Dead Battery

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fjr turbine

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Okay, ladies and gentlemen, since I couldn't remember my previous log-in stuff,

I had to start over, and no comments from the peanut galler(y/ies), please.

This is embarrasing enough as it is, but here goes:

Due to circumstances beyond my control, I have managed to not use my bike

for almost six weeks.

Unfortunately, my battery is (almost) dead. It turns over and then stops.

Can I push start the bike with no ill effects (is it even possible?), can I jump

the battery with my car battery, should I buy a battery minder/tender (whatever)

to trickle charge my battery, or is there another way? I want to ride, but I

can't (stupid stupid me!).

(It really sucks not being able to ride.)

Thanks for any help...

Jim

 
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Several have reported they successfully push started their dead FJR. I haven't tried this myself.

I have used a *regular* charger once or twice, at the lowest setting, for no more than a couple hours and got a good start. I kept close by and noted any excessive warmth being generated. Started fine, then I rode the dogshit out of it to get a good charge.

Then got a battery tender and never worry again. (BatteryMinder, actually.)

BatteryMinder dealer Not the cheapest out there, but works well.

An overnight charge on a 'tender should do it, then 'tend' anytime to keep it topped up.

 
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Get a freaking battery charger!!!!!!

I bet the great sum of $40 or so doesn't seem all that expensive right now, does it?

At least I am not charging you for my oh-so-wise advice, delivered in such a non-critical manner. :lol:

 
Thanks to one and all, and I just wanted to extend a special thank

you to ScooterG for his "oh-so-wise" advice".

A BatteryMinder is definitely forthcoming.

Again, thanks guys...much appreciated!

Jim

 
Hi guys!

I agree with all the above advise, get a charger, but I feel strongly compelled to add some cautions to help avoid some expensive repairs.

*First...DO NOT try jump starting with your car battery!

One little arc at the cable ends COULD terminally damage any of the on board computers either on the bike or your late model caged vehicle. It's just a VERY bad practice on today's complex units. It seems especially true of vehicles with Mitsubishi engine control units. Guess what? That's whats on your 03 to 05 FJR. I understand the 06s have changed but nothing confirmed yet. NOT jump starting still applies.

*Second...push starting your bike and letting the alternator try to charge a dead battery is VERY hard on the bikes charging system and COULD shorten it's life.

*Third...After charging your battery fully it really should be load tested to make sure it is still in acceptable condition. Most auto parts stores will load test your battery for free if you don't have the equipment on hand. You CAN also check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell to look for impending problems but load testing is more conclusive on a battery's general condition.

A battery WILL eventually over it's lifetime develop a "dead" or shorted cell or two and not only become unreliable at the worst possible times, say, like in traffic at a light, but will also make the charging system work much harder to keep the battery charged thus overloading and possibly overheating the alternator and regulator circuits.

*Forth...Trust me on this...this sort of thing is what I deal with for a living for over 32 years now and I put in 8 years as a Mitsu tech.

*Fifth...don't say "never trust a guy who says trust me"... I'm not going to waste my or your time sitting here BS-ing anyone. Just want to help educate. Besides, I will need you guys to help me with answers when I eventually get my 07 FJR. :D

RogerB

I wonder where RogerA and RogerC rode off to?

 
Welp, this is going to be an embarrassing ?, We have generally mild weather year round down here in south MS, but we had a cold front come through yesterday and I probably wont ride for a week or so until it passes. On the advice I received here from you guys I bought a tender 1.25 amp and I want to hook it up. I don't want to "hijack" this thread, but I thought since it is a battery subject line I would ask this ? Where is the battery? how do I access it? I have only owned the bike a couple months and haven't taken the time, nor had the need to locate it. I do not see anything on FJRTec nor Mark Johnson's site concerning battery access or location. I would like to put the tender on tonight as the low in the morning is suppose to be in the low 20's. I will sit back and await the abuse! Thanx-Bruce :blink:

 
Welp, this is going to be an embarrassing ?, We have generally mild weather year round down here in south MS, but we had a cold front come through yesterday and I probably wont ride for a week or so until it passes. On the advice I received here from you guys I bought a tender 1.25 amp and I want to hook it up. I don't want to "hijack" this thread, but I thought since it is a battery subject line I would ask this ? Where is the battery? how do I access it? I have only owned the bike a couple months and haven't taken the time, nor had the need to locate it. I do not see anything on FJRTec nor Mark Johnson's site concerning battery access or location. I would like to put the tender on tonight as the low in the morning is suppose to be in the low 20's. I will sit back and await the abuse! Thanx-Bruce :blink:
It's under panel C, right side up front. A little help here-

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/dashpanels.html

You'll find a wealth of info on this site, just navigate around a bit.

 
I've bump started mine a couple of times.

