Factory heated grips < $100

[TahoeBound]

my question is - are the yamaha heated grips any good? are they designed for easy (good looking) install?
i don't mind paying more for them (over the honda) if it is a really good product - and especially if they are plug and play ready!

thx/ al

So, I've installed the Honda grips - I love the controller & wiring harness is pretty close as far as fitting to the FJR - however, the grips are too hard in my opinion. I've removed them. I will keep the Honda controller & harness but wire in Dual Stars elements and BMW grips are already on.

Is plug & play is worth it, I've heard good things on the Yamaha. Plug and play is big. Would I pay $385 for heated grips - nope. And I'm BIG on plug & play. I recently installed the high dollar MCCruise. I will no longer pay $385 for grips nor another $960 for Mccruise. I've even written Yamaha twice on the ridiculous gouge - they do seem to listen if enough reply. I've also written them regarding an OEM optional cruise. I could not own the FJR ('04, or now my '08) w/o electronic cruise. My two cents though I didn't answer your question Just a topic close to my heart recently...

 

[s_boy]

thanks for your input - $385 is high - but i would still bite the bullet on that price for a a well thought out kit, that works very well, and looks factory installed. besides i would only consider the price difference from the OEM heated grips and the total price of trying to rig up something that works equally as good or better. still hoping some folks with the yamaha kits installed will chime in.

thx/ al

 

[ionbeam]

The Yamaha heated grip kit for the Gen I was a universal kit that came with bits and pieces to let you tap into the wiring harness. The ugly heat controller got stuck over the clutch reservoir. The heat controller works well and the controller/grips allow plenty of heat. The grips are hard and shorter than the stock grips. The harness connectors are fat, numerous and hard to hide unless you cut them off and spliced the wires together.

The Honda kit can be added to both the Gen I and Gen II. The controller works well and the controller/grips allow plenty of heat. The heat controller looks worlds better than the Gen I Yamaha heat controller. The grips are hard.

The third party to this discussion is the Gen II heat controller which is stock on the AE, seek out an AE at a dealer and you can see what it looks like. The heat controller fits in the knock-out panel on the left fairing and it looks like it is supposed to go there :blink: The controller and grips plug right into the connectors that are in all Gen II wiring harnesses, slick and out of sight. Heated grips can be power hogs but the electrical system does not output full power until 5k rpm. To keep all parties happy, as you slow down and rpms drop to ~1.5k rpm the heat controller will cut power by 50% to take some load off the electrical system. As you have discovered this kit is nearly $400 if you don't discount shop.

For a lot less you can get Mylar tape heaters that wrap around the handle bar and then put on the grips of your choice. The latest generation of Heat Trollers (Warm 'n Safe) allows you to mount just the knob on a panel and then neatly run the wires out of sight. Some work is involved, how neat it looks is up to your efforts.





[SIZE=10pt](Clickable Pixs)[/SIZE]

 

[zip]

For a lot less you can get Mylar tape heaters that wrap around the handle bar and then put on the grips of your choice. The latest generation of Heat Trollers (Warm 'n Safe) allows you to mount just the knob on a panel and then neatly run the wires out of sight. Some work is involved, how neat it looks is up to your efforts.

Alan, how long would it take to install this? I'm pretty new to all this. Will it involve taking the gas tank off or other complicated maneuvers of that kind?

I was looking at the Honda solution, but this sounds a bit more appealing and effective.

 

[ionbeam]

The heated tape kits are not real hard to install. This is an overview of the major steps:

• remove the stock grips, this can be a pain in the *** -- LMK if you do this and I can offer some tips
• power the Heat Troller through an ignition switched relay, you really want to do this
• install the afore mentioned relay, choose something like a front signal light for the switched ignition source
• drill and install the heat knob
• tie down the heat controller someplace, and connect the power wires to the relay and chassis ground
• attach the heat tape to the throttle tube (the tube will heat insulate the heater from the metal bar)
• tape or heat shrink the clutch side bar and attach the tape (this heat insulates the metal bar and allows side to side heat balance)
• run the tape heater wires to the Heat Troller, if you take some care the wires will not be visible to a casual glance
• slip on new grips
• test
• reassemble
• done
• enjoy

How much you have to remove and do depends on your ambition. You will probably have to remove at least Panels A to D. If you do not want to install a power distribution at this time you probably won’t have to raise the tank (at no point would you need to remove the tank).

