Easy Way to Bleed Hydraulic Systems

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Not sure what the big deal is on brake bleeding. I have no Speedbleeders, Mityvacs, pressure bleeders or converted pop bottles. I spend ~45 minutes or so every two years bleeding 3 front brake nipples, clutch and rear brake using the "manual" method. I suppose I would save 15 minutes or so using one of these devices.

I will admit that they would be useful if you had to drain and refill the system to do major maintenance such as replacing lines, slave cylinder, caliper etc. but (IMHO) not necssary for routine maintenance hydraulic bleeding.

 
Not sure what the big deal is on brake bleeding. I have no Speedbleeders, Mityvacs, pressure bleeders or converted pop bottles. I spend ~45 minutes or so every two years bleeding 3 front brake nipples, clutch and rear brake using the "manual" method. I suppose I would save 15 minutes or so using one of these devices.
I will admit that they would be useful if you had to drain and refill the system to do major maintenance such as replacing lines, slave cylinder, caliper etc. but (IMHO) not necssary for routine maintenance hydraulic bleeding.
Not necessary. I've done it your way for years. But if you do your own car maintenance, it's a two-person job without something like this. I've tried to get my wife to help with brake fluid flushing, but she always manages to get off sync with me and release when I've got the valve open.

 
Agree on the car maintenance. Some mechanical assistance is recommended for that! (I don't do my own hydraulic system maintenance on my cars).

 
No, it's not a real big deal. Yes you can do it the old (harder) way, but why not do it easier?

I've been using a Mity-Vac for the past 6-8 years on both bikes and cars, and would never go back to pumping the pedal/lever.

 
I used one of these for years.

https://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/Brake-Bleeding-Kit-Mityvac-6820_p_19011.html

But when I got a store gift card, I got one these to replace it.

https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947836000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kispla=00947836000P&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=30-132731878-2

Either make it a quick, one-man job without the needed to jump back-and-forth to press a brake lever. Cars, bikes, trucks, whatever. Just as easy with any of them. All you have to do is make sure the master cyl remains topped off.

 
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Neat little home-made job, but since I bought the brake bleeding kit from Speedbleeder I'll never go back. It makes things SO much easier.
Speedbleeder doesn't seem to sell it anymore, but here it is at another place: Clicky.

Best $6 I've ever spent. The tubing is flexible like surgical tubing, and the bag can be sitting anywhere. No tip-overs, no spills, no hassle. I am in
wub.gif
!!!
IMHO, Speedbleeders are the way to go, I won't go back. That silicone hose is da bomb. The HF fill bottle has merit.... Not a fan of the vacuum type, need to make sure the threads of the bleeders are sealed unless you get lucky.

 
Neat little home-made job, but since I bought the brake bleeding kit from Speedbleeder I'll never go back. It makes things SO much easier.Speedbleeder doesn't seem to sell it anymore, but here it is at another place: Clicky.Best $6 I've ever spent. The tubing is flexible like surgical tubing, and the bag can be sitting anywhere. No tip-overs, no spills, no hassle. I am in [img=[URL="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/wub.gif%5D!!!"]https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/wub.gif]!!![/URL]
Agreed!

I bought the Speedbleeders & bag/tubing for my Wingabago a few years ago and can't imagine doing the job without.

But I ride the short bus.

 
Speedbleeder doesn't seem to sell it anymore, but here it is at another place: Clicky.
Best $6 I've ever spent. The tubing is flexible like surgical tubing, and the bag can be sitting anywhere. No tip-overs, no spills, no hassle. I am in
wub.gif
!!!
They're still available at www.speedbleeder.com because I just bought a couple of them last week and they were already delivered.

https://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com

 
FYI, almost ANY auto drive-in oil change place will take your used oil and other fluids . . . no problem. Otherwise, you need to check for local haxemat collection points as noted earlier in the thread.

Shuey

 
I love ingenious DIY tools, especially if they work well.
thumbsup.gif

Has anyone ever made a good reverse flow, pressure bleeder (i.e. push the fluid up into the reservoir from the bottom bleeder)?

That would be the cat's ***, IMO, especially for doing clutch slaves. It's always a bit tough to get all of the air out from the bottom bleeders since the tubing is near vertical in some places. Going backwards the bubbles' natural buoyancy would aid in the bleeding.

