Difficult removal of oil filter

[marked23]

I did my first oil change today. Which I don't usually do. I used one of those cap-style filter wrenches... it didn't fit the yamaha filter perfectly. It kept slipping off.

So I took a screwdriver and pounded it through the side of the old filter(clear through, so it stuck out the other side). I bent the screwdriver trying to turn the filter. The filter was on there really really tight.

Is that normal?

I put the new filter on at 12ft/lbs. Also seemed quite tight.

 

[Road_Runner]

Yes too tight... both coming off, and when you put the new one on. Was the engine warm when you took the old one off? Oil change should be done after riding when it is just cool enough that you can touch the drian plug (15-20 minutes after riding). Warm engine will make it easier to remove. It is OK to do the change when the oil is very hot if you are very careful, but better to let it cool a bit.

I have used the end-cap style wrench, but a strap wrench works better. Every change I have done took very little effort to remove the old filter, and this is how it should be. In fact lately, I have been simply grasping the filter with both hands and twisting it off by hand.

Did you put oil on the filter gasket when installing the new filter? This is required... it might leak if not, and is for sure harder to install. The proper installation method for an oil filter is hand tight until it stops turning, then about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more (with oil on the gasket, of course). I don't put much torque on them at all, and I have never had one leak.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Sounds like the factory filter was good'n tite! Must be the same dude that installs the drain plugs.

If you used a Yamaha filter, the o ring comes pre-lubed with a light grease. I turn it on by hand until it stops. For other non-OEM filters definitely oil the gasket and then follow the manufacturers instructions, normally additional 3/4 - 1 turn from first gasket contact.

+1 on the strap wrench, it's all I use on my fleet!

--G

 

[marked23]

My 12ft/lbs made it hand tight + about 3/4 turn. I had both a yamaha filter and a bosch 3323 filter. I used the Bosch.. it's blue, like my 2012. I did lube the rubber gasket.

Next time, I'll do hand-tight + 1/4 and see how that goes.

>Yamaha filter, the o ring comes pre-lubed

I noticed that. Seemed like a bizarre place to add a little extra something.. I mean, even I know to lube the rubber.

> Was the engine warm?

Yes. Just got back from a ride to get the parts. Maybe 10 minutes of cooling.

>same dude that installs the drain plugs.

Damn that was tight too. Also torqued that to spec when I put it back together. Not being experienced at these things, I'm just following the book. Is that 43Nm too tight?

Also, It took about 4.5L to get the oil level to the middle of the site-glass. Not just 4.0L like the book said.

Thanks, guys

 

[Patriot]

the 32ft-lbs (43Nm) torque spec for the drain plug is definitely too tight...a few folks have stripped the pan using it

snug is fine...both for the plug(s) and the filter

I actually would recommend loosening the drain plug till it's untight and then just snug it

I personally wouldn't ride around for some thousand of miles with it that tight

torque specs in a manual are not gawdbreathed...axle nuts, motor mounts, brake parts & head bolts matter the most...

much of the rest, eh!

well many of us hooligans just use the "choked up wrist push on handle to snug" torque spec

I drop in a gallon of Shell Rotella Synthetic while on centerstand, run it to 1 bar warm, let sit 10-15min, then pour in more from a spare quart bottle till top of sight glass. Usually another 4 ounces or so.

I'm a fan of Purolator Pure One filter with the baby poo yellow color. At least the paint has grit in it for easy gripping.

Yammy & Bosch are fine. Ebeeberry haz a pinyun on all diz !!!

best to a fellow feej peep

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Chuck35]

I am reminded of the instructions printed on the filters of some Asian car maker I used to work for.

"Tighten enough by hand, then 1/8 turn".

Or there's always the "Good Ol' Boy" Method

"Tighten it till it strips, then back off 1/4 turn"

 

[HotRodZilla]

Hey Chuck...That last one there is the one the guys in the FJR factory use for the oil pan bolt. A pretty good number of those bad boys have been stripped.

 

[Auburn]

I use a pair of channel locks to remove stubborn filters. I tighten by hand. The drain plug I do by feel also. The torque spec is too high in the manual.

 

[LAF]

Yes too tight... both coming off, and when you put the new one on. Was the engine warm when you took the old one off? Oil change should be done after riding when it is just cool enough that you can touch the drian plug (15-20 minutes after riding). Warm engine will make it easier to remove. It is OK to do the change when the oil is very hot if you are very careful, but better to let it cool a bit.
I have used the end-cap style wrench, but a strap wrench works better. Every change I have done took very little effort to remove the old filter, and this is how it should be. In fact lately, I have been simply grasping the filter with both hands and twisting it off by hand.

Did you put oil on the filter gasket when installing the new filter? This is required... it might leak if not, and is for sure harder to install. The proper installation method for an oil filter is hand tight until it stops turning, then about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more (with oil on the gasket, of course). I don't put much torque on them at all, and I have never had one leak.

