Engine lite

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james1300

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03' with 43K. 90 degrees outside air temp today. Accelerating away from light.

Engine droped 2 cylinders, yellow engine warning lite came on for maybe 3 seconds.

Then it went off, and the engine ran fine all the way home, 5 miles.

Full fuel tank. No vacume like noise when I got home and opened the fuel cap.

Ideas's?

 
Amateur mechanic v65 here :) First thought: intermittent points to electrical. Guess: heat and electrical - could be a coil getting ready to crap the bed. Any guess as to which cylinders dropped out?

However, check the simple and cheap stuff first - for example, how's the fuel filter looking?

 
Amateur mechanic v65 here :) First thought: intermittent points to electrical. Guess: heat and electrical - could be a coil getting ready to crap the bed. Any guess as to which cylinders dropped out?
However, check the simple and cheap stuff first - for example, how's the fuel filter looking?
engine fault codes: 30 and 33.

30: The motorcycle has overturned.. Nope! I didnt tip over.

33:faulty Ignition, Open circuit detected in the primary wire of

the ignition coil. (#1, 4).

 
James,

I am not sure, but you may want to check this link out: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=22699

It appears you have an intermittent situation with one of your coils. I had a similar situation but not as serious as yours.

Update! I just found a wiring diagram fjrpierre.smugmug.com/gallery/635233/1/116789360/Medium

and it appears that the 2 High Voltage Coils (one for #1 & #4)(one for #2 & #3) pins in the Wiring Harness sit right next to each other with no Isolation. Thus any dirt/corrosion causes a leak path(shorting) between the pins causing Irregular/Intermittent poor running conditions. (These 2 pins sit tooooo close to each other with the voltages involved)

Hope this helps and let me know what you find out.

 
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James,




Hope this helps and let me know what you find out.
I cleaned the coils, wiped them down with a damp cloth.

Will try again. Reset diag. display.

This just hicuped. Then came back on after 2-3 seconds and worked great

for the 5 mile ride home.

160 mile trip planned for tomorrow.

Will try it and report back.

Thank you for the help!

 
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Well I was hoping someone else would chime in here. After my original post it occured to me that there is a simple test for a failing coil using resistance. I am away from my FSM, so I don't have the specs handy (probably the same as they are for a car: Mustang example).

I cleaned the coils, wiped them down with a damp cloth.
Was there stuff in there?

 
Well I was hoping someone else would chime in here. After my original post it occured to me that there is a simple test for a failing coil using resistance. I am away from my FSM, so I don't have the specs handy (probably the same as they are for a car: Mustang example).

I cleaned the coils, wiped them down with a damp cloth.
Was there stuff in there?
I went back and shot each contact with electrical cleaner, then packed each connector with die-electric grease.

There was some dirt in the lower coil connections.

Trying to determine which coil is the 1+4 coil.

 
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Coil #1/#4 has Red/Black & Orange wires. Coil #2/#3 has Red/Black and Gray/Red wires. That makes the accessible coil directly under Panel A 2/3 and the harder to access coil down lower on the frame # 1/4.

Has this bike had the Barbarian Jumper done? If so, check the ECU connector. The Orange and Gray/Red wires on an '03 go directly from the ECU to the coils without passing through a connector. If it is a wiring problem it will be the ECU connector or the connectors at the coils. The +12 V power for the coils (R/B) share the same wire so it shouldn't be responsible for just one coil to drop out. Another possibility is that the Orange wire may have gotten damaged, either a chafe causing a short or pinched/break causing an intermittent connection.

diAG Code #30 in combination with toggling the red run switch off/on once will cause the 1/4 coil to fire 5 times with an accompanying flash of the yellow check engine light. Toggle the switch again and get another 5 firings.

 
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"Bike has NOT had the Barbarian Jumper done. Ok, Im missing your point"

"diAG Code #30 in combination with toggling the red run switch off/on once will cause the 1/4 coil to fire 5 times with an accompanying flash of the yellow check engine light. Toggle the switch again and get another 5 firings.

"
Why would I want to do this? Or is this the result of the Barbarian Jumper going off?

 
"Bike has NOT had the Barbarian Jumper done. Ok, Im missing your point"
"diAG Code #30 in combination with toggling the red run switch off/on once will cause the 1/4 coil to fire 5 times with an accompanying flash of the yellow check engine light. Toggle the switch again and get another 5 firings.

