finger? This seems like a bad idea to me.

As has already been stated, once you reach ABS activation you are already past the maximum braking potential. In my mind that means that you will only be limiting the "feel" that you'll get over the full range of braking effort. You will not be stopping any faster, just engaging the maximum braking with less input effort. As long as you are able produce the maximum potential braking relatively easily, I am not understanding what possible gain there is to locking the wheel up with less hand effort.

If you want to increase that actual braking performance, and decrease total stopping distance, you'll want to work on delaying the onset of wheel lock and ABS engagement by improving the available traction between the tire and the road surface. Stickier (non multi-compound) tires will do that, as well as improved braking technique.

What I mean by improved technique is that you really want to smoothly and steadily increase the front brake application, giving enough time for weight transfer to the front end, which in turn increases the available tire to road surface traction. If you had front brakes that operated like a toggle switch the wheel would want to lock up before you have loaded the front suspension. I would fear that by amplifying the hydraulic power of the lever the way you state, this would be even more likely to happen especially in a panic braking situation.

PS - Congrats on avoiding your 2nd Bambi.

 

[odot]

I think you need to change your tires over to nitrogen to solve this problem.

 

[mcatrophy]

Lots of opinions on ABS.

For an authoritative report on ABS, try reading this.

My own take is it enables the average rider (me?) to push the braking on my motorcycle to its limit, and beyond, with the knowledge that I probably won't kill myself by locking up the front wheel.

I quote myself from a little trip report I did:

... Made it to the motorway, proceeded at normal speed, until I saw a car's hub-cap, rolling toward me in my lane, gently crossing from one side to the other, then blowing across again. ... Because I had no idea which way to avoid it ..., I braked. Hard. .... I have to say I was very impressed by the FJR's brakes, its ABS, and the way I held the braking on the verge of the ABS operating, all on a road surface that was damp with varying levels of grip.... Very forceful retardation and no drama.

...

In other words I was using the ABS to try to maintain the maximum braking the bike was capable of (just below the ABS threshold) as the road surface got more or less slippery, all the while with a safety-net if I over-braked.

I achieved the maximum braking that this rider was capable of on this road and on this bike. What more can you ask for?

Glad it wasn't a forest rat, though. They are even less predictable than an errant hub-cap, and much more likely to cause major damage

.

 

[101stpathfinder]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="tuggy" data-cid="1033810" data-time="1358629499"><p>

I've fitted a UK one of these on the flat underside below my headlights because on the road to my wife's work there have been 6 deer near misses.I guess it works as I haven't seen any deer.<a href='https://deerwhistle.com'>https://deerwhistle.com</a></p></blockquote>

Deer whistles tend to make deer run.

The direction of their movement is unknown.

IMO whistles are a problem NOT a solution.

Their reproductive systems make them run enough seasonally without encouraging them.

Maybe a longer hunting season OR ram mounted rifles for our bikes could work.

 

[Fred W]

Deer whistles tend to make deer run.The direction of their movement is unknown.

IMO whistles are a problem NOT a solution.

Their reproductive systems make them run enough seasonally without encouraging them.

Maybe a longer hunting season OR ram mounted rifles for our bikes could work.

I disagree, but only with your first point. The others seem right on the mark. Deer whistles do not do anything, except to fatten the wallets of the ne'r do wells that peddle the nonsensical items. You'd be much beter off investing that "$19.95 plus shipping and handling" on a "Chia Pet" or perhaps an Ove Glove. At least they "do" something, though maybe not what you are expecting. A deer whistle does nothing.

Why should it? Does someone actually believe that deer have been trained to shy away from whistles?

Rudolf: "Hey, Blitzen. Do you hear a faint whistke sound ovber the noise that car/bike/dumptruck is making?"

Blitzen: "Furckin' right Rudy! Let's get heck outta here!"

One of the "best" parts of this particular sham, is that the deer whistle doesn't actually make any noise. But that's OK, say the spammers (that nobody can detect, record or establish a single noise), 'cause those crazy deers have superior awesome hearing and it's their extra-ultra-sonic super-cala-fragilistic hearing that allows them (alone apparently) to perceive these sonic warnings. It must be programmed into their inner beings.

