Datel Install

[ionbeam]

Curve ball -- Youse guys with low readings -- Next time your FJR is warmed up and running put your volt meter on the AC scale and measure across your battery. Let us know what you read.

If there is AC electrical noise on the power wires of the motorcycle the DC scale of the DMM will average the noise and return an artificially low voltage reading. Home picture of my FJR's electrical system, the noise is riding on top of the 14 VDC battery voltage causing my Datel to read 13.8 volts:

 

[LAF]

I just need to find where the R/R is located and I am going to measure it. Just cant find it in the FM. Sure on the schematic it is there, but I am trying to find the physical location and how best to get at it.

 

[ionbeam]

Stand on your head and look at the lower back of the engine, in the center (in the vicinity of the rear shock adjuster). The Gen II R/R has a shield over it.

 

[LAF]

Stand on your head and look at the lower back of the engine, in the center (in the vicinity of the rear shock adjuster). The Gen II R/R has a shield over it.

Got it!

Now 2 plugs there and one is what I need to measure, or I think I have seen to measure the other also?

I also assume (I hate that word) I need to rig pins out of the two wire to test on, as it needs to be connected, and bike running, for me to get the readings we are looking for?

Seems my shorty fender did me no favors here as I have to take it off to get a hand up through to get on those plugs.

I have some ACF-50, some brass brushes, q-tips, wire pipe cleaners, and various grit paper and paper pushers, to dress all connections.

Now I just need to keep searching for what I need to read on those connectors, and how to test them properly.

 

[ionbeam]

...Now 2 plugs there and one is what I need to measure...

... I need to rig pins out of the two wire to test on, as it needs to be connected, and bike running, for me to get the readings we are looking for?

...Now I just need to keep searching for what I need to read on those connectors, and how to test them properly.

One connector contains 3 white wires that come from the stator which we will leave alone for now. The other connector contains the #12 Red 'n Black wires that we do want.

The bike needs to be running for the voltage reading at the R/R. In page 1 of this thread you need to read about back-probing the connector. Measure the voltage at idle right at the R/R connector, if it is less than 14.2 volts THEN check it at 5k rpm, the peak output point of the stator. I suspect that you will be reading 14.4 volts.

 

[LAF]

Well in the share bliss of stupidity, and not comprehending what I was reading in any of the threads, here is what I did. I tried to slide a thin strand of wire in the + and - side, red and black wire, but could not get it to hold together once connecting it back together.

So I started the bike and pulled that plug off and measured voltage on it directly, it read 15.5.

I did clean both plugs well and washed all out with ACF-50.

Also checked FuzeBlock, snugged up all screws, removed all fuses and gave it a good bath in the ACF-50. Also it's relay.

Took it out for about 10 miles before the storm hits and it will hit 14.00 now but stays at 13.96-13.98.

Not sure if I accomplished anything test wise, but the R/R connections are pristine and measuring the prongs on the two wire connection on the R/R reads 15.5

Oh got my LED Moto Light Bulbs in and for me they REALLY rock!

 

[RadioHowie]

the R/R connections are pristine and measuring the prongs on the two wire connection on the R/R reads 15.5

15.5!!!

Oh Christ!!!

RUN...RUN LIKE HELL!!! It's gonna blow!!!

 

[LAF]

the R/R connections are pristine and measuring the prongs on the two wire connection on the R/R reads 15.5

15.5!!!

Oh Christ!!!

RUN...RUN LIKE HELL!!! It's gonna blow!!!

Nahh, I think I am supposed to have 15.4 there or close.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Nahh, I think I am supposed to have 15.4 there or close.

I thought it was 14.4?

 

[ionbeam]

Nahh, I think I am supposed to have 15.4 there or close.

I thought it was 14.4?

Having the output connector of the regulator disconnected from the electrical system the output of the R/R is totally unloaded (no current draw). The internal circuitry of the R/R is doing its job by clamping the output voltage to 15.5 volts or less. What we needed for useful information was the voltage at the Red 'n Black wire with the connector plugged in. LAF needs to make another try at measuring the voltage with the connector plugged in.

 

[LAF]

Nahh, I think I am supposed to have 15.4 there or close.

I thought it was 14.4?

Having the output connector of the regulator disconnected from the electrical system the output of the R/R is totally unloaded (no current draw). The internal circuitry of the R/R is doing its job by clamping the output voltage to 15.5 volts or less. What we needed for useful information was the voltage at the Red 'n Black wire with the connector plugged in. LAF needs to make another try at measuring the voltage with the connector plugged in.

Yep will have at it again and find a way to get a jumper in that connection. The way it closes makes it tough with a thin wire so not sure what I will do? I do know it wont be today. 60 here in PA and that means riding. I also need good weather so I can move on from the connection at the R/R, up, to see if I can find points further along. I know it starts with that reading at that plug and moves up from there. Also checking loss from the plug to the battery, and to me I need two people for that.

Once I get that plug reading I will get it posted.

 

[ionbeam]

In post #7 where back-probing the connector is discussed I mentioned using a clip lead which can be purchased at any Radio Shack. Clip one end of the lead on the back-probe pin and the other end on the meter lead. Clip on the back-probe first and it will then be easy to connect to the meter lead. This should also give you enough lead length to test voltage drops between the battery and the R/R. If you find 14.3 volts or greater on the R/R output and have 13.8 volts at the battery it is certain that the voltage drop is happening between the R/R terminals and the battery terminals. In most cases I have found the drop to happen at the terminals of the starter relay where the R/R wires connect and then leave the starter relay on the heavy battery cables. First check the output of the R/R, then we can discuss checking the voltage drops if necessary.

You can write to Skoot and see if he has any spare clip leads, I know that he had a big bag of them last spring (left over from testing his ABS).

 

[LAF]

In post #7 where back-probing the connector is discussed I mentioned using a clip lead which can be purchased at any Radio Shack. Clip one end of the lead on the back-probe pin and the other end on the meter lead. Clip on the back-probe first and it will then be easy to connect to the meter lead. This should also give you enough lead length to test voltage drops between the battery and the R/R. If you find 14.3 volts or greater on the R/R output and have 13.8 volts at the battery it is certain that the voltage drop is happening between the R/R terminals and the battery terminals. In most cases I have found the drop to happen at the terminals of the starter relay where the R/R wires connect and then leave the starter relay on the heavy battery cables. First check the output of the R/R, then we can discuss checking the voltage drops if necessary.

You can write to Skoot and see if he has any spare clip leads, I know that he had a big bag of them last spring (left over from testing his ABS).

Thank you ionbeam. I know I am dense and a pain in the *** but I am, and will, get this done with your help.

I can not thank you enough for your patience and time!

 

[wheatonFJR]

...I can not thank you enough for your patience and time!

Maybe purchasing and sending Alan his favorite libation would be a good start.

 

[ionbeam]

Maybe purchasing and sending Alan his favorite libation would be a good start.

Harrisburg to Stowe/NERDS -- 504 mi, 8 hours 57 minutes. Nothing like a personal delivery. I'm thinking rye or corn based C2H6O :lol:

 

[RossKean]

Maybe purchasing and sending Alan his favorite libation would be a good start.

Harrisburg to Stowe/NERDS -- 504 mi, 8 hours 57 minutes. Nothing like a personal delivery. I'm thinking rye or corn based C2H6O :lol:

So, is that ethanol or dimethyl ether? CH3-CH2-OH or CH3-O-CH3

Ross

 

[ionbeam]

So, is that ethanol or dimethyl ether? CH3-CH2-OH or CH3-O-CH3

How crude was it of me to use the empirical formula, I mean really :lol: So as not to bring down the quality of information on this Forum let me be clear, I'm looking for molecular CH3CH2OH and at no point should H2O in any state be combined. If we want to be explicit and spell out who is bonding with who :wub: I would use the alternative notation CH3-CH2-OH.

 

[wheatonFJR]

So, is that ethanol or dimethyl ether? CH3-CH2-OH or CH3-O-CH3

How crude was it of me to use the empirical formula, I mean really :lol: So as not to bring down the quality of information on this Forum let me be clear, I'm looking for molecular CH3CH2OH and at no point should H2O in any state be combined. If we want to be explicit and spell out who is bonding with who :wub: I would use the alternative notation CH3-CH2-OH.

Thanks for clearing that up...we were ALL wondering when you would.

 

[LAF]

OK well all I know so far and I figured I would post all the pics to help others or just to keep it less confusing to myself :blink:

On with the showed:

Where it lives unplugged.

Here are the plugs.

My "back jumper plugs"

I taped them a bit and pointed them the right way and this is what it read connected.

Here is the difference between my cheap 29.99 Craftsman and my 58.00 Datel.

Started

After high idle I ran it to 2000 RPM because of neighbors.

So all I know and have learned to this point.

Still not sure things are correct at those readings?

I am dense :huh:

 

[Constant Mesh]

Your meter's selector knob is turned to battery test. Maybe you've removed the knob and replaced it in error? You should select the 20 VDC scale for max accuracy.

Your black meter wire should probably be plugged into the meter's center jack labeled "COM". The meter jack on the left is probably used only for 10 amp current measurements.

Typically you use the center (COM) and right (Volt/Ohm/mAmp) jacks for most applications.