Valve check/Valve adjustment in Dallas-Ft. Worth

[GPRIDER]

The cams do not need to be pulled to check the valve lash. They will, however, need to be removed if they are out of spec and need different pads installed.

That's what I was talking about. I already knew that. I checked the valves just fine and can get by with the measurements till the next check. You have to take the cams off to replace shims. I wasn't prepared to do that if it needed it. Will try to be prepared at the next check with the knowledge or help from someone that has pulled cams for a adjustment before.

GP

 

[st4]

Glad to hear that GP

 

[2GENAE]

Ok, I took the bike over to another shop in the area and they did a diagnostic check. The codes came up and they cancelled them. No more check engine light. These guys were older experienced Tech's. All I can figure is The younger unexperienced Tech that did the first diagnostic either didn't know what he was doing or something was wrong with the computer or diagnostic program. Light is off and I'm good to go.

GP

I live in Ft Worth what shop did you use?

 

[kdclaiborne]

I'm curious what Yamaha dealership you took it to that was able to successfully reset the codes? I don't plan to take my 2013 with 24k miles to a dealer, but if I do I want to avoid the last (Irving, Tx) dealer that previous owner took bike to that left the bottom 2 triple tree pinch bolts loose (and 1 fork 1/8' higher in top triple) when doing the fork seals...

 

[GPRIDER]

I live in Ft Worth what shop did you use?

Lone Star in Irving. The service department seemed to be competent. It's not really farther from me than the shop I usually go to in Rockwall, but you have to drive through downtown Dallas to get there and back unless you want to go 10 or 15 miles out of the way to avoid it. The traffic sucks through there most of the time. I can already tell you I will go back to Lone Star if I need any mechanical or technical problems I can't figure out on my own. I have lost confidence in the Rockwall service department. That goes for Ride Now Powersports on 635 and Plano Rd. also.

GP

 

[JREW]

That's what I was talking about. I already knew that. I checked the valves just fine and can get by with the measurements till the next check. You have to take the cams off to replace shims. I wasn't prepared to do that if it needed it. Will try to be prepared at the next check with the knowledge or help from someone that has pulled cams for a adjustment before.

GP

Just for your future adjustment plans, if cylinder 1 to 3 are the only ones needing adjustment, you do NOT have to completely pull the cams. All you have to do after removing the bolts that hold them, is tip the cam up from the left side, being careful not to slip the timing chain (a zip tie or two helps). Doing this will give you access to the buckets and shims and not require removing the cam chain. If cylinder 4 is out, then you'll have to do it all.

 

[RossKean]

Just for your future adjustment plans, if cylinder 1 to 3 are the only ones needing adjustment, you do NOT have to completely pull the cams. All you have to do after removing the bolts that hold them, is tip the cam up from the left side, being careful not to slip the timing chain (a zip tie or two helps). Doing this will give you access to the buckets and shims and not require removing the cam chain. If cylinder 4 is out, then you'll have to do it all.

I never considered that, although for some reason I have found #4 to be out more than 1-3. In any case, if I am changing any of the intake shims, I'll adjust all of them to approx 70% of the max in the acceptance interval. This safely ensures the longest possible time until they will need further adjustment.
Interestingly enough, with both FJRs, the intakes were very close to minimum clearance at the first check but I didn't need to make any changes until around the third. Knowing the valve train stability (as mentioned by @Dan Cooper ), I don't fret about doing them when they are "due" based upon mileage as long as I have a baseline. Might be more inclined to keep to the schedule if the previous check had one or more valves that were close to minimum.

Mentioned previously... In all the valve checks I have done on the two FJRs I have owned (450,000 km and counting), I have never had to adjust an exhaust valve. (Not all that many intakes were below spec either...)

 

[art miller]

Question for those of you who are highly experienced wrench mechanics. Do you think it makes a difference if the bike is often run at high RPM vs keeping it within 4-5 thousand RPM? I am curious as having had three FJR's over the past 20 years never have any of the bikes needed shims when checked at the suggested intervals.

 

[RossKean]

Question for those of you who are highly experienced wrench mechanics. Do you think it makes a difference if the bike is often run at high RPM vs keeping it within 4-5 thousand RPM? I am curious as having had three FJR's over the past 20 years never have any of the bikes needed shims when checked at the suggested intervals.

Probably makes some difference - more wear per mile, especially running lower gear at high rpm. How many miles on your FJRs? Quite often, valve adjustments are not necessary before 50,000 to 75,000 miles. A few (not necessarily abused) have needed changes at the first scheduled interval. May depend on how close they were from the factory.

 

[Constant Mesh]

One needs to be very careful using the feeler gauges. One or two of the FJR valves are a bit difficult to access with the feelers. If you don't have the gauge perfectly flat on the lifter you may believe that the clearance is tight when actually it's fine -- the feeler may be slightly twisted/distorted/askew, not flat on the lifter.

 

[RossKean]

One needs to be very careful using the feeler gauges. One or two of the FJR valves are a bit difficult to access with the feelers. If you don't have the gauge perfectly flat on the lifter you may believe that the clearance is tight when actually it's fine -- the feeler may be slightly twisted/distorted/askew, not flat on the lifter.

Good point! I'm pretty careful with it and haven't had issues on my FJR, but you have to watch what you are doing.

OTOH, the valves on my BMW F700GS are VERY difficult to get a straight run for checking clearances. I just bought a set of tapered metric feeler gauges as well as a set with a 45° angled end. Hope the next check works out better. I found several very close to minimum but can't be sure if it was a function of not being able to get a straight run at the space.

 

[art miller]

Probably makes some difference - more wear per mile, especially running lower gear at high rpm. How many miles on your FJRs? Quite often, valve adjustments are not necessary before 50,000 to 75,000 miles. A few (not necessarily abused) have needed changes at the first scheduled interval. May depend on how close they were from the factory.

Currently the bike has 71,000 miles completed. I do not recall if there was any adjustments needed at the first scheduled interval.

 

[RossKean]

Currently the bike has 71,000 miles completed. I do not recall if there was any adjustments needed at the first scheduled interval.

Have you looked at the actual valve clearance data yourself or was the work done by a shop that simply did "Go, no-Go" with a min and max feeler gauge? I always measure and record actual clearance so I can track change over time. Knowing it is a pass gives me no idea how close they are or how long I might choose to wait before the next clearance check. Proper measurement tracking might also tell me if there was an incipient problem with the engine that affected valve clearance.

 

[art miller]

Have you looked at the actual valve clearance data yourself or was the work done by a shop that simply did "Go, no-Go" with a min and max feeler gauge? I always measure and record actual clearance so I can track change over time. Knowing it is a pass gives me no idea how close they are or how long I might choose to wait before the next clearance check. Proper measurement tracking might also tell me if there was an incipient problem with the engine that affected valve clearance.

Thanks for your comments. I have not seen the actual measurements. The shop that did the last valve has a very experienced tech who said, considering your age and how you ride it is not likely shims will be a concern.

 

[RossKean]

The shop that did the last valve has a very experienced tech who said, considering your age and how you ride it is not likely shims will be a concern.

Not sure how I would take that comment. I don't beat the snot out of it but I have had to make adjustments on both FJRs I have owned (I just put lots of miles on them). If I had a shop do the work, I would want to know actual clearances.

 

[SkooterG]

Thanks for your comments. I have not seen the actual measurements. The shop that did the last valve has a very experienced tech who said, considering your age and how you ride it is not likely shims will be a concern.

No offense to you or your tech but I take *anything* any dealer employee says with a grain of salt. Sometimes they like to talk out of their ass. Even if they mean well.

 

[keithq]

Lone Star in Irving. The service department seemed to be competent. It's not really farther from me than the shop I usually go to in Rockwall, but you have to drive through downtown Dallas to get there and back unless you want to go 10 or 15 miles out of the way to avoid it. The traffic sucks through there most of the time. I can already tell you I will go back to Lone Star if I need any mechanical or technical problems I can't figure out on my own. I have lost confidence in the Rockwall service department. That goes for Ride Now Powersports on 635 and Plano Rd. also.

GP

I have used them (Lone Star) too but now adays, the hourly rate has risen so much, I am hoping I can do any needed stuff myself... not that I am all that qualified! Bought a couple of bikes from them as well.