Do I really have to "check and adjust valve clearance" at 27,000 miles?

[mcatrophy]

At just over 42,000 Km, my feej will be due for a check by the time the cursed white stuff clogs my driveway.
I plan on doing the check myself, and will most likely, and very carefully, do any needed adjustments.

Judging by the way the thing is running, I'll be surprised if any adjustment is needed.

As far as valve clearances are concerned, if the engine isn't running well, you are already damaging valve seats. This is real "preventative maintenance".

 

[C&C]

I'm a low mile user (30,000 in ten years), an '04 (bought new), using toptier fuel, regular oil changes, etc. I'm going to 'roll the dice' and not do the check; my choice and my opinion. If I ruin or damage my engine I'll try to be up front and admit it (to the Forum) but I'm thinking I'm going to 'get away with it'. Not bragging or complaining (just sharing my plan).

 

[RossKean]

I'm a low mile user (30,000 in ten years), an '04 (bought new), using toptier fuel, regular oil changes, etc. I'm going to 'roll the dice' and not do the check; my choice and my opinion. If I ruin or damage my engine I'll try to be up front and admit it (to the Forum) but I'm thinking I'm going to 'get away with it'. Not bragging or complaining (just sharing my plan).

Your bike, your choice. I would suggest getting it done at least once. No matter how much you baby the bike, you could be in trouble if the initial setting was already close to the minimum or maximum specification.

 

[Fred W]

On my 2005 the first valve check was all in tolerance. The second had 2 just at the edge of tolerance, so I adjusted them back to center.

My opinion:

There is no "edge" to valve clearance specs. You are either in or you are out.

And there is no good reason to adjust an in-spec valve clearance to the center of tolerance. The spec ranges have been selected so that if it does wear out of spec during a 25k interval it will not wear far enough to cause any issues. These clearances just do not change all that quickly.

It is not as hard as you think, if you have the correct tools and the service manual. Also, don't skimp on the gaskets and o-rings, you saved a lot of $$ not having the dealer work on it, so treat yourself.

I'll disagree here about the valve cover gasket. It is a very substantial rubber seal of a low pressure area of the head (just oil splash) and you should be able to reuse that gasket multiple times. I've reused mine three times already, and I don't even bother using RTV on the "half moons" at the ends of the cams (per the FSM suggestion). No leaks (knock on wood).

But do not under any circumstances think that you will get away with reusing the coolant pipe o-rings. When you pull them off you'll note that they are now square in cross-section (they start life as round) and they are sealing the cooling system which is under considerable pressure.

My dealer says $250 to check and $430 if they have to adjust. I'm concerned they will have to because one exhaust valve was on the tight end last time at 26k.
I don't think I'll actually get charged that much, but it's like 5.5 hours of labor for a shim change. ******* stupid.

5.5 hours for a shim change wouldn't be too bad, AJ. If you do it yourself you're probably looking at taking at least twice that long. If you had an exhaust that was tight last time make sure you do some de-carbonizing (seafoam or ring free) before having it checked next time. Carbon build up on exhaust valves can make the clearance grow and may make it look like it's in spec when it really isn't (or vice versa).

I'm a low mile user (30,000 in ten years), an '04 (bought new), using toptier fuel, regular oil changes, etc. I'm going to 'roll the dice' and not do the check; my choice and my opinion. If I ruin or damage my engine I'll try to be up front and admit it (to the Forum) but I'm thinking I'm going to 'get away with it'. Not bragging or complaining (just sharing my plan).

You may get away with it. At the very least you'll want to have them checked / adjusted before you sell the bike to get what it's worth. A bike that has incomplete service records is depreciated by more than the cost of a valve check at time of sale.

Of course you could always just trade it in on a new one (and take the accompanying financial hit there), which is the reason I usually check the valves of any used bike that I buy if it is past the first valve check. It very likely never got done regardless of what the paperwork says.

 

[Bounce]

Bottom line, IMO, is that if you don't check you don't know. It may be okay but if it's not it WILL be expensive if you skimp and skip it.

 

[kaitsdad]

I recently completed a check on a 26k engine - all within spec. No shim work necessary.

The other 6 FJR's I checked ALL required shim work. These were all second or higher checks - and there seems to be a pattern of the 4E2 being tight.

Cheap to do compared to a rebuild.

 

[HotRodZilla]

What does using "top-tier" fuel have to do with anything? Oh yeah, that's right...Absolutely nothing.

Threads like this are why I abhor buying used bikes or cars.

 

[NMRoadRunner]

Checking is the easy part, shimming a little tougher. It's hard to change out the shims with my failing eyesight and arthritic fingers. But I've done it to other bikes before, the FJR hasen't needed it yet, prolly on the next check though.

 

[900gc]

What does using "top-tier" fuel have to do with anything? Oh yeah, that's right...Absolutely nothing.
Threads like this are why I abhor buying used bikes or cars.

What, never heard of Citco Tri Clean gas? It's got to be better because they say so right?