(sometimes) I find it hard to believe there are so many people around, even today in the age of ready internet research, who are so easily duped. But then... there is always Amsoil!

DISCLAIMER AND TECHNICAL CONCERNSSpecifications contained on this website are based on manufacturers' information and were believed accurate at the time of publication. Our recommendations apply to AMSOIL products only, as we cannot be responsible for products from other manufacturers. Always compare fluids and lubricants that were installed in the vehicle with those replacing them during service. Never install more fluid or lubricant than what is considered adequate according to gradients on dipstick or level of filler hole. Fill and drain locations are for reference only. Failure to perform adequate inspections or obtain proper resolution will limit or negate any liability toward AMSOIL INC. Models introduced midyear may not have the same specifications as those produced earlier.

If any discrepancies are noted, they can be simply reported to AMSOIL by clicking on the "Report A Problem" link. All discrepancies are reviewed and if you would like a response, please indicate so by placing your email address in the box provided on the form.

Portions of this Data Copyright: Autodata Limited ©2011. Licensed by Autodata Publications Inc.

DATA UPDATED 01/03/2013

 

[lonerider]

Right after I fitted the Hornet to my Suzuki, I was riding Skyline Dr. (overrun with deer). When I approached a doe grazing at the side of the road with the Hornet tweeting away, she just gave me a puzzled glance and went back to eating. I've found the best defense to be holding the horn button down as I cautiously approach them (when fortunate enough to spot them in time). The shrill sound of a motorcycle horn tends to annoy them in my experience and, if they perceive it as coming after them, they USUALLY run the other way. This, after dozens of close calls, is what I've found to work best. The ones that I've hit came out of no where so quickly there was no time to react at all.

 

[odot]

Deer whistles tend to make deer run.

(sometimes) I find it hard to believe there are so many people around, even today in the age of ready internet research, who are so easily duped. But then... there is always Amsoil!

DISCLAIMER AND TECHNICAL CONCERNSSpecifications contained on this website are based on manufacturers' information and were believed accurate at the time of publication. Our recommendations apply to AMSOIL products only, as we cannot be responsible for products from other manufacturers. Always compare fluids and lubricants that were installed in the vehicle with those replacing them during service. Never install more fluid or lubricant than what is considered adequate according to gradients on dipstick or level of filler hole. Fill and drain locations are for reference only. Failure to perform adequate inspections or obtain proper resolution will limit or negate any liability toward AMSOIL INC. Models introduced midyear may not have the same specifications as those produced earlier.

If any discrepancies are noted, they can be simply reported to AMSOIL by clicking on the "Report A Problem" link. All discrepancies are reviewed and if you would like a response, please indicate so by placing your email address in the box provided on the form.

Portions of this Data Copyright: Autodata Limited ©2011. Licensed by Autodata Publications Inc.

DATA UPDATED 01/03/2013

Amsoil makes the best deer whistle.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I work the occasional weekend at a buddies body shop and can't count the number of those things I've dug outa grills etc..

Always good for a grin when they are filled with Bambi's innards.

 

[Fred W]

Hmmm...

How long should one grille a deer whistle? I like mine medium rare.

 

[Knifemaker]

For deer I use two fingers........

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

Regarding stainless brake lines;

I have a 98 SuperHawk, that I bought new, and after 3 or 4 seasons, I rode a friends' newer bike, and realized how much my braking power (and feel) had degraded since new. Granted, I didn't do a scientific experiment, due to cost and complexity, but after installing a set of Galfer SS lines and SpeedBleeders, the old (like new, I mean) feeling and power from the brakes returned. How much of that was due to the new fluid, I can't say, but my brakes were back to "feeling" like new. Less lever travel, better linearity, and less lever effort. How much was due to the old rubber lines expanding, and how much was due to new fluid and bleeding remains a mystery.

I'll be installing SS lines and SpeedBleeders on the FJR in the future. Maybe I don't need to, but I'll feel better.

 

[bikemiser]

Deer whistles tend to make deer run.

(sometimes) I find it hard to believe there are so many people around, even today in the age of ready internet research, who are so easily duped. But then... there is always Amsoil!

