ESG130 upgrade

[Donal]

If you do decide to install the Electrosport alternator you might want to consider replacing your Regulator Rectifier at the same time.

The RRs fitted to the Gen 1 bikes were the old 'Crowbar' type. That is they controlled the alternator output by continuously loading it. Works something like the old zener diodes. Only problem is the alternator is always fully loaded no matter what actual bike loads are being supplied. The new type (as fitted to the superior gen 2) are MOSFET and work by 'limiting' the output so the alternator only works in response to actual load.

There is some info here

and you should be able to find a RR on Ebay.

Don

 

[Matt101]

Thanks Don. Is the FH012 the RR I require for the upgrade?

Sorry to keep asking questions but I am new to this side of the upgrade process.

Matt

 

[Donal]

Thanks Don. Is the FH012 the RR I require for the upgrade?

Sorry to keep asking questions but I am new to this side of the upgrade process.

Matt

Hi Matt, yes that should do the trick. if I come across anything I will let you know.

Don

 

[Matt101]

If you do decide to install the Electrosport alternator you might want to consider replacing your Regulator Rectifier at the same time.

The RRs fitted to the Gen 1 bikes were the old 'Crowbar' type. That is they controlled the alternator output by continuously loading it. Works something like the old zener diodes. Only problem is the alternator is always fully loaded no matter what actual bike loads are being supplied. The new type (as fitted to the superior gen 2) are MOSFET and work by 'limiting' the output so the alternator only works in response to actual load.

There is some info here

and you should be able to find a RR on Ebay.

Don

Hi Don

I contacted Electrosport about this. According to their guy..........

Hi Matt,

The ESG130 stator works perfectly fine together with the OEM regulator/rectifier. I have that combination in my own 2005 FJR too. It provides a total of 500W, which is about 100W more than the stock stator.

This upgrade allows you to double the amount of accessories on the FJR because the bike needs about 300W to run the stock lighting, ignition and fuel injection and keep the battery charged. After installing the ESG130 stator you have 200W of accessory power available compared to around 100W with the stock stator.

Please let me know if you need any further information.

With best regards,

Ritzo Muntinga

--------------------------------------------------

Procom Engineering - ElectroSport

66 Maxwell, Irvine, CA 92618, USA

Tel: +1 (949) 748-6338 - Fax: +1 (949) 748-6339

www.procomeng.com - www.electrosport.com

Now as mine is an '04' I should assume my set up is the same? Or do you still recommend the change? I don't understand the MOSFET thing! :blink: I assume this is a better system and would reduce the load placed on the alternator/stator.

 

[Donal]

If you do decide to install the Electrosport alternator you might want to consider replacing your Regulator Rectifier at the same time.

The RRs fitted to the Gen 1 bikes were the old 'Crowbar' type. That is they controlled the alternator output by continuously loading it. Works something like the old zener diodes. Only problem is the alternator is always fully loaded no matter what actual bike loads are being supplied. The new type (as fitted to the superior gen 2) are MOSFET and work by 'limiting' the output so the alternator only works in response to actual load.

There is some info here

and you should be able to find a RR on Ebay.

Don

Hi Don

I contacted Electrosport about this. According to their guy..........

Hi Matt,

The ESG130 stator works perfectly fine together with the OEM regulator/rectifier. I have that combination in my own 2005 FJR too. It provides a total of 500W, which is about 100W more than the stock stator.

This upgrade allows you to double the amount of accessories on the FJR because the bike needs about 300W to run the stock lighting, ignition and fuel injection and keep the battery charged. After installing the ESG130 stator you have 200W of accessory power available compared to around 100W with the stock stator.

Please let me know if you need any further information.

With best regards,

Ritzo Muntinga

--------------------------------------------------

Procom Engineering - ElectroSport

66 Maxwell, Irvine, CA 92618, USA

Tel: +1 (949) 748-6338 - Fax: +1 (949) 748-6339

www.procomeng.com - www.electrosport.com

Now as mine is an '04' I should assume my set up is the same? Or do you still recommend the change? I don't understand the MOSFET thing! :blink: I assume this is a better system and would reduce the load placed on the alternator/stator.

Your new stator will 'work' with the old RR but as I said above the stator will be 'working' fully loaded at all times with the old type RR. The MOSFETS are just heavy duty transistors which control the output of the alternator in response to voltage. i.e. If the voltage appears to drop the output will increase, if the voltage is normal/rises the output will decrease.