The toughest part would be designing a tight enough seal at the bleed nipple so you don't introduce any air there.
You can get the air out of vertical hoses by squeezing the lever and tying it back to the handlebars for a few hours. That should leave the master cylinder valve open and the air will float out.

 
Speed Bleeder is the easiest way I've found over the years. Used them on my cars over the years and on the FJR since I bought it. Did just order the bag a couple of weeks ago when I ordered some bleeders for my sister's car so they still have the bags. Little plastic bottle with a hole drilled in the top to accept the silicon hose they also sell works just fine also.

 
I love ingenious DIY tools, especially if they work well.
thumbsup.gif

Has anyone ever made a good reverse flow, pressure bleeder (i.e. push the fluid up into the reservoir from the bottom bleeder)?

That would be the cat's ***, IMO, especially for doing clutch slaves. It's always a bit tough to get all of the air out from the bottom bleeders since the tubing is near vertical in some places. Going backwards the bubbles' natural buoyancy would aid in the bleeding.

The toughest part would be designing a tight enough seal at the bleed nipple so you don't introduce any air there.
You can get the air out of vertical hoses by squeezing the lever and tying it back to the handlebars for a few hours. That should leave the master cylinder valve open and the air will float out.
When you squeeze the lever the Master Cylinder valve is closed (otherwise you wouldn't have any pressure). I believe this technique works by compressing any air/gas bubbles making them small enough to float/percolate to the top and then come out when the lever is released and the valve is opened.

 
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When you squeeze the lever the Master Cylinder valve is closed (otherwise you wouldn't have any pressure). I believe this technique works by compressing any air/gas bubbles making them small enough to float/percolate to the top and then come out when the lever is released and the valve is opened.
That makes more sense than what I said :D

It does work though, for some situations. The Venture Royal front brake was notoriously difficult to bleed ... This technique almost always cleared the last bit of air.

 
When you squeeze the lever the Master Cylinder valve is closed (otherwise you wouldn't have any pressure). I believe this technique works by compressing any air/gas bubbles making them small enough to float/percolate to the top and then come out when the lever is released and the valve is opened.
That makes more sense than what I said
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It does work though, for some situations. The Venture Royal front brake was notoriously difficult to bleed ... This technique almost always cleared the last bit of air.
Completely agree, the technique does work................
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My take on brake bleeding....

6-8 foot long length of silicon rubber hose...

Attached to a bleed nipple and pump ALL the brake fluid out of the master cylinder, front or rear. Completely empty.

Now, with new, unadulterated fluid in the reservoir, put the open end of the tube IN THE RESERVOIR. Pump as much as you need to eliminate ALL bubbles in the hose. Don't worry about pumping the reservoir dry...it's being refilled as you pump.

Once all the bubbles are gone, move on to the next bleed nipple, rinse, repeat, move on to the next bleed nipple, etc.

This method learned (the hard way) on a 1969 Fiat 124 Sport Spider that once had DOT 3 put in the master cylinder. Funny what that DOT **** did to the natural rubber seals on that Italian POS.

Took months to clear all that crap out to where new seals didn't dissolve like sugar cubes in a bowl of water.

Piece of hose long enough to reach from the farthest wheel to the master cylinder(s), a quart of DOT 4 and your FJR is happy.

 
Wait, I don't think I'm quite understanding what you are saying here. Are you saying that you take the long hose connect one end to the bleed nipple at the caliper and then stick the output end back to the master cylinder's reservoir? I guess that would work to recycle the same fluid while you work the bubbles out.

As an aside, what did Fiat want you to use for brake fluid?

 
Wait, I don't think I'm quite understanding what you are saying here. Are you saying that you take the long hose connect one end to the bleed nipple at the caliper and then stick the output end back to the master cylinder's reservoir?
Yep...that's exactly it. That's wny I say to start with an empty reservoir. That way, you only recycle NEW brake fluid.

I guess that would work to recycle the same fluid while you work the bubbles out.
What bubbles that do get "recycled" back to the reservoir float to the surface and don't get pumped back down the lines.

As an aside, what did Fiat want you to use for brake fluid?
Mineral-based, not glycol based, fluid.

Dammed Yurpeens!

 
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