Engine stalling after AVCC install

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drmjf86

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Went to test my newly installed AVCC CCs-100 and discovered a problem even before I could put the AVCC to the test. The bike starts and idles fine in a completely upright position but stalls when I lean it onto the kickstand at idle. I was initially being miserly with the amount of gas I put into the tank to limit the mess created by removing and draining the tank if I had to do this to troubleshoot the AVCC wiring, plumbing, etc.. I figured that I just needed to add more gas as this only happened when the bike was leaned onto the kickstand. I repeatedly added more gas - approximately 8 oz at a time x 3 which I thought should be adequate if the problem was not enough gas - but the problem persisted. Without having removed the tank, it appeared that the vent hose was not kinked. Of note, I connected my vacuum tubing to the 2 right side ports which would be the highside when the bike is leaning onto its kickstand. I have check valves on both vacuum port lines as well as in the shared line back to the servo and vac reservoir and am fairly confident that these are all properly oriented - i.e., air flow direction from the servo/reservoir to the cylinders. However, I wouldn't think that this has anything to do with the vacuum plumbing as the problem is occuring without the CC even being turned on/set. And, if the problem was due to the vacuum plumbing, why would the problem not occur in the upright position.

I'm writing this from work so I can't check to see if my idle adjustment was inadvertently changed as I removed and reinstalled the idle adjustment cable, but I plan to check this. I also plan to disconnect the Y-shape" harness I made to attach the servo blue tach signal wire directly to the primary ignition coil where the gray/red (AKA orange) wire originally was connected and reattach the gray/red wire directly to the coil to see if an electrical problem there might be causing ignition coil circuit failure. I could play with DIP switch #7 - set it to ON as I followed earlier suggestions that OFF was the better position for gen II bikes. But, again, I don't see where any of these would be a "positional" problem and when the CC is not even on! Does the FJR have a lean angle kill switch which I might have disconnected and not reconnected or in some other way messed up while disconnecting/reconnecting the various wire harness connections for removal and replacing the plastic as well as tank, and fuel rail? But, I would expect a lean angle kill switch to cause abrupt cut off of the engine and not be preceded by sputtering. I did label everything before disconnecting things in order to reconnect them properly.

Finally, I should say that starting the bike after the AVCC install was the first time that it was started this Spring so it is feasible that the problem has nothing to do with the AVCC install. Any suggestions which would help me to get to the bottom of this as quickly as possible would be greatly apprectiated.

 
There is a lean angle switch but I would be surprised if running on the kickstand would trigger it. People warm the bikes up sitting on the stand all the time.

On the other hand, if it was removed and not fastened down, i.e. just hanging from the harness back there somewhere, maybe it's got a big head start to the left.

I think the lean angle sensor is up in the nose on Gen-II bikes, so I'm not sure how you would have moved it. On Gen-I bikes it is behind the tool tray under the seat.

But..... there's no reason to be so miserly with the gas. You don't have to drain it to remove it, and certainly don't have to drain it just to tip it up. When you remove the hose that feeds the fuel rail, a small amount will drip out of the fitting, but there's a valve that closes when the hose slides off.

 
The Dip switches only control the function of the AVCC, I would be curious if you are losing all electrical when it stalls on an angle, maybe an inadvertent short? All the AVCC connections only control the AVCC function, I am sure the Forum resident electrical engineer will weigh in on this issue. Calling Captain Ionbeam!

FWFE

 
Add more gas, 24oz is not enough to raise the gas level for the fuel pump if it's really low. If it's only doing it leaned over there not enough gas.

 
Add more gas, 24oz is not enough to raise the gas level for the fuel pump if it's really low. If it's only doing it leaned over there not enough gas.
I'll try this first and feel real stupid if that's all it was!

