electrical question

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Maybe Walter can sort this out based on current info, but for me it is insufficient information for a meaningful answer.

Go back and read the last line that I tacked on to this post and let me know for sure if you have an immobilizer. (Check owners manual?)

What brand and model of immobilizer are you installing, and is there a link to an online installation guide?

What position is your ignition key in when you use the remote starter?

 
In answer to the WTF?, Hey why not. I had a a Virago a few years back and picked up a motorcycle alarm at a garage say for like $30. It also had a remote start built into it. So in order to get my moneys worth I hooked up the remote start. I was actually alot of fun. I could sit on the deck at a restaurant and when people walked by I could start the bike up. Lots of startled reactions esp if they were looking at it close or even worse touching it. Other than that I never used it.

 
Maybe Walter can sort this out based on current info, but for me it is insufficient information for a meaningful answer.

Go back and read the last line that I tacked on to this post and let me know for sure if you have an immobilizer. (Check owners manual?)

What brand and model of immobilizer are you installing, and is there a link to an online installation guide?

What position is your ignition key in when you use the remote starter?
I'm thinking he has the US bike, he said he has a plain key. His remote starter kit is apparently hooked to the 12V switch in the ignition circuit, so he doesn't even need the key to use it. Hits the remote, the relay clicks and closes the ignition circuit. Problem is (assumption from problem description,) it doesn't close the second pole, the wire that carries ground from the starter cutoff relay to the ECU so the ECU knows that at least one of the switches, either neutral or sidestand, is grounded. One of those wires, either the Blue/white or the White/yellow, comes from the starter cutoff relay to the ignition switch, and the other continues from the switch to the ECU. Without that circuit closed, no fire at the spark plugs.

Why that has to go through the ignition switch is beyond me, unless that ground would actually close a circuit in the ECU and drain the battery while the bike was off.

 
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Maybe Walter can sort this out based on current info, but for me it is insufficient information for a meaningful answer.

Go back and read the last line that I tacked on to this post and let me know for sure if you have an immobilizer. (Check owners manual?)

What brand and model of immobilizer are you installing, and is there a link to an online installation guide?

What position is your ignition key in when you use the remote starter?
I'm thinking he has the US bike, he said he has a plain key. His remote starter kit is apparently hooked to the 12V switch in the ignition circuit, so he doesn't even need the key to use it. Hits the remote, the relay clicks and closes the ignition circuit. Problem is (assumption from problem description,) it doesn't close the second pole, the wire that carries ground from the starter cutoff relay to the ECU so the ECU knows that at least one of the switches, either neutral or sidestand, is grounded. One of those wires, either the Blue/white or the White/yellow, comes from the starter cutoff relay to the ignition switch, and the other continues from the switch to the ECU. Without that circuit closed, no fire at the spark plugs.

Why that has to go through the ignition switch is beyond me, unless that ground would actually close a circuit in the ECU and drain the battery while the bike was off.

So if i install a relay wired to send a ground to the ECU then everything would work fine ???

I will just have to figure out if its the Blue-white or the white- yellow that is missing the ground ...........

living in Quebec Canada yet buying my baby 2nd hand from Ontario, i would think it is a Canadian bike .

you have the wiring down packed, but the 12 volt is connected between the ignition and the fuse-box, the starter wire connects at the ECU and the cutoff is connected to the break !

my Buddy is picking me up a relay and next Tuesday night we will be giving it a try , its a learning process and i do appreciate all the help and comments.

Speaking of a learning experience, my flashers stopped working so the first place i checked was the fuses for the flashers but it was good, so thinking it was the flasher relay i attempted for the first time to remove the upper fairing to access the flasher relay ! at the same time my buddy was installing the remote starter we found the little door under the fuse door that held 3 fuses and one was for the 4 way flashers,and that was the fuse that was burnt !!!! Grrrrrrrr After all that work the problem was under my nose :) Oh well, i now know how to dismantle the front end !!

Later

BoYd

 
In answer to the WTF?, Hey why not. I had a a Virago a few years back and picked up a motorcycle alarm at a garage say for like $30. It also had a remote start built into it. So in order to get my moneys worth I hooked up the remote start. I was actually alot of fun. I could sit on the deck at a restaurant and when people walked by I could start the bike up. Lots of startled reactions esp if they were looking at it close or even worse touching it. Other than that I never used it.
Moosie! Go Bubba!

 
So if i install a relay wired to send a ground to the ECU then everything would work fine ???
No, not the right thing to do at all. With that, you'd be able to ride away with the sidestand down, and the first left turn's gonna be a bitch! Grounding that pin means the ECU would ignore the actual sidestand/neutral switch positions.

In a car, a remote starter has to do two things: turn on the ignition, and energize the starter until the motor's running.

In a Gen-I FJR, it has to do a third thing: connect the blue/yellow and white/blue wires together.

You can do that with a standard automotive relay. Take the 12-volts output from your remote, the one for ignition, not starter, and connect it to 85 or 86 on the relay. Ground the other one of those two terminals. Now you have the relay energized when the bike turns on. Now tap (not cut, but tap) the white/blue and blue/yellow wires, hook one to 30 and one to 87. That closes the circuit when the relay energizes, just as if the key had been turned on, the way God and Yamaha meant it to be.

Now your remote should work, and the safety circuit for the sidestand is still in place. If you deploy the sidestand while in gear the bike will shut off. It should also work normally with normal key operation. (Which, by the way, is why you don't cut those two wires, but tap them. If you cut them, the bike won't run except with the remote start.)

living in Quebec Canada yet buying my baby 2nd hand from Ontario, i would think it is a Canadian bike
If you have a plain key, that doesn't matter. I don't know when, but at some point Canadian bikes got an immobilizer system. Key with big head, bike won't run if it's not the right key, even if the key being used fits the lock. Your remote wouldn't work if the key was not at the bike, and yours does, once you connect those two wires. And even if Canadian bikes at the time did have immobilizers, lots of guys crossed the border to get their bikes cheaper in the US, so buying it used in Canada doesn't necessarily make it Canadian.

Oh well, i now know how to dismantle the front end !!
Have a look here for future reference.

 
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