Damn near collected another Bambi

[wfooshee]

The R1 runs the same size tire as the FJR, so that rubber/road patch is pretty much the same. I don't really know what compound comes on the R1 but I'd guess it's a little stickier.

So it has the same or better grip at the front and weighs, what - 200 pounds less.

Yeah, the FJR is not gonna stop like that.

 

[dcarver]

I'll show you all how it's done.

 

[Fred W]

Time is so limited these days but wanted to respond -
I want aggressive brakes. My stupid and old yz426 shames the FJR. I rode an R1 and it shames the Feejer even more. I don't want trigger, all ot nothing or brakes, just want an easier pull to get to ABS point. I'm not a metallurgist or engineer, but it sees logical if you have a rotor made of material with higher friction coefficient (iron vs ss) and provide pads to match the CF parameter, then replace old and weak and swelling hoses with new fresh non expanding lines, and then reduce caliper stiction/friction with new seals and clean up, and then replace all fluid with fresh non h20 laden stuff?

All that *has* to help, yes?

I simply want to be able to hit ABS using one finger braking.

I fully understand what you are saying. And yes, surely you can improve the mechanical advantage from lever to wheel and make your goal happen. This may make you feel like you have more powerful brakes, but...

That increased mechanical advantage will not make your FJR stop any faster (ie in less distance) because the limiting factors to the FJR braking distance are the inertia of the bike (weight and speed) and the traction available between the tire and pavement. Unless you change one of those factors you will not be stopping any quicker.

 

[odot]

This is boring without diagrams and equations and pictures........you smart people suck moist *** cheese.

...at least put up a pie chart or sumpin?

 

[Fred W]

Alright... since you insist

 

[odot]

Now, cut and paste.

 

[dcarver]

Time is so limited these days but wanted to respond -
I want aggressive brakes. My stupid and old yz426 shames the FJR. I rode an R1 and it shames the Feejer even more. I don't want trigger, all ot nothing or brakes, just want an easier pull to get to ABS point. I'm not a metallurgist or engineer, but it sees logical if you have a rotor made of material with higher friction coefficient (iron vs ss) and provide pads to match the CF parameter, then replace old and weak and swelling hoses with new fresh non expanding lines, and then reduce caliper stiction/friction with new seals and clean up, and then replace all fluid with fresh non h20 laden stuff?

All that *has* to help, yes?

I simply want to be able to hit ABS using one finger braking.

I fully understand what you are saying. And yes, surely you can improve the mechanical advantage from lever to wheel and make your goal happen. This may make you feel like you have more powerful brakes, but...

That increased mechanical advantage will not make your FJR stop any faster (ie in less distance) because the limiting factors to the FJR braking distance are the inertia of the bike (weight and speed) and the traction available between the tire and pavement. Unless you change one of those factors you will not be stopping any quicker.

Agreed, to a point.

With my arthiritc hands it's taking too long to muster adequate lever pressure to get close or into ABS mode.

My thinking is if that ramp duration is shortened, so will overall braking distances.

 

[wfooshee]

Well, then you have another tradeoff. To reduce the effort you have to lengthen the lever travel. Smaller master cylinder piston will have greater force on the caliper pistons, but you have to move it farther to get enough fluid pumped. To reduce the travel you have to go the other way, which would increase the weight of the lever, the force required to squeeze the brake.

Or you could get a vacuum booster from somebody's car and build power brakes.

I'm not sure there's anything in between.....

You could get ultra-bite pads, but then your rotors would eat away, and the pads would need replacing every coupla months.

 

[HotRodZilla]

****...I forgot about your hands hurting.

In that case, half the work is already done for you. Just T off the rear brake line that feeds the front piston, and feed all the front pistons. Move that porportioning valve to the rear line only and poof...Your brakes all run off your rear pedal.

I bet you'd have to change the master cylinder at the rear, but sort of seriously, I bet it could be done...easily. Hell, leave the porportioning valve where it is and just use the pedal to assist the lever.

Of course you know I'm talking out my *** and mostly kidding, but I'm only mostly kidding.

 

[odot]

whoofshee...........pie chart..........

 

[Fred W]

'Zilla may be on to something here, but just got it bass ackwards.

If one were to re-plumb their 2nd Gen's brakes and eliminate the linked braking feature entirely, which let's face it, is of limited (if any) value, you should get about a 33% improvement on braking force from the front lever (going from 3 pairs of pads being used to 4) with no other changes and still enjoy stock longevity of pads and rotors.

It doesn't seem like it would be all that difficult to pull off, and you should be able to retain your ABS.

And Odot. It's not a pie chart, but here's a diagram of the Evolution of the Zombie for you:

 

[beemerdons]

Of course you know I'm talking out my ***.…

+1, Gunny! I know I'm really supposed to wait until Forum Dog Pile Friday for this, but I'll be riding in Mexico tomorrow with no internet so I had to do this today!

jes' sayin' and nuff' said!

 

[HotRodZilla]

"beemerdons"-author="HotRodZilla" Of course you know I'm talking out my ***.

+1, Gunny! I know I'm really supposed to wait until Forum Dog Pile Friday for this, but I'll be riding in Mexico tomorrow with no internet so I had to do this today!

jes' sayin' and nuff' said!

****** bag says what??