DIY valve clearance check/adjust

[henwil]

Hi Folks,

Well I have put 16k miles on my new-to-me FJR since Feb and she is sitting at 28k miles. So I am planning to check the valve clearances in the near future. I am not willing to pay the $630 + parts + tax the dealer wants. I have free time now since I am between jobs and I would enjoy doing it.

I do not expect anyone local that is experienced in this to have the time to look over my shoulder. But it might work if someone is going to do their valves and I can look over their shoulder and help where I can. I will then be comfy to come home and do my own I think.

So question 1

: Anyone within a few hours of Olympia WA planning to do their own valve check in the near future?

Option one is a long shot so I might be on my own. But I do know it would not be wise to just start tearing the bike apart per the service manual. One little detail missed would be bad. So the plan is to study the posts on the topic and put together a doc to guide me. These seem to be several posts, but nothing comprehensive. Maybe I missed it.

Question 2: Has anyone put such a doc or post together that I could us as a reference?

This forum is great and I am sure once I get started and share on the forum what I am doing, someone will point out if I screw up at any point in the process.

Thanks!

 

[Bustanut joker]

Here's a good place to start.

https://www.fjr1300.i...o/valveadj.html

 

[Intech]

It really isn't that bad. I did not have to adjust anything, so no cam removal, but the link sheep boy gave you covers it all. The only difference is the throttle cables on the Gen II. To give more slack I disconnected the cable at the grip. It is also a lot easier with two sets of hands on the valve cover. And unless you are removing cams or changing the tensioner you don't need to take the side cover off. Put it in 5th and use the rear wheel for rotating the crank.

 

[rbentnail]

It really isn't that bad. I did not have to adjust anything, so no cam removal, but the link sheep boy gave you covers it all. The only difference is the throttle cables on the Gen II. To give more slack I disconnected the cable at the grip. It is also a lot easier with two sets of hands on the valve cover. And unless you are removing cams or changing the tensioner you don't need to take the side cover off. Put it in 5th and use the rear wheel for rotating the crank.

Gunny on the throttle cables. I invested in WynPro plates so once I got the PAIR stuff out I left it out. I also found that removing the windshield is a big help.

I agree it really isn't that bad a job once you've done it.

 

[SLK50]

It isn't that difficult.

Where I found I appreciated help the most was doing the math

and keeping track of the clearances. Having someone else do

that cleared my head to concentrate on the "mechanics".

Made the whole process pretty simple.

Oh, and my local Honda dealer sold the shims I needed by the piece.

 

[DennisJ]

Handy worksheet for valve shim sizing https://home.comcast.net/~FJR-NERDS/Files/Valve_Clearances_rev1.xls copy link into your browser, open the location, and save the spreadsheet somewhere handy, I usually put stuff on the desktop until I decide whether to keep it or not.

originally by Billy Yamafitter, also referenced recently in another valve clearance/adjustment thread that I can't find at the moment.

 

[bluesdog]

Just checked mine a couple of months ago. No shims were required.

Most annoying thing was replacing the valve cover, as the gasket kept falling out until I used a very small amount of gasket sticker stuff to hold it in place.

The throttle cables also required a bit of finesse -- on the Gen II make sure to loosen the connection at the throttle body, so the cables can be swung out of the way easily.

Take pictures before, during and after, especially for things like the aforementioned throttle cables, so they can be routed/positioned correctly during reassembly.

Take your time with it

 

[garyahouse]

Go Henwil, Go. We're rooting for ya.

+1 on the gasket glue. Saved my but on other jobs many times.

Must see pictures. Getting boring around here.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[henwil]

Thanks everyone! Great link. I will study it in detail.

Great tips that I will add to my database

I will definitely post pics so you can keep me on track.

I am glad to hear it is not as bad as some make it sound.

Now I am just waiting for some rainy weather to take a break from riding since this might take several days the first time.

I also got the cover plates that I will install.

 

[blassoff]

Might as we'll replace the plugs too while you're there. Yammy says 8000 miles on plugs, iirc.

Good luck, it's a time consuming job, but not too difficult.

Baz

 

[RossKean]

...this might take several days the first time.I also got the cover plates that I will install.

Don't overthink it too much. The first time I did a valve check, it probably took 4 hours or so (no adjustments needed). I removed the tank rather than prop it up - more room to work and easier to see. I was faster on subsequent checks. Last check (this past weekend) at 110,000 miles I needed to do some adjustments for the first time (intake only; exhaust valves were all good). Since I was pulling the cam anyway, I decided to adjust all the intake shims to near the middle of the range (0.20mm). Did the adjustment by sanding on carbide paper instead of buying new shims. Even with the time-consuming process of the valve adjustment, the whole process probably took 5-6 hours or so. (Local dealer didn't have the necessary shims in stock). Some people buy shim kits - pretty cheap on a "per shim" basis but you only get 3 or so in each size (0.05mm increments). Chances are, (if you need to do any adjustments) you will need shims only in the range of 165-180 (1.65mm to 1.80mm) for intakes so you are buying a lot of shims you would never use and might not have enough of the size you need.