Once when I left the headlight on.

Once at the EOM. My battery started a slow death when the bike was exactly 3 years old, to the month.

Find any small down hill slope.

Hop on, get it rolling and momentarally pop the clutch to rotate the engine.

She'll fire right up. ;)

 
should I disconnect and remove the battery before I connect the tender or can I connect it to it as is?

 
*First...DO NOT try jump starting with your car battery!
Hey Mr. RepairMan. You sound as if you know what you are talking about. Do you agree or disagree with the following?

I have a jump start device from Sam's that has a 12V, 450 amp output I carry in my pick up. You hook it up to the battery before you turn it on. That should eliminate any damaging spark to your delicate electronics.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi guys!
I agree with all the above advise, get a charger, but I feel strongly compelled to add some cautions to help avoid some expensive repairs.

*First...DO NOT try jump starting with your car battery!

One little arc at the cable ends COULD terminally damage any of the on board computers either on the bike or your late model caged vehicle. It's just a VERY bad practice on today's complex units. It seems especially true of vehicles with Mitsubishi engine control units. Guess what? That's whats on your 03 to 05 FJR. I understand the 06s have changed but nothing confirmed yet. NOT jump starting still applies.

*Second...push starting your bike and letting the alternator try to charge a dead battery is VERY hard on the bikes charging system and COULD shorten it's life.

*Third...After charging your battery fully it really should be load tested to make sure it is still in acceptable condition.  Most auto parts stores will load test your battery for free if you don't have the equipment on hand. You CAN also check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell to look for impending problems but load testing is more conclusive on a battery's general condition.

A battery WILL eventually over it's lifetime develop a "dead" or shorted cell or two and not only become unreliable at the worst possible times, say, like in traffic at a light, but will also make the charging system work much harder to keep the battery charged thus overloading and possibly overheating the alternator and regulator circuits.

*Forth...Trust me on this...this sort of thing is what I deal with for a living for over 32 years now and I put in 8 years as a Mitsu tech.

*Fifth...don't say "never trust a guy who says trust me"... I'm not going to waste my or your time sitting here BS-ing anyone. Just want to help educate. Besides, I will need you guys to help me with answers when I eventually get my 07 FJR. :D

RogerB

I wonder where RogerA and RogerC rode off to?
I'm probably going to regret this, but here goes. I'm a 22 year Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician, and ASE Advanced level Master Tech. Electrical systems are one of my specialties, so here goes.

First, If this were truly an issue, you'd be at the exact same risk just by connecting a freshly charged new bike battery. Having the car RUNNING at the time would be a very bad idea, since a car alternator generates WAAAY more amperage than a bike was ever made to deal with. Hooking up the jumper cables backwards would also be a very bad idea. 12 volts is 12 volts, no matter where it comes from, and a battery will only deliver as much amperage as it's asked for.

Second, while I wouldn't recommend making a habit of push starting the bike, if my choices are that, or be stranded, guess what I'm gonna do.

Third, Most "auto" parts stores aren't likely to have a tester capable of accurately testing such a low AH rated battery, although there are alot of "smart" battery testers on the market now that can do the job, but you've gotta find somebody that has one. And since most new batteries are sealed, as is the case on the FJR, checking the level or specific gravity of the electrolyte isn't possible.

I won't bother with the fourth (not forth) or fifth, but I've known plenty of long-time wrenches that I wouldn't let service my lawn mower. I don't know you, so I can't speak for your overall mechanical or diagnostic abilities, but I believe the bulk of the info you just gave here is incorrect. Of course I could be full of shit, but that's a whole other issue. B)

 
Popping a bike battery onto one of those "booster" car chargers is as bad (or worse) an idea than hooking the bike's battery up to a car when it's running. It's too many amps for what a bike was designed to handle.

 
It seems to me that there are some here that must believe that just because the amps are available they will come squirting out of the battery into the electronics of the cycle. You could safely use a 1,000,000 amp battery (if you could find one) on your bike as long as it is 12V. Amperage is determined by the resistance of the circuit of the bike, not the capability of the battery.

 
Dangerous DaveI've known plenty of long-time wrenches that I wouldn't let service my lawn mower. Of course I could be full of shit, but that's a whole other issue. B)

DD, I didn't mean to sound like I was soliciting my services to repair your mower.

I respect your opinion but feel it's only fair to share my experience with the good folks here who are looking for a little helpful information.

I try to be very careful in choosing my words when explaining probable solutions to possible problems, all in an effort to prevent damage to someones equipment or injury to their person.

That's what I get for sticking my neck out to take time to try to help people. Someone has to come along and cut my head off. I'm not the least offended because I realize that you just can not have an intelligent dialog with some people. I hope you are not one of those people.

Now lets get back to the issue at hand.

RogerB
 
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