Extremely Tight Oil Drain Plug

[radman]

I use a 1" drive impact to install the drain plug (though I have to lay the bike on it's side to fit it in there, the sidestand is happy to cooperate), along with some red Loctite and 2 crush washers, just to be sure. Hey, if it's good enough for Yamaha.........

 

[Ignacio]

I use a 1" drive impact to install the drain plug...

I only have a 3/4" socket, but use a 6 foot cheater bar. Then I tack weld it in 3 spots, apply aircraft wire, and encase it all in epoxy.

I've never had a leak.

 

[Big Sky]

Ignacio's method is spot on. If he's like me, he just changes oil, filter and pan every 3,000.

 

[Ignacio]

Ignacio's method is spot on. If he's like me, he just changes oil, filter and pan every 3,000.

3,000? I thought it was 30,000?

Damn, I guess I'm going to have to stop the epoxy part....and I'm about 26,500 overdue. :blink:

 

[user 213]

My roadstar didn't use crush washers. It had an aluminum pan and steel bolt.

:huh: Oh really, then this part was missing from your bike - 214-11198-01-00. That's the crush washer you're supposed to use on a RoadStar(1700).

Part of the point to having a crush washer is to avoid the steel bolt from damaging the aluminum threads. You won't find an application in the moto or auto world that doesn't use some form of crush washer in that application, be it a hollow washer that is crushed one time, or an aluminum or copper washer that has give each time it's torqued down.

And Iggy, what's this about changing the oil? It had oil in it from the factory, why would you change it? :wacko:

 

[Lee B.]

The crush washers are okay for several uses if you tighten this way. You crush a bit more each change.

I disagree with that. The crush washers I take off are flatter than a pancake. I don't see them crushing any more on subsequent tightenings. Manual says to replace the crush washer. I am just a saying.

Lots of folks re-use them with no problems but they only crush once. I've got about 20 on hand and always replace them.

definitely the safe approach.

I reused the one from the first change adn so far no leaky.

I will keep an eye on it but then I always do anyway.

I did wonder about the use it four times advice....

 

[C&C]

The crush washers primary job is to match the unevenness of the forged bolt's flat surface to the machined flat surface of the oilpan. (that is why there are two distinct sides to the washer) And according to the service manual, replacement is only required, if after inspection, it is found to be damaged.

 

[ELP_JC]

Mine was tight as hell. I do have a big compressor and impact wrenches, but I always try with the 1/2" ratchet and a hammer on delicate aluminum, and it worked like a charm on the FJR. Applying a steady force requires a ton more torque to break the drain plug loose, which is not good on an unsteady bike anyway.

As far as the crush washer, the one on the FJR is crap. And yes, it was basically fused to the drain plug on mine. Took me an hour to remove, which was better than waiting a week for a new one, but for a few bucks buying a new one (if available) is the best thing to do in such cases. I used a Honda aluminum crush washer, which is the proper kind IMO, and a perfect fit. Also replaced the final drive one, which wasn't nearly as tight. Good evening gang.

JC