Engine shims

[Constant Mesh]

https://www.jakewilson.com/vehicleSelectProd.do?prevVehicleType=11&prevMake=8&prevModel=4478&keyword=shims&vehicleTypeId=11&make=8&model=4478&applyFilter=Change+Vehicle&year=2004&navTitle=Motorcycle+Accessories&navType=type&webCatId=42&webTypeId=360&prodFamilyId=26634&stockId=&listingId=&uri=%2FproductDetail.do

Shims are typically available in 0.05 mm increments. This vendor offers shims in 0.025 mm increments at a fairly attractive price.

 

[SkooterG]

Ok, so I just saw this and might be trying this procedure on my own in the future. I like the fact that these are inexpensive and are available in finer increments than the 'kits'.

My question is for those that have been there and done that, is there certain specific sizes for the FJR that I can order ahead of time so I can have them on hand before I find out what exactly I will need?

 

[Patriot]

2 ea JB Weld

 

[johnny80s]

Ok, so I just saw this and might be trying this procedure on my own in the future. I like the fact that these are inexpensive and are available in finer increments than the 'kits'.

My question is for those that have been there and done that, is there certain specific sizes for the FJR that I can order ahead of time so I can have them on hand before I find out what exactly I will need?

Fred might know this. He started a thread a while ago asking about who had their valves adjusted. I think there was some details included about the shim size but I might be remembering wrong. When I did mine I just went to the dealer and bought the two I needed.

 

[dcarver]

Freaking Gen1 bigots....

Only avail 2003-2005 years...

Must mean gen 2's don't need adjustment.

 

[road runner]

I just did mine and remember using a lot of 180, and some 175, 170mm shims. I have to look at my notes to see exactly what I used. Although I did have a big selection of new and old shims from other bike to choose from which made it nice. Having some of the old factory shims makes it nice because they come in .02 mm increments instead of .05 like you can buy. So if there is a place that offers them in .025 that would be really nice.

 

[FJRay]

Freaking Gen1 bigots....

Only avail 2003-2005 years...

Must mean gen 2's don't need adjustment.

It's not that they don't need it, It's just not worth doing.

 

[SkooterG]

Freaking Gen1 bigots....

Only avail 2003-2005 years...

Must mean gen 2's don't need adjustment.

WTF?!?!?! Please tell me you are smarter than that. You DO work at a power plant, don't you?

I don't care what their website says, Engines between Gen I and Gen are identical for all practical purposes. If those work/fit on a Gen I motor, they will work on a Gen II motor.

Lay off the Mota my hippy friend.....

 

[SkooterG]

Oh, and does anybody have a specific type of feeler gauge to recommend. One that is metric? With small increments in the range we want? I once heard about a type that has an angle to them making it easier to insert?

 

[johnny80s]

Oh, and does anybody have a specific type of feeler gauge to recommend. One that is metric? With small increments in the range we want? I once heard about a type that has an angle to them making it easier to insert?

I just used my Craftsman set. I have both straight and angled. I think the angled were a little easier to use.

I recommend picking up some gasket tack. If you replace the valve cover gasket it will glue it in place so when you turn over the valve cover the gasket doesn't fall off. Permatex makes it.

 

[Fred W]

Answering the white courtesy phone...

The info that I collected on what shim sizes Yamaha uses, and which range of possible replacements one would need for a reshim is contained in this thread and poll: What Valve Shims Did You Require?

That thread showed that the nominal FJR original shim is ~ 180 (1.80mm) and the range of shims that one is likely to use is about 1.70 - 1.85.

If you are buying some feeler gauges I would recommend making the extra effort to find some metric ones as they will give you finer granularity in your measurements. .001 inches (generally the increment of inch based gauges) is equal to ~.025 mm. Since the metric gauges typically increment in .01mm steps, you get over twice the resolution by using them. That kind of accuracy isn't particularly important for just determining if you need to reshim or not, but rather what new shim value you want to put in there.

I know many folks prefer the angled feelers. I do not (I have both). I prefer the "feel" that you get when you flex the straight blade to fit in the gap. You can definitely use straight ones for all positions on an FJR. Just a personal preference. YMMV

PS - I never did end up forming up the "shim library" talked about in the thread. I decided to jump in and do my 2nd valve check one morning with no shims on hand and lucked out. No re-shim was required. Having some shims available in half size increments would be most excellent IMO.

 

[SkooterG]

If you are buying some feeler gauges I would recommend making the extra effort to find some metric ones as they will give you finer granularity in your measurements. .001 inches (generally the increment of inch based gauges) is equal to ~.025 mm. Since the metric gauges typically increment in .01mm steps, you get over twice the resolution by using them. That kind of accuracy isn't particularly important for just determining if you need to reshim or not, but rather what new shim value you want to put in there.

Fred, or anyone else for that matter - do you have any idea where to get a metric feeler gauge in .01mm increments? I sure as heck can't find one. The *only* increments I can find in metric are .05mm which would make the standard english units more fine in 'granularity'. Damn Fred, you give me a woody with that word! :wub:

 

[road runner]

Ok, so I just saw this and might be trying this procedure on my own in the future. I like the fact that these are inexpensive and are available in finer increments than the 'kits'.

My question is for those that have been there and done that, is there certain specific sizes for the FJR that I can order ahead of time so I can have them on hand before I find out what exactly I will need?

Scooter

Here's what I put in my engine, although I still have to put the cams in and double check the clearance. I'm shooting for the looser side of the spec. That will give it a longer service before reshimming, and the engine will think it has a smaller cam and have more bottom end (in theory).

Ex.= (?,175) (178,?) (181,182) (175,175)

In.= (180,180) (180,182) (180,180) (181,178)

The ? marks are shims that I couldn't read, but the clearance was OK so I left them in. I had to change all the intake, because they were on the tight side. Had to change 5 ex., 2 were loose and 3 were on the tight side.

 

[SkooterG]

Thanks!

 

[Zorlac]

do you have any idea where to get a metric feeler gauge in .01mm increments? I sure as heck can't find one.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-feeler-gauges/=fokmgs

 

[SkooterG]

do you have any idea where to get a metric feeler gauge in .01mm increments? I sure as heck can't find one.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-feeler-gauges/=fokmgs

Even those are .05 increments in the ranges we need them. (.15mm - .25mm)

Do you just combine different individual gauges to get get desired thickness? For example, combine the .15mm and .03mm to get .18mm?

 

[Fred W]

Do you just combine different individual gauges to get get desired thickness? For example, combine the .15mm and .03mm to get .18mm?

Yup, exactly how it's done.