+1

Yep hand tight and never a worry car or bike.

 

[kamal]

I have a cap-style filter wrench, but if it starts to slip I use these:

+1 on the tighten by hand and 'snug' the drain plug.

Al.

 

[blueman]

Thank yamaha for making changing the oil so easy on the FJR. My 1995 Connie was a bitch to get to. Just for fun I also change the rear end oil at the same time. The rear end takes the same crush washers and it takes about 2 seconds to do.

 

[Spud]

For me, I have hand-tightened the filters, and the oil drain plug I take it to where it gets snug then torque it just a little more with the wrench. Still using the factory crush washer after 33K miles and about 10 oil changes, not a drop of oil has ever leaked. I know some people say replace the crush washer, but....how could a new one do any better of a job than the one on there now?

 

[flagstaff]

Mine came with a K&N oil filter installed and a spare for the next oil change. The KN-148 is a regular spin-on filter but it has a 17mm "nut" welded to the base. Since you already have the 17mm out for the drain plug removing and installing the filter is a snap. It is a nice gloss black so it blends in nicely. I wish all my filters had the same setup.

 

[900gc]

the 32ft-lbs (43Nm) torque spec for the drain plug is definitely too tight...a few folks have stripped the pan using it
snug is fine...both for the plug(s) and the filter

I actually would recommend loosening the drain plug till it's untight and then just snug it

I personally wouldn't ride around for some thousand of miles with it that tight

torque specs in a manual are not gawdbreathed...axle nuts, motor mounts, brake parts & head bolts matter the most...

much of the rest, eh!

well many of us hooligans just use the "choked up wrist push on handle to snug" torque spec

I drop in a gallon of Shell Rotella Synthetic while on centerstand, run it to 1 bar warm, let sit 10-15min, then pour in more from a spare quart bottle till top of sight glass. Usually another 4 ounces or so.

I'm a fan of Purolator Pure One filter with the baby poo yellow color. At least the paint has grit in it for easy gripping.

Yammy & Bosch are fine. Ebeeberry haz a pinyun on all diz !!!

best to a fellow feej peep

Mike in Nawlins'

"I'm a fan of Purolator Pure One filter with the baby poo yellow color. At least the paint has grit in it for easy gripping."

It's also a top rated filter. I tighten it by hand and with the grippieness of the finish, it comes off by hand as well. The only time I needed a strap wrench was when removing the smooth Yammy filter before switching to the Pure One.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Thank yamaha for making changing the oil so easy on the FJR. My 1995 Connie was a bitch to get to. Just for fun I also change the rear end oil at the same time. The rear end takes the same crush washers and it takes about 2 seconds to do.

I think the dealer that changed the gear oil on the FJR I just bought (used) either forgot to put on a new crush washer or left it off completely....mine is leaking slightly....have to check it again.

 

[GPRIDER]

I have a cap-style filter wrench, but if it starts to slip I use these:

+1 on the tighten by hand and 'snug' the drain plug.

Al.

I've got one of these. Had to on an over tight filter. You can not tighten an automotive filter, with a flat gasket suface as much as a yamie filter with an oring type filter. I made the mistake of tightening a Bosch to 13 lbs. and that's why I had to buy these channel locks. Hand tightening as explained above is the way to go.

GP

 

[luvtoride]

From a woman with 91,000 miles on her bike:

I've changed my own oil since I bought the bike with under 7,000 miles. I hand tighten my filters. I usually need 2 hands to get it back off for the next change. I rarely need a wrench to get the filter off. I also never torque the oil pan bolt... hand tight & then a lil' wrench oomph to get her tight. Usually change crush washers every other oil change.

 

[Intech]

I cuss myself sometimes when I change my filter for putting it on too tight. It doesn't need to be tightened much past hand tight. If installed adequately you should be able to take it off by hand.

 

[3dogs]

For me, I have hand-tightened the filters, and the oil drain plug I take it to where it gets snug then torque it just a little more with the wrench. Still using the factory crush washer after 33K miles and about 10 oil changes, not a drop of oil has ever leaked. I know some people say replace the crush washer, but....how could a new one do any better of a job than the one on there now?

10 oil changes in 33k? Let's see, that's $5 per filter x 10 = $50 + 40 quarts (4qts x 10 oil changes) at $6 per qt. = $240 + the $50 for the filters for a grand total of $290.
Buying into the “Lube-n-Tune” advertising campaign of changing oil every 3000 miles is a complete waste of your time and money. Changing oil ever 5k only costs $174 so you could have saved $66 plus your time and wearing out the drain plug threads—just sayin… Oh by the way, I have 110k on my 05 and still use the original crush washer on the drain plug!