Datel

[nubfjr]

i don't get the idea of a switch for the voltmeter. I know the obvious reason is to shut the meter off after you turn the key off to the motor. But isn't it just plain easier to have it turn on and off automatically with the ignition switch? That's what I am planning to do anyway as i have a terminal strip already hooked up to the battery (through a relay).

BTW, what gauge wire do you use to hook up the voltmeter? 18 AWG?

thanks,

Rich

 

[madmike2]

i don't get the idea of a switch for the voltmeter. I know the obvious reason is to shut the meter off after you turn the key off to the motor.

Because wiring it direct to the battery post except for the one HD switch eliminates any possibility of voltage drop or loss. That way the volt meter is as close as possible to "true" voltage.

But isn't it just plain easier to have it turn on and off automatically with the ignition switch? That's what I am planning to do anyway as i have a terminal strip already hooked up to the battery (through a relay).

Yes, it would be easier but that means the volt meter would be on another circuit and limited to whatever wiring is also on that circuit, multiple conections, plus any effect the switching relay might have.

BTW, what gauge wire do you use to hook up the voltmeter? 18 AWG?
thanks,

Rich

I dunno? I have my passport wired direct using 14 ga. wire and have it set on "voltmeter".

 

[weekend rider]

Has anyone tried reading the directions for the correct wiring size???

They must put the directions in there for a reason???

 

[FJRay]

No directions came with mine and it took two weeks to get it. In that amount of time the directions could have been carved in stone. Wired it to the batt with a switch so I can look at it whether the bike in running or not.

 

[nubfjr]

Has anyone tried reading the directions for the correct wiring size???
They must put the directions in there for a reason???

mine came today but didn't have any directions with it. Possibly posted on their website, let me take a look.

 

[Fred W]

The gauge of the wire used for a stand-alone voltmeter is of very little significance. This is because voltmeters draw so little current that there is an insignificant voltage drop on the meter wiring even if it was an overly small gauge. The max current draw of a Datel meter is just 13ma (.013 amps).

Datel Voltmeter Datasheet

The wiring to the gauge should be selected based on the fuse rating of the circuit. Since the gauge manufacturer has no way of knowing the fuse rating of the circuit that you are installing the meter into they cannot possibly tell you what gauge wire to use. If you added a dedicated fuse to the wiring for just the voltmeter and used a small enough fuse you could get away with some very small wire.

Having the meter on a switch directly to the battery would enable checking the battery prior to turning the ignition on, but that gives limited diagnostic information. I have my Datel wired directly to the battery, but through my 30A relay that I use to switch my accessories. The relay is controlled by the running lights, so the meter only comes on with the ignition key. This is more convenient as it makes it impossible to forget to turn it off. However, when you turn on the ignition a lot of other electrical devices also get turned on, so the battery does get loaded down a bit. In other words, you'll never see that magic ~12.8V that says the battery is "fully charged".

But that doesn't mean the gauge can't tell you the same info. Once you learn what the normal voltage level is for the bike with the ignition on, you just use that as your "fully charged" level. For instance, I measured my battery voltage at the terminals with a digital Fluke multimeter and I get 12.8v with the key off and 12.1 volts with the key on. My Datel also shows 12.1 volts with the key on, so I know that 12.1 is a fully charged battery.

The voltage level with some nominal load, such as with the key on before starting, is actually a better indicator of battery health than the static measurement as the load will bleed off any surface charge on the battery, and reveal a battery with an increased internal resistance.

The main utility of the panel voltmeter is with the engine running, as that will show you the output of the alternator and its ability to recharge the battery.

Good source for Datel Panel Meters

 

[05fjrBluedevil]

I wired direct and placed it here, always visible, It is nice walking up to the bike and knowing what it is reading.

 

[RonBB]

Nice writeup Fred W. Totally agree. Ron

 

[Fred W]

I wired direct and placed it here, always visible, It is nice walking up to the bike and knowing what it is reading.

My only concern would be the constant drain on the battery. But considering that drain is only 13ma, perhaps that is not a significant concern. I know that the "standby" drain on many auto batteries is ~12-15ma, but they do have considerably more capacity than a little cycle battery.

OTOH, as long as you are riding regularly, or using a battery tender, the drain would likely be of no consequence. So maybe my paranoia over shutting off the meter is ill-founded.

But I still like the red better than the (more expensive) blue.

 

[brazos parker]

The wiring to the gauge should be selected based on the fuse rating of the circuit. Since the gauge manufacturer has no way of knowing the fuse rating of the circuit that you are installing the meter into they cannot possibly tell you what gauge wire to use. If you added a dedicated fuse to the wiring for just the voltmeter and used a small enough fuse you could get away with some very small wire.

I'm planning to wire my Datel directly to the battery in a circuit by itself using 18 or 16 ga wire, considering the low draw of the Datel. I had not planned to add a dedicated fuse to the circuit...is a dedicated fuse necessary?

If this is a really dumb question, pls take pity on the electrically-challenged source.

thanx.

 

[Fred W]

The wiring to the gauge should be selected based on the fuse rating of the circuit. Since the gauge manufacturer has no way of knowing the fuse rating of the circuit that you are installing the meter into they cannot possibly tell you what gauge wire to use. If you added a dedicated fuse to the wiring for just the voltmeter and used a small enough fuse you could get away with some very small wire.