 

[s_boy]

The Yamaha heated grip kit for the Gen I was a universal kit that came with bits and pieces to let you tap into the wiring harness. The ugly heat controller got stuck over the clutch reservoir. The heat controller works well and the controller/grips allow plenty of heat. The grips are hard and shorter than the stock grips. The harness connectors are fat, numerous and hard to hide unless you cut them off and spliced the wires together.
The Honda kit can be added to both the Gen I and Gen II. The controller works well and the controller/grips allow plenty of heat. The heat controller looks worlds better than the Gen I Yamaha heat controller. The grips are hard.

The third party to this discussion is the Gen II heat controller which is stock on the AE, seek out an AE at a dealer and you can see what it looks like. The heat controller fits in the knock-out panel on the left fairing and it looks like it is supposed to go there :blink: The controller and grips plug right into the connectors that are in all Gen II wiring harnesses, slick and out of sight. Heated grips can be power hogs but the electrical system does not output full power until 5k rpm. To keep all parties happy, as you slow down and rpms drop to ~1.5k rpm the heat controller will cut power by 50% to take some load off the electrical system. As you have discovered this kit is nearly $400 if you don't discount shop.

For a lot less you can get Mylar tape heaters that wrap around the handle bar and then put on the grips of your choice. The latest generation of Heat Trollers (Warm 'n Safe) allows you to mount just the knob on a panel and then neatly run the wires out of sight. Some work is involved, how neat it looks is up to your efforts.

thanks.

years ago, i installed a set of 'stars', some after market grips, and a radio shack relay on my old concours. it worked fairly good on 'high' stting but the 'low' was useless. i took my time, had fun with it and did a good job of installing, but the conc wasn't designed or prewired for a better set-up. if it had been, perhaps i would have done different

however, as you describe the yamaha kit and it's various built in monitoring capabilities and plug in design - while i'm not rich - i can see why it runs close to $4bills.

i like what i'm hearing and leaning that way for now.

thanks again/ al

edit - i found the OEM kit on i'net for $309

https://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/catalo...warmer-kit.aspx

 

[TahoeBound]

$309 is the best price I've seen (but still $$$). If you go that way I don't blame you, but those grips, Honda or Yamaha are pretty hard.

If you decide to wire up DS or Symtecs, you can use Yamaha's heated grip plug directly (which is what I used for the Honda's). It takes a 7/64 (or .110) connector from Rat Shack. I'm working on an OEM-style connector & may have found a Sumitumo from Eastern Beaver. Trying to get confirmation if it fits the grip connector & disabled auto-retract (2 great sources for switched power).

 

[mmorgan24]

How much bigger are the honda elec grips than the fact 04 FJR grips? I want to solve the D#$*(*#$( buzz in the bars, get some heat and get a little bit bigger grips. I already have huge bar ends, sync throttle bodies and PC3. I really can't stand the buzz and will do whatever to solve it or sell the bike. I've been bothered by this for three (3) years and it keeps the miles down on it.

 

[TahoeBound]

How much bigger are the honda elec grips than the fact 04 FJR grips? I want to solve the D#$*(*#$( buzz in the bars, get some heat and get a little bit bigger grips. I already have huge bar ends, sync throttle bodies and PC3. I really can't stand the buzz and will do whatever to solve it or sell the bike. I've been bothered by this for three (3) years and it keeps the miles down on it.

If you want to get rid of the buzz & get heat, stay away from OEM Honda or Yamaha grips UNLESS you add Grip Puppies. OEM grips are HARD. And GP's were WAY too thick for me. On hindsight, I'd go with straight DualStars or Symtec (with maybe the heat troller thought the toggle on my '04 was just fine) and use BMW grips.

I've heard good things on the Helibar Tour Performance triple clamp but that's about $325. Then again, that & the DS's would be about the same as OEM heated grips - LOL!!

[edit: Currently, on my '08 I have the Honda OEM controller/wiring & the Dual Star elements & BMW Grips. I really like the looks of the Honda controller but you can't see it from the seating position if mounted where the OEM Yamaha controller goes, not to mention the digital is hard to read in daylight. Again, in hindsight, I'd go with the DS & Heat Troller solution & mount the controller where you can see it from sitting ! ]

 

[FjrVfr]

I'm with Tahoe. Before shelling out $300+ for Honda/Yamaha heated grips that give you no choices as far as the grip itself, please have a look at my post about what I went through. It's an easy farkle and costs less than $100