Engine smell, noise, and low mileage

[dzuber76]

Performed a search but couldn't find much. Maybe not searching for the right keywords. Anyway, on the way home today I noticed a smell. Smells like clutch. Was hoping it was the car in front of me so I got home and left her running. Not much of a smell at first, but when I revved the engine a few times (up to 6-7000rpms) the smell was there. Lots of rain the past couple of days, but I wouldn't think that would produce this. Clutch isn't slipping when shifting and bike is running smooth. At the same time I noticed what I would describe as "valve tick" from the engine. This was normal on my previous bike, a Honda VTX. When the valves where in spec, they were noisy. Is this the case for the FJR? And for the last symptom, the bike hit reserve today at 152 miles. Put 4.8 gallons in which means I'm getting about 32 miles/gallon. Now I have twisted the throttle a few times on that tank, but even so...

I just bought this new-to-me '05 less than 2 weeks ago and am wondering if I need to open her up already. Could this be a CCT issue? The bike has 30K miles on it. Like I said, these are the only issues I've noticed. Shifting has been smooth now that I've adjusted.

Thanks for any input, gentlemen. Please don't flame a noob if I'm starting APRT.

 

[bhkfjr]

My bike went from a normal 44 mpg to 35 mpg after the exhaust cam was mistimed after a valve check. Do you have any maintenance history for the bike. I don't think a loose cam chain in itself causes any mpg decreases... it didn't with mine. However, I did think the noise I was hearing was excessive valve train clartter when it turned out to be the cam chain. Tensioner was replaced and all noise is gone.

Funny you bring up the odor issue. I've never seen it posted either but I also get a smell after riding in wet weather. Sort of like burning hair (or clutch plates ) but it's not always there and I can't reliably duplicate it. Therefor, I don't think it's anything mechanical and it's never been a problem, just more of a curiosity.

 

[SkooterG]

Smell after riding in wet weather is common to the FJR. FJR engine is a noisy one. Only worry if nuts & bolts noise is coming from lower right side of engine.

Ride more, stress less.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Edited this thing out as "Pink Dink" caught an fixed his error...

Go 'head an toss it ya want to Scoot.

:jester:

 

[dzuber76]

Ha ha! Yeah, I was wondering about the quotes, SkooterG, but your response was what I was thinking anyway. Valve clatter is just normal on some bikes, and that's what I was hoping for on the FJR. The smell thing is a relief. I'm just gonna take it easy on the throttle for this tank and see what happens with the mpg. Will also do some maintenance checks this weekend like brakes, air filter, etc. Dealer said they gave it a good servicing before my test ride, but I'll go ahead and double check everything.

 

[SkooterG]

Good job taquito dick Scooter :blink: Now ya got him all kinds of dinked up... :huh: :lol:

:jester:

How the #&!@* did that happen?

Fixed.......

 

[Geezer]

One thing worth checking is the brakes. Does the back wheel turn free with the bike in neutral on the center stand? You can check the front the same way, just have someone sit on the pillion seat while on the center stand to raise the front wheel off the ground. Brakes dragging will smell, and reduce mileage.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Smell could be water steaming off, gunk crud grease getting hot and smelling, brakes that are hot or just recently used.

The noise could be valve or CCT. Look up CCT issues, but usually the cam chain is noisy mainly at idle, sounds like something is loose inside.

Poor mileage could be dragging brake as pointed out by another poster, or a switch to a taller/wider windscreen, driving habits, etc.

My CCT thread.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

One thing worth checking is the brakes. Does the back wheel turn free with the bike in neutral on the center stand? You can check the front the same way, just have someone sit on the pillion seat while on the center stand to raise the front wheel off the ground. Brakes dragging will smell, and reduce mileage.

Another way to check the brakes is to go for a ride, and stop with just the back brake, check the ft rotors and see if their hot. If they are, their dragging.

Per the Yamaha manual, they say to replace the brake lines and caliber seals every 2 years.