Why would I want to do this? Or is this the result of the Barbarian Jumper going off?
The reason I mention the Barbarian Jumper is that it requires the ECU connector to be disconnected and there have been some reports of not getting the connector correctly latched back on after the mod. In any case, the coil control signal wires are a direct run from the ECU to the coils so you may want to check the ECU connectors and ensure they are firmly plugged in.

If you experience failure or suspected failure of the 1/4 coil you could use diAG code #30 to assist in troubleshooting. It is a way to trigger the coil without having the engine running or limping along on 2 cylinders. If the yellow light fails to flash it confirms that there is a failure or your fix didn't 'take'. diAG code #31 lets you diddle the 2/3 coil in the same way.

 
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The reason I mention the Barbarian Jumper is that it requires the ECU connector to be disconnected and there have been some reports of not getting the connector correctly latched back on after the mod. In any case, the coil control signal wires are a direct run from the ECU to the coils so you may want to check the ECU connectors and ensure they are firmly plugged in.
If you experience failure or suspected failure of the 1/4 coil you could use diAG code #30 to assist in troubleshooting. It is a way to trigger the coil without having the engine running or limping along on 2 cylinders. If the yellow light fails to flash it confirms that there is a failure or your fix didn't 'take'.
All is revealed in the diagnostics section of the Yammi Repair Manual. You do have one, right?

 
I'm still perplexed about the tipover code. Out of curiosity how's the battery? I know it sounds odd, but a battery in its death throws will make electronics exhibit bizarre behavior. I can't tell what year FJR you have (hint,hint) but if it's a couple of years old you are likely reaching the batteries lifespan.

 
diAG Code #30 in combination with toggling the red run switch off/on once will cause the 1/4 coil to fire 5 times with an accompanying flash of the yellow check engine light. Toggle the switch again and get another 5 firings.
I just want to point out to the uninitiated that just because the yellow light flashes, it doesn't mean the coil is functioning properly; it only means the ECU is triggering the coil to fire.

You need to remove a spark plug and verify a spark. Or hook a spark detector to the wire if you have one. Good luck.

JC

 
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diAG Code #30 in combination with toggling the red run switch off/on once will cause the 1/4 coil to fire 5 times with an accompanying flash of the yellow check engine light. Toggle the switch again and get another 5 firings.
I just want to point out to the uninitiated that just because the yellow light flashes, it doesn't mean the coil is functioning properly; it only means the ECU is triggering the coil to fire.You need to remove a spark plug and verify a spark. Or hook a spark detector to the wire if you have one. Good luck.JC
As I mentioned in the first thread, the bike is running fine, now. Firing on all 4 cyls.
I'm still perplexed about the tipover code. Out of curiosity how's the battery? I know it sounds odd, but a battery in its death throws will make electronics exhibit bizarre behavior. I can't tell what year FJR you have (hint,hint) but if it's a couple of years old you are likely reaching the batteries lifespan.
The first thread say's its an '03, batterys fine. A failing Battery would not show in a bad coil code.
The reason I mention the Barbarian Jumper is that it requires the ECU connector to be disconnected and there have been some reports of not getting the connector correctly latched back on after the mod. In any case, the coil control signal wires are a direct run from the ECU to the coils so you may want to check the ECU connectors and ensure they are firmly plugged in.If you experience failure or suspected failure of the 1/4 coil you could use diAG code #30 to assist in troubleshooting. It is a way to trigger the coil without having the engine running or limping along on 2 cylinders. If the yellow light fails to flash it confirms that there is a failure or your fix didn't 'take'.
All is revealed in the diagnostics section of the Yammi Repair Manual. You do have one, right?
yes, I do. and Im using it.
Coil #1/#4 has Red/Black & Orange wires. Coil #2/#3 has Red/Black and Gray/Red wires. That makes the accessible coil directly under Panel A 2/3 and the harder to access coil down lower on the frame # 1/4.Has this bike had the Barbarian Jumper done? If so, check the ECU connector. The Orange and Gray/Red wires on an '03 go directly from the ECU to the coils without passing through a connector. If it is a wiring problem it will be the ECU connector or the connectors at the coils. The +12 V power for the coils (R/B) share the same wire so it shouldn't be responsible for just one coil to drop out. Another possibility is that the Orange wire may have gotten damaged, either a chafe causing a short or pinched/break causing an intermittent connection.diAG Code #30 in combination with toggling the red run switch off/on once will cause the 1/4 coil to fire 5 times with an accompanying flash of the yellow check engine light. Toggle the switch again and get another 5 firings.
Thanks for the info Ionman! Thanks to ALL of you who have helped!
 

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