BentAero
Well-known member
Completed the installations of my heat-troller and heated grips. The replaceble panel seemed like a perfect place to put the controls...
Did I do good?
- Thread starter BentAero
- Start date
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Nice Rumble
Well-known member
By the looks of things you done good. Where did you tap into a switched power source? I plan on adding heated grips.
Bull
Well-known member
that's the tidiest mounting yet - you've done a beautiful job.
I especially like the hi/lo/off switch too - where did you get that from? It's much neater than the factory knob.
so please - post more details. It looks like you've found a way to improve on the (very expensive) stocker kit. Inquiring minds need to know!
cheers - Bull
BentAero
Well-known member
The round knob and led light are for the Heat Troller jacket control. https://www.warmnsafe.com/motorcycle_coax.p...01937882cbd2d1b .
The hi/low switch is from a Symtec heated grip kit that I bought from Cal Sport Touring. I had a set of these on my ST that served me fine for nearly 35K miles w/ no problems, so I didn't hesitate to get another set. $27. for the whole kit! https://www.casporttouring.com/store/mercha...ode=dual_star_e
The hi/low switch is from a Symtec heated grip kit that I bought from Cal Sport Touring. I had a set of these on my ST that served me fine for nearly 35K miles w/ no problems, so I didn't hesitate to get another set. $27. for the whole kit! https://www.casporttouring.com/store/mercha...ode=dual_star_e
mdisher
formerly Renegade, get used to it.
Very well done... :yahoo:
How are those "cheap' heated grips, and where/how did you tie to switched 12v?
I'd hate to bump that and find a dead battery later.
-MD
How are those "cheap' heated grips, and where/how did you tie to switched 12v?
I'd hate to bump that and find a dead battery later.
-MD
Bull
Well-known member
LMFAO!!!! 27 bucks! - holy schmoly man. The Yammie kit up here in Canada costs what you'd expect to pay for a short holiday to Mexico with the wife and kids.
I'm ordering a set tonight and will have them on asap. (grips that is - I already have a set of wife-and-kids). I'll most likely match them up with some Beemer tour grips.
Thanks for the heads-up mate! - Bull
BentAero
Well-known member
As mentioned above, I had a set of the exact same ones on my ST1300 for nearly 35K miles, and they never missed a beat. If they had, big deal. They're $27.! I can buy a whole stack of $27 kits for the price of one OEM optional heated grip. I hate to say it, but this is one of the very few truly underpriced items in all of motorcycle farkledom.
From the battery, wired in an inline fuse holder w/ 25 amp fuse, then to 30 amp relay, then to Blue Sea power distribution box. Doing it this way not only makes it *clean*, but everything (except my GPS, which I wanted *hot* all the time) is routed thru the Blue Sea, so it's only hot when the ignition is turned on.
I found the directions/idea in the FJRTech archives.
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Nice Rumble
Well-known member
I thought the Blue Sea distribution block had a built in relay. No? The reason I ask is I just bought one and need to install it this spring. I see the barrier strip tutorial in the FJR Tech and that one does need a relay.
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BentAero
Well-known member
If you have a Blue Sea #5025, it does NOT have a relay in it/with it. You need to choose whether you want to wire it up direct to the battery (every accy will be hot all the time); or wire it behind a relay so it only has power when the bike is running (i.e ignition on)
Go here and scroll down to post #4: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=15304 Read thru this entire thread, as it has some VERY good info.
Also here: https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=25
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Nice Rumble
Well-known member
Mine is the 5025 so that was good info. I will hook it up as you did then with a fuse and relay. Thanks for the links. Lots of helpful information on this topic.
Nice Rumble
Well-known member
BentAero-have you found a proper mounting location for the Blue Sea? Under the seat or up front under a panel?
HIGHLANDER
naewittyshitepostedeere
BentAero
Well-known member
Under the pillion seat, there are two rubber stretchy-straps. Push the one that is "side-to-side" off the back out of the way. Disconnect the "front-to-rear" strap on the end toward the tank, place box on the plastic 'bridge', then reconnect the front-to-rear strap over the Blue Sea box. It's almost like it was made for it.
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Nice Rumble
Well-known member
Under the pillion seat, there are two rubber stretchy-straps. Push the one that is "side-to-side" off the back out of the way. Disconnect the "front-to-rear" strap on the end toward the tank, place box on the plastic 'bridge', then reconnect the front-to-rear strap over the Blue Sea box. It's almost like it was made for it.
Cool! Thanks.
Using TwoDog's photo
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dirttracker30
Well-known member
Under the pillion seat, there are two rubber stretchy-straps. Push the one that is "side-to-side" off the back out of the way. Disconnect the "front-to-rear" strap on the end toward the tank, place box on the plastic 'bridge', then reconnect the front-to-rear strap over the Blue Sea box. It's almost like it was made for it.
Bent I put mine in the same place.The only other thing I did was to cut a couple of narrow strips of velcro and stuck on the bridge and the bottom of the blue sea to keep it from wiggling around if I was to hit a harsh bump etc.
DRHall
Well-known member
Your install looks great BentAero! I ordered a set for my '06 and will install them as soon as I get my G2 throttle tube.
The instructions say to put a high temp 2 part epoxy over the heater panels before installing the grips, did you do this? Is it necessary?
BentAero
Well-known member
Your install looks great BentAero! I ordered a set for my '06 and will install them as soon as I get my G2 throttle tube.
The instructions say to put a high temp 2 part epoxy over the heater panels before installing the grips, did you do this? Is it necessary?
This time I did not, and on Monday I did over 200 miles w/ the heaters turned on the whole time and no grip slip. On my ST, I did put the 2-part epoxy over the grid/under the grip, and the heat of the grid caused the grip to slip WHILE the bar was being heated. When I finally changed the grips, I installed them w/o the epoxy and they stuck just fine. So this time, (FJR) I did NOT use the epoxy.
The heat grid has an adhesive backing. Clean the throttle tube and left handlebar w/ some alcohol (no! not that kind, the solvent kind!) and install the "sticker" after you've made a "dry" run. Cover all the bodywork/tank area w/ and old towel. Get you SO's elcheapo hair spray (white Rain etc; the cheaper the better, [.99 per can] as the cheap stuff has lots of quick-drying solvent.) and douse the inside of the grip -and - the tube/handlebar. QUICKLY slide the grip on. Let sit for a while to dry, then enjoy.
I've used the hair spray trick for 20 years. For the life a' me, I don't know why I thought the epoxy would work, or, why they recommend it.
The instructions say to put a high temp 2 part epoxy over the heater panels before installing the grips, did you do this? Is it necessary?
This time I did not, and on Monday I did over 200 miles w/ the heaters turned on the whole time and no grip slip. On my ST, I did put the 2-part epoxy over the grid/under the grip, and the heat of the grid caused the grip to slip WHILE the bar was being heated. When I finally changed the grips, I installed them w/o the epoxy and they stuck just fine. So this time, (FJR) I did NOT use the epoxy.
The heat grid has an adhesive backing. Clean the throttle tube and left handlebar w/ some alcohol (no! not that kind, the solvent kind!) and install the "sticker" after you've made a "dry" run. Cover all the bodywork/tank area w/ and old towel. Get you SO's elcheapo hair spray (white Rain etc; the cheaper the better, [.99 per can] as the cheap stuff has lots of quick-drying solvent.) and douse the inside of the grip -and - the tube/handlebar. QUICKLY slide the grip on. Let sit for a while to dry, then enjoy.
I've used the hair spray trick for 20 years. For the life a' me, I don't know why I thought the epoxy would work, or, why they recommend it.
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