My fronts on my 04 started dragging with approx 7,000 miles on the clock. You'd spin it and it would stop immediatly. Once I rebuilt the calibers with new seals, you can get 3/4 a spin when the ft tire is in the air...

I never had any problems with the rear brake, just flushed the fluid...

Scott

 

[dzuber76]

On the way home from work tonight, I tried the back brake experiment and when I got home the front rotors were warm, but not hot. Checked the free rotation and I'm getting about 1/5 a revolution to 3/4, so I'm taking it that's normal even though I can hear the front pads on the rotor when I spin it. I'll change the seals and lines anyway first chance I get. Also checked tire pressure. I should know not to blindly trust the dealer techs. Front was at 25 psi and rear was 30. Prolly contributing to the low mpgs too. Corrected that easy enough. In the meantime, I'm taking it very easy on the throttle for this tank, rarely letting it get above 3000 rpms before I shift (except for 5th, of course). As long as I know 32 mpg is normal if I'm really "enjoying the ride" then I have no one but myself to blame.

Thanks for the tips, guys. :clapping:

 

[Geezer]

Low tire pressure could explain your mileage problem. Get them up closer to 40 and you'll enjoy the ride a lot more. I run 39 to 40 in the front and 41 to 42 in the rear.

 

[dzuber76]

Low tire pressure could explain your mileage problem. Get them up closer to 40 and you'll enjoy the ride a lot more. I run 39 to 40 in the front and 41 to 42 in the rear.

Yeah, I kinda feel like a bonehead now for not checking that first thing. I think I set them at 39 front, 42 rear.

 

[Patriot]

Has the oil been changed lately...I ask that because when removing the oil filter, a pool of oil collects between the plastic and engine if precautions are not made. Possible for riding to heat that stuff up and make a smell.

See this procedure here:

https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=33

Avoiding the mess:

As seen in the drawing below, when you unthread the old oil filter, some of the oil (shown as orange) unavoidably drips down the engine case and runs over the lowest part of the fairing (small leg of bodywork underneath the oil filter). Invariably, some oil also finds it's way onto the exhaust line, too. So the owner has a little bit of a mess to clean up; you definitely don't want oil collecting in the bodywork crevices!

hope this might help.

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[03HiYoSilver]

I can hear the front pads on the rotor when I spin it. I'll change the seals and lines anyway first chance I get.

dzuber,

The front pads rubbing lightly is Normal, so I don't think you need to make any changes with it.

Good Luck with your FJR.

 

[dzuber76]

Hey Patriot,

The dealer said they put new oil and a fresh battery in her before I took her home, so that's a good possibility. I'll go 3000 miles and change to synthetic, but I'll definitely keep the spillage in mind.

03HiYoSilver,

Thanks. I'm gonna leave it alone for awhile, especially since all reports (and the results of the searches of this site) indicate that a little brake rub is normal. If it really needs to be done every 1 or 2 years, I'll get to it in the spring. After all, this is my only vehicle and I want it in tip-top.

 

[fjr mississippi]

Brake pads should drag a little to help prevent gunk and water from building up on pads and rotor

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your front calibers don't sound bad at all, mine would completly stop.

I run 40 lbs in the front and rear tire Bridgestone tires..

Do you know if they did a throttle sync?

 

[Pepperell]

The smell migh be road crud that lands on the catalytic converter. That puppy gets up to 1.35 Giga-degrees Kelvin, which can be verified by touching it with your tongue.

 

[S76]

Put 4.8 gallons in which means I'm getting about 32 miles/gallon. Now I have twisted the throttle a few times on that tank, but even so...

If you are getting 32MPG and are not running a PCIII most likely your cam chain timing is off. If the exhaust cam is one tooth retarted this is exactly what happens. The bike will run fine but get poor gas mileage, have a bad hesitation during mid corner throttle application, and not have the top end power it should. It will however, be extreemely smooth with almost no vibration in the 4000 RPM range. This may also explain the smell from the exhaust due to unburnt fuel activating the catalytic converter.

These engines do not make any clickety noises if the valves are adjusted correctly and the CCT is good.

Research Source:

School of hard knocks.