 
The Dip switches only control the function of the AVCC, I would be curious if you are losing all electrical when it stalls on an angle, maybe an inadvertent short? All the AVCC connections only control the AVCC function, I am sure the Forum resident electrical engineer will weigh in on this issue. Calling Captain Ionbeam!
FWFE
The lights remain on while it is sputtering and after it stalls out. If the 24 oz of gas I added isn't enough to feed the fuel pump - as suggested below - I'm guessing that is the problem!

 
Umm, do you hear the pump run when you turn on the key? You should be able to hear the pump run for several seconds. When it runs, what rpm does the tach show?

24 oz is less than a quart of fuel, go the extra 12 oz and get allllllll the way up to a quart. If you are feeling wild and adventurous, add a second quart too. It won't make any difference to taking the tank on and off or lifting the tank.

If you hear the fuel pump, have > qt of fuel and it still stalls after ~25 seconds, try capping the two ports on the FI rail and see if it runs. This shouldn't make a difference to the leaned/not leaned but it is an easy way to eliminate vacuum as the problem.

 
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Umm, do you hear the pump run when you turn on the key? You should be able to hear the pump run for several seconds. When it runs, what rpm does the tach show?
24 oz is less than a quart of fuel, go the extra 12 oz and get allllllll the way up to a quart. If you are feeling wild and adventurous, add a second quart too. It won't make any difference to taking the tank on and off or lifting the tank.

If you hear the fuel pump, have > qt of fuel and it still stalls after ~25 seconds, try capping the two ports on the FI rail and see if it runs. This shouldn't make a difference to the leaned/not leaned but it is an easy way to eliminate vacuum as the problem.
Dohhh! The problem was not enough gas. This was the 1st time I'd ever completely drained the tank and I had no idea how much was necessary to feed the fuel pump. Rocking the bike side to side resulted in a significant "swishing" sound which made me think there was probably enough. I've previously run the tank on some of my other bikes to what I thought was "dry" with much less "swishing". Took it for a test run and the CC seemed to work fine. My only other bike with CC is a Royal Star Venture which I haven't ridden for some time and on which I didn't use the CC much so I'm not sure if the AVCC is as smooth/responsive as the factory CC on the RSV. Should I expect it to be? It certainly doesn't compare to CC on my cars. Before I buttoned the bike back up I was tempted to remove 1 more bead from the chain as it seemed there would still be a little slack with just 6 beads instead of the oft recommended 7, but then I saw the "warning" in the AVCC installation manual to leave at least 7 beads to prevent possible "lock-up." That across-the-board recommendation didn't seem to make sense to me as one would think that different vehicles might allow the actuator cable end to be closer or farther from the throttle tab. Has anyone ever gone to 6 beads? Any problems with doing so? I probably won't do anything before I am able to remind myself how the RSV CC feels as I wouldn't expect to do better than a factory-installed CC.

 
...Took it for a test run and the CC seemed to work fine. My only other bike with CC is a Royal Star Venture which I haven't ridden for some time and on which I didn't use the CC much so I'm not sure if the AVCC is as smooth/responsive as the factory CC on the RSV. Should I expect it to be? It certainly doesn't compare to CC on my cars. Before I buttoned the bike back up I was tempted to remove 1 more bead from the chain as it seemed there would still be a little slack with just 6 beads instead of the oft recommended 7, but then I saw the "warning" in the AVCC installation manual to leave at least 7 beads to prevent possible "lock-up." That across-the-board recommendation didn't seem to make sense to me as one would think that different vehicles might allow the actuator cable end to be closer or farther from the throttle tab. Has anyone ever gone to 6 beads? Any problems with doing so? I probably won't do anything before I am able to remind myself how the RSV CC feels as I wouldn't expect to do better than a factory-installed CC.
It probably won't be as good as a factory designed and fitted unit, so much depends on the engine characteristics, power, weight, gearing, throttle response ...

Mine allows 1 or 2 mph variation when going up or down hills, it sometimes jerks a bit when "resuming", it will surge a little when initially setting, definitely not as good as (for instance) my wife's Audi A3's CC.

But it saves my right wrist on long hauls, and probably has saved me a few tickets, so it does its job well enough.

 
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