Dash lights out

[luvtoride]

I know that I've seen posts on this specific issue that I cannot seem to find. Not sure what my search issue is.

Anyhow, last night I noticed dash lights out... that is lights in tach, speedo & clock. All other indicators seem to work. I've noticed some bulbs out in the past... but this is complete outage. Before I go taking plastic off, do the tekkies on this site feel that it is likely a fuse or something of that nature?

If it makes any diiference it's an '04 105,000ish miles.

 

[FJReady]

FWIW, I've had a partial lights out in my speedometer dial. It was hard to read dial at night. But light has seemed to return to functionality. Can't explain and it isn't bad enough to me to warrant digging into instrument cluster to diagnose and fix. Yet. '05, & 110K ish miles. This is the only electrical gremlins I can recall having in 10+ years of happy FJR ownership.

 

[Intech]

I just read in another thread about Iggy having an issue with a rub on the harness in the nose after 100K. Hope that isn't the problem. Fuses are easy to check.

 

[Ignacio]

I've noticed some bulbs out in the past... but this is complete outage. Before I go taking plastic off, do the tekkies on this site feel that it is likely a fuse or something of that nature?
If it makes any diiference it's an '04 105,000ish miles.

I guess it might depend how many lights were burned in the past. There are 4 in there and if you were down to one...and it burned out....it would be the lights. I could imagine you could get used to a single light if it was either in the two center quartiles.

105,000 and have yet to replace them....could be. IIRC, I had two out at 70K (including one that would go away and come back intermittently like FJReady is talking about) before I upgraded to LED. (See link in my signature).

Now, if you had one out and three went away suddenly...that seems far less likely. Could be fuse next for checking. I can't remember off memory what else is on that circuit.

I'm guessing others like ionbeam have more diagnostic ideas.

After that, the worst thing is a possible harness rub thing. I haven't posted up yet because I really think I should have some pictures before I include it. But, suffice it to say I *think* Gen 1 owners all have potential wire harness rubbing issues after the one confirmed case I've had and other FJRs I've looked at. Engine bay, upper left around valve cover the wiring harness is tight and rubs against some metal.

 

[Fred W]

My guess is light bulbs and serendipity.

The power for the meter back lights is off the same fuse that goes to the front and rear running lights, so if you've got those then the fuse and wiring is good that far.

The front running lights and the meter back-light even share the same wire (sky blue) and pin through the multipin connector "B" underneath the tank, so the problem would have to be after that connector, between there and the meter assembly, for it to be a wiring issue. That section of wire doesn't flex or anything, which makes it less likely to be a broken wire.

 

[luvtoride]

Hmmm, I didn't check the running lights. I was riding in the dark, too. That would be just lovely. Guess I'll do further analysis soon. Them punks were working the night before when I was riding in the dark.

Matt, I wasn't aware that there were only 4 bulbs. I thought there was many more. Part of my tach was out. The rest of the display was lit before.

 

[Ignacio]

Matt, I wasn't aware that there were only 4 bulbs. I thought there was many more. Part of my tach was out. The rest of the display was lit before.

Yes, 4 are for lighting. Part of your tach suggests 1 of the 4 were out. Chances 3 burned out at the same time? Pretty slim IMO....leading to the less friendly diagnoses.

There are more lights in the dash area, but are intermittently used (e.g. turn signals, ***** lights, etc.) and don't burn out in my experience....at least no others did in the 170,000 on mine. I swapped just the 4 lights to LED.

You can kinda tell by this picture of the 4 zones each lit up by a different color. Left edge of tach, between tach and speedo, between speedo and fuel level, right side of trip meter.

 

[luvtoride]

I see what you are speaking of, Matt. Thanks for the visual. Much, much more help than some of the visuals that I get from some people Gonna take a closer look when I can. I expect something with this bike to give me issues. I guess she's been pretty good to me to have that many miles on her.

 

[Fred W]

I still think it is more likely just the bulbs went out than anything more sinister. I would highly recommend upgrading those light bulbs to LED per Matt's linked to thread. I did it on mine and it worked great. Never a lick of trouble after.

 

[luvtoride]

I'm going to do more analysis to bike when I get a chance. I haven't checked the running lights, yet. I'd much rather be changing a fuse than pulling the entire nose of the bike. Can I... yes... Do I want to... no. lol!

 

[BobbyBlue]

...i'm soon to put this to the test also.....its intermittent in the dash but the past 2 years if i touch the windshield switch, i lose all front lights

...so i needs to delve in soon....just 63K but the old boy has lived outside most of his life....led's it is...

Bobby

 

[Newfie Bullet]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=132168&hl=

 

[Ignacio]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=132168&hl=

Great reminder. And probably more likely and easier to check than my note about rubbing wiring harness, but after checking fuses. Those connectors haven't gotten less corroded over time.

 

[supertankerm60a3]

I had the same thing happen. The bulbs are about 6.00 each and are about the size of a grain of rice. The twist lock base is a permanent part of them. Getting your instrument panel out is a pain. 95% likely you just let all 4 bulbs burn out. Two words of advise:

1. Change them as soon as you loose 2.

2. Change all 4 at once, getting the panel out is a real pain that you do not want to repeat to save a few bucks.

 

[Fred W]

I had the same thing happen. The bulbs are about 6.00 each and are about the size of a grain of rice. The twist lock base is a permanent part of them. Getting your instrument panel out is a pain. 95% likely you just let all 4 bulbs burn out. Two words of advise:
1. Change them as soon as you loose 2.

2. Change all 4 at once, getting the panel out is a real pain that you do not want to repeat to save a few bucks.

3. Replace the 4 back lights with LEDs and never have to do that job again!

See the post that Ignacio linked to above for the details and where to buy them.

 

[luvtoride]

I checked my running lights. They work... so, the fuse isn't fubar'd. I find it extremely hard to believe that 3 light bulbs burnt out simultaneously when all 3 of them were working the night before. Any other suggestions??? Is there a relay for those lights? Just grasping @ straws, here. I'm thinking there must be some alternate reasoning. Really want to avoid taking it to the dealer... or taking that friggin' nose plastic apart if I don't have to.

 

[Ignacio]

Just grasping @ straws, here. I'm thinking there must be some alternate reasoning.

I dunno. You might try pushing on and/or tapping the speedometer assembly while the key is on in the hopes it might be the connector. If it intermittently lights up post #12 is likely and you'd at least have a better reason to take the nose off.

 

[Fred W]

No, no relays. The fact that the forward running lights are lit says the power is getting through the "B" Connector under the front of the tank. From there it splits and goes to the running lights and the instrument lights. There is a connector on the back of the instrument panel that the power has to pass through that may be corroded and not making good contact.

edit - I see Matt posted much the same idea.

 

[luvtoride]

Oh hell!

really... oh hell!

There is no way to get to that connector without taking the plastic completely apart? Even with a smaller handed individual???

I am so not looking forward to that job.