 

[Silent]

If you do have to pull a cam to change one of the valve shims, make sure you use the correct timing marks when you put the cams back in. Might even want to tripple check before putting the cam caps back on. Missing here can be a motor removal and about $900 in parts/head repairs.

Don't ask me how I know this

 

[rbentnail]

If you do have to pull a cam to change one of the valve shims, make sure you use the correct timing marks when you put the cams back in. Might even want to tripple check before putting the cam caps back on. Missing here can be a motor removal and about $900 in parts/head repairs.
Don't ask me how I know this

Absolutely! The first time I checked mine I thought there was no way I could have jumped a tooth but sure enough I did. But as you say, checking and double checking caught it.

 

[bergmen]

...this might take several days the first time.I also got the cover plates that I will install.

Don't overthink it too much. The first time I did a valve check, it probably took 4 hours or so (no adjustments needed). I removed the tank rather than prop it up - more room to work and easier to see. I was faster on subsequent checks. Last check (this past weekend) at 110,000 miles I needed to do some adjustments for the first time (intake only; exhaust valves were all good). Since I was pulling the cam anyway, I decided to adjust all the intake shims to near the middle of the range (0.20mm). Did the adjustment by sanding on carbide paper instead of buying new shims. Even with the time-consuming process of the valve adjustment, the whole process probably took 5-6 hours or so. (Local dealer didn't have the necessary shims in stock). Some people buy shim kits - pretty cheap on a "per shim" basis but you only get 3 or so in each size (0.05mm increments). Chances are, (if you need to do any adjustments) you will need shims only in the range of 165-180 (1.65mm to 1.80mm) for intakes so you are buying a lot of shims you would never use and might not have enough of the size you need.

Yikes, I don't know if I would do this. The top and bottom surfaces of the shims need to be absolutely parallel to each other to prevent inducing some lateral forces to either the bucket or valve stem that you really don't want to do. If you can maintain this parallelism by hand sanding, no problem but I know I couldn't.

Dan

 

[RossKean]

Well, I hope its not an issue. The shim is pretty small compared to the bucket and the end of the valve stem is even smaller compared to the shim. I would be surprised if this created a problem unless the sides were very far off parallel. I was careful to run figure 8's on the paper and did not see any differences while measuring. I was, however, using a digital caliper rather than a micrometer.

 

[Twigg]

Yikes, I don't know if I would do this. The top and bottom surfaces of the shims need to be absolutely parallel to each other to prevent inducing some lateral forces to either the bucket or valve stem that you really don't want to do. If you can maintain this parallelism by hand sanding, no problem but I know I couldn't.
Dan

Potentially, you could use a surface grinder to reduce the size of the shims, and that would be very accurate and maintain the parallel surface.

However, the real problems come if the shims are "case hardened". If that is the case you will likely grind off the hardened surface and open up a world of hurt.

It's not worth it ... Get the correct shims. If you have a local bike dismantler you can probably pick them up for a few bucks each.

 

[bergmen]

Yikes, I don't know if I would do this. The top and bottom surfaces of the shims need to be absolutely parallel to each other to prevent inducing some lateral forces to either the bucket or valve stem that you really don't want to do. If you can maintain this parallelism by hand sanding, no problem but I know I couldn't.
Dan

Potentially, you could use a surface grinder to reduce the size of the shims, and that would be very accurate and maintain the parallel surface.

However, the real problems come if the shims are "case hardened". If that is the case you will likely grind off the hardened surface and open up a world of hurt.

It's not worth it ... Get the correct shims. If you have a local bike dismantler you can probably pick them up for a few bucks each.

Yes, disturbing a possible "case hardened" surface was an additional issue I forgot to mention above. My local dealer is really cool about obtaining the correct shims that I need (for a Kawasaki ZRX1200 engine). He lets me bring in the shims I don't need and trade straight across for the shims I do need. He has a huge, sorted collection of shims and he lets me do an even trade for free. I take a micrometer with me to confirm thickness and we're good to go.

Dan

 

[RossKean]

The problem wasn't paying for the shims. The problem was getting them once it was determined what I would need. Dealer didn't have them in stock and they would be three days away if I ordered them. I'm pretty sure they aren't case hardened.

 

[Twigg]

The problem wasn't paying for the shims. The problem was getting them once it was determined what I would need. Dealer didn't have them in stock and they would be three days away if I ordered them. I'm pretty sure they aren't case hardened.

Why are you sure they are not case hardened ... it would be the natural way to make then. Cut a bunch of blanks, case-harden them and grind to thickness.

It's possible they are hardened by another method, but they are a bearing surface so they do have to be very hard. I didn't think you were being cheap, and yes, the three day wait would be a pita. I'm surprised the dealers don't keep a good supply, they must get bikes in for this job on a regular basis.