As Ritzo said above it will work but there have been several reports of the new stators going tits up at about 30,000 miles. If it were me I would install the new type RR but YMMV

It would be helpful if some of the resident experts were to chime in here

Don

 

[wheatonFJR]

It would be helpful if some of the resident experts were to chime in here

Don

Alan, what say you?

 

[Donal]

I've done a bit more digging into this and it looks like I may have been confused (not unusual)

Here's a link to the Shindengen site with brief descriptions of their products

It looks like the FH012 is in fact a FET Shunt Style regulator; that is it regulates by 'shunting' current to limit the voltage. The only advantage over the old style is the FETs have much lower internal resistance and apparently generate less heat at the regulator.

They do a Series style regulator SH775 with two higher output units still under development. That would perform as I thought the FH012 would :dribble:

Bottom line Matt, I gave you a 'bum steer' so just forget everything I said and carry on with the installation of your new stator.

Don

 

[ionbeam]

...It looks like the FH012 is in fact a FET Shunt Style regulator; that is it regulates by 'shunting' current to limit the voltage. The only advantage over the old style is the FETs have much lower internal resistance and apparently generate less heat at the regulator...

BINGO! Most excellent understanding of what is going on. The FH012 is a shunt regulator just like the OEM, the only difference is the efficiency of the MOSFETs. The one great unknown is if there has been a design change in the output voltage regulator. By all accounts the FH012 demonstrates improved voltage regulation.

 

[Matt101]

Thanks for that guys.

So yes or no for the new RR. Is it worth it for the money? Even at 30,000 miles would be about 2-3 years riding for me. Worth the trade off and I can always get the stator re-wound over here. What do you think?

 

[wheatonFJR]

Thanks for that guys.

So yes or no for the new RR. Is it worth it for the money? Even at 30,000 miles would be about 2-3 years riding for me. Worth the trade off and I can always get the stator re-wound over here. What do you think?

Instead of a new RR, I would look at seeing if there is a better stator out there. But that wasn't your question...so I apologize.

 

[Matt101]

Thanks for that guys.

So yes or no for the new RR. Is it worth it for the money? Even at 30,000 miles would be about 2-3 years riding for me. Worth the trade off and I can always get the stator re-wound over here. What do you think?

Instead of a new RR, I would look at seeing if there is a better stator out there. But that wasn't your question...so I apologize.

Well there is a better stator. The OE Yamaha one but they get snapped up by various people. Even the Triumphrat boys are nicking them!! :angry2:

 

[ionbeam]

So yes or no for the new RR. Is it worth it for the money? Even at 30,000 miles would be about 2-3 years riding for me. Worth the trade off and I can always get the stator re-wound over here. What do you think?

The OEM R/R is pretty bullet proof even though it does run hot because it is inefficient. There is no real performance gain to be had with a Shindengen R/R other than it runs cooler (note that it still has a burly heat sink).

By the stated numbers the Yamaha OEM stator puts out 490W @ 5,000 rpm. The ES stator claims 590W @ 5,000 rpm. That is a 17% power increase with little change in physical size and no additional cooling for the High Output stator. As such the HO stator is under a lot of thermal stress and this results in significantly shortened life expectancy. Don't be surprised if your ES stator fails in the 30k mile range. I have fried stators and so have a number of others. I had a different motorcycle electrical company tell me that 30k miles is actually pretty good for that amount of power increase.

===========

Reader's Digest condensed version: The stator puts out as much power as it can until 5k rpm where it reaches maximum power output and from there on the power output remains flat. When your FJR draws less than maximum power the voltage regulator will shunt all the extra power to ground resulting in a really hot regulator. The regulator will continue to dump power to ground until your FJR draws all the power that the stator can produce. If you install a HO stator it will produce more watts than the stock stator all the time, but if this extra power isn't being consumed by the motorcycle it will get shunted to ground. Since the HO stator makes more watts it gets extra hot as the extra power gets dumped to ground, hence one of the main contributing factors for the early death syndrome.

 

[ionbeam]

...Well there is a better stator. The OE Yamaha one but they get snapped up by various people. Even the Triumphrat boys are nicking them!! :angry2:

If they are just taking the stator they are getting only part of the benefit. The other half of the equation is the rotor. The strength of the rotor magnets will make a difference in how excited the stator gets :wub: