Driveshaft/Gear Coupling/Final Drive 101

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You tell us. Is the "gunk" the consistency of gear oil or of grease?
Hard to tell. Neither? I just went to the garage and checked it. I wiped some off and was certainly wasn't oily. Maybe a little greasy, but there wasn't that much (it's only been 10 miles since I washed it) and it seemed dry due to dust? I'll ride it another 100 miles or so and report back.
Just took the bike in for the 600 mile check. The rear wheel stays clean now. Must of been something left over from the original setup.

 
Is anyone using anything other than the Yamaha shaft oil in their gearbox? I am trying to find the specs of the oil. I'm guessing it is close to an 80W90. Does anybody know? The Yamaha stuff costs me $28.99 per half liter. Why so much?

 
Found this in a helpful historical post by rickster - maint history

Final Drive Oil: 0.21 Qt.

Questions regarding Final Drive Oil or Shaft Gear Oil: Yamaha specifies 9079E-SH001-00 ($19.95 / pint at FJRGoodies.com), and the specifications and grade are not listed on the Yamaha shaft gear oil.

Others have used Mobil 1® Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-140 API GL-5, or the Penzoil from Walmart (marine synthetic gear drive oil 75/90W from Penzoil for $6.95 a quart)

 
Found this in a helpful historical post by rickster - maint history
Final Drive Oil: 0.21 Qt.

Questions regarding Final Drive Oil or Shaft Gear Oil: Yamaha specifies 9079E-SH001-00 ($19.95 / pint at FJRGoodies.com), and the specifications and grade are not listed on the Yamaha shaft gear oil.

Others have used Mobil 1® Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-140 API GL-5, or the Penzoil from Walmart (marine synthetic gear drive oil 75/90W from Penzoil for $6.95 a quart)
After much searching on this site and others, I was still nervous about substitutions for the first service and ponied up for the factory stuff. We need one of the more "financially established" members to send a couple ounces of the liquid gold off for oil analysis. I'm bike poor and intend to squeeze another oil change out of the little bottle. $7 for a quart at Walmart sounds good to me.

 
Skooter - this write up was extremely helpful to me this morning. I took mine down, and your pictures and explanation of the coupling design was a big help. #34 was the splooge culprit on mine. As you describe, hard to take the old hard seal down, easy to install a new one. With 8K miles on my bike, the shaft teeth haven't even finished wearing in yet. Just put everything back together - I can't test it because I want to change my front tire first and I need to purchase some rim protectors before I go spooning the old tire off. This is the firt bike I've owned with a painted rim.

Thanks again.

 
Skooter - this write up was extremely helpful to me this morning. I took mine down, and your pictures and explanation of the coupling design was a big help. #34 was the splooge culprit on mine. As you describe, hard to take the old hard seal down, easy to install a new one. With 8K miles on my bike, the shaft teeth haven't even finished wearing in yet. Just put everything back together - I can't test it because I want to change my front tire first and I need to purchase some rim protectors before I go spooning the old tire off. This is the firt bike I've owned with a painted rim.

Thanks again.
Quick question (I never had an issue with my 2004, 80,000 miles and not enough 'splooge'to be an issue.) Did #34 die due to old age hardening? 8k miles is awful low for a seal to fail. I've got 12k on my 11 month old '09, it sat for two years at the dealer and I'm wondering if I should be concerned.

 
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