DISCLAIMER AND TECHNICAL CONCERNSSpecifications contained on this website are based on manufacturers' information and were believed accurate at the time of publication. Our recommendations apply to AMSOIL products only, as we cannot be responsible for products from other manufacturers. Always compare fluids and lubricants that were installed in the vehicle with those replacing them during service. Never install more fluid or lubricant than what is considered adequate according to gradients on dipstick or level of filler hole. Fill and drain locations are for reference only. Failure to perform adequate inspections or obtain proper resolution will limit or negate any liability toward AMSOIL INC. Models introduced midyear may not have the same specifications as those produced earlier.

If any discrepancies are noted, they can be simply reported to AMSOIL by clicking on the "Report A Problem" link. All discrepancies are reviewed and if you would like a response, please indicate so by placing your email address in the box provided on the form.

Portions of this Data Copyright: Autodata Limited ©2011. Licensed by Autodata Publications Inc.

DATA UPDATED 01/03/2013

Amsoil makes the best deer whistle.

Whats wrong with Amsoil?

 

[Harald]

One possibility I haven't heard mention is finger position on the brake lever. I've been guilty of grabbing front brake with just pointer finger and maybe adding the middle finger and if I pull too far inward on the lever (closer to the pivot), there's not much mechanical advantage. End result is lots of effort required to utilize the braking force that's available. So I've had to train myself to grab further out on the lever for max braking with minimal finger effort. Maybe that's the only problem here?

 

[odot]

Bikemiser......Fred W thinks amsoil is snake oil.

 

[Fred W]

If you think that it is worth the money, then it is (to you).

 

[RadioHowie]

AMSOIL ain't snake oil, but it won't stop a Feejer worth a ****!

 

[Eric L]

it was 17 degrees on the ride home tonight when I clipped the damn deer. .. ... .. Luckily I was in the BMW and barely missed a second of 'All Things Considered'.... damn.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Hmmm...
How long should one grille a deer whistle? I like mine medium rare.

Don't grill 'em Fred.. Just remove the parts, say mid November.. The road salt preserves the meat so it's like stone age jerky..

 

[dcarver]

So now that we have all of these pesky ABS myths straightened out...

I feel a need to ask DonC why you want to have the brake lever power increased to the point that you activate the ABS with just one finger? This seems like a bad idea to me.

As has already been stated, once you reach ABS activation you are already past the maximum braking potential. In my mind that means that you will only be limiting the "feel" that you'll get over the full range of braking effort. You will not be stopping any faster, just engaging the maximum braking with less input effort. As long as you are able produce the maximum potential braking relatively easily, I am not understanding what possible gain there is to locking the wheel up with less hand effort.

If you want to increase that actual braking performance, and decrease total stopping distance, you'll want to work on delaying the onset of wheel lock and ABS engagement by improving the available traction between the tire and the road surface. Stickier (non multi-compound) tires will do that, as well as improved braking technique.

What I mean by improved technique is that you really want to smoothly and steadily increase the front brake application, giving enough time for weight transfer to the front end, which in turn increases the available tire to road surface traction. If you had front brakes that operated like a toggle switch the wheel would want to lock up before you have loaded the front suspension. I would fear that by amplifying the hydraulic power of the lever the way you state, this would be even more likely to happen especially in a panic braking situation.

PS - Congrats on avoiding your 2nd Bambi.

Time is so limited these days but wanted to respond -

I want aggressive brakes. My stupid and old yz426 shames the FJR. I rode an R1 and it shames the Feejer even more. I don't want trigger, all ot nothing or brakes, just want an easier pull to get to ABS point. I'm not a metallurgist or engineer, but it sees logical if you have a rotor made of material with higher friction coefficient (iron vs ss) and provide pads to match the CF parameter, then replace old and weak and swelling hoses with new fresh non expanding lines, and then reduce caliper stiction/friction with new seals and clean up, and then replace all fluid with fresh non h20 laden stuff?

All that *has* to help, yes?

I simply want to be able to hit ABS using one finger braking.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Don, you're comparing very light bikes to a very heavy bike. Nothing you ever do will make an FJR stop like an R1. You want to stop like an R1, ride an R1.

That's like trying to get my 4x4 truck to stop like a Corvette. It ain't gonna happen. Apples & Oranges and all that.