I'm planning to wire my Datel directly to the battery in a circuit by itself using 18 or 16 ga wire, considering the low draw of the Datel. I had not planned to add a dedicated fuse to the circuit...is a dedicated fuse necessary?

If this is a really dumb question, pls take pity on the electrically-challenged source.

thanx.

Yes. You definitely want to fuse the circuit if you are running it right off the battery because otherwise, if you get a short from the power wire to ground (like if it wore through the insulation) it will start a fire.

 

[RonBB]

I'm planning to wire my Datel directly to the battery in a circuit by itself using 18 or 16 ga wire, considering the low draw of the Datel. I had not planned to add a dedicated fuse to the circuit...is a dedicated fuse necessary?

Think red hot wire inside tupperware without the fuse if it shorts out-Also think small fuse if all that is on the circuit is the Datel. I would probably go with either AWG #16 or #18 wire with perhaps a 1 amp fuse. The wire size is more than adequate for the Datel load alone and voltage drop (voltage drop is proportional to amps carried times circuit length) but that size also does provide some additional physical strength. The weak link in this rather simple circuit is the wire & a correctly sized fuse needs to be there to protect it.

 

[brazos parker]

OK, I'm convinced. I'll either wire an in-line fuse or wire it thru my Blue Sea fuse block.

But, I have one other question abt the "simple" circuit...wouldn't the Datel itself act as a fuse in case of a short?

 

[wfooshee]

Nope. If the wire on the positive battery terminal shorts to ground, it happens before the Datel. You have gobs of amps going through a 14 or 18 gauge wire, making it very very hot. If you were lucky, the wire itself would sever and become its own fuse, but not before other bad things had time to happen.

A short on the other side of the Datel is irrelevant. That's already grounded.

Which points out the need to put the fuse physically close to the battery, not physically close to the Datel.

 

[nubfjr]

i cant' remember where i saw it. The relay for this install is typically a single pole double throw (meaning it has 4 prongs if i'm not mistaken). On one of the installs i saw i think i saw a double pole single throw relay where there was 5 prongs if i'm not mistaken. I'd like to find one of those and replace my 4 prong with a 5 so i can have an extra connection for the datel voltmeter. Anyone know of a radio shack p/n off hand?

thanks,

Rich

 

[Fred W]

i cant' remember where i saw it. The relay for this install is typically a single pole double throw (meaning it has 4 prongs if i'm not mistaken). On one of the installs i saw i think i saw a double pole single throw relay where there was 5 prongs if i'm not mistaken. I'd like to find one of those and replace my 4 prong with a 5 so i can have an extra connection for the datel voltmeter. Anyone know of a radio shack p/n off hand?
thanks,

Rich

Actually, all you need is a single pole, single throw (spst) if you can find one. But you are correct that the typical is SPDT and you just don't use the NC contact.

 

[nubfjr]

Actually, all you need is a single pole, single throw (spst) if you can find one. But you are correct that the typical is SPDT and you just don't use the NC contact.

i have one on the bike already (for a terminal strip similar to the setup documented by warchild on FJRtech.com), i didn't want to hook up 2 relays as there isn't much room and not sure how to connect them unless i go directly off the battery for the 2nd relay. Just a lot more wires to deal with and would rather just make 2 new wires with this SPDT relay.

 

[Fred W]

Actually, all you need is a single pole, single throw (spst) if you can find one. But you are correct that the typical is SPDT and you just don't use the NC contact.

i have one on the bike already (for a terminal strip similar to the setup documented by warchild on FJRtech.com), i didn't want to hook up 2 relays as there isn't much room and not sure how to connect them unless i go directly off the battery for the 2nd relay. Just a lot more wires to deal with and would rather just make 2 new wires with this SPDT relay.

If you already have a relay, all you need to do it tap off of the existing switched 12V power on the output side of that relay.

There is really no need to have a set of dedicated relay contacts for the panel meter.

The only voltage "loss" in your meter reading at that electrical point would only be the small amount dropped on the relay contacts themselves. When there is no accessory load, knowing that the meter draws very little current, the voltage will be essentially the same as at the battery. When you do crank up the accessories any contact resistance will result in a small amount of voltage drop across the contacts. But that is minuscule (unless the relay is defective) compared to the voltage drop at the battery terminals due to the internal resistance of the battery.

Once the engine is running, the meter will indicate the charging voltage being supplied to the battery terminals by the alternator minus any tiny drop in voltage across the contacts. So, you will get a pretty accurate reading of the available voltage.

 

[05fjrBluedevil]

I purchased some 5 prong relays and have yet to use them, but look forward to ripping the plastic off my baby over the winter.

I never noticed the datel to drop the voltage, but i have noticed that my battery over two years+ is due for replacment, move becasue my trickle is broken and since it is so cold out it hovers just below 12 on the reading, so as i tried to start it this morning, 9 degrees out there in my garage, it just wasn't gong to happen.

Guess I need to purchase another trickle charger.

BTW I like the blue better!!!!! Blue bike, Blue datel! Now on an 06 if the digs are red then the red would look better,

Hey hope everyone had a nice new years....

Mike

 

[tallyho911]

I wired direct and placed it here, always visible, It is nice walking up to the bike and knowing what it is reading.

Great idea....

Going to order one, but how did you mount volt meter into the panel?

Did you use the Bezel + gasket and screw it on from the back side

or was an adhesive applied to keep it in place or does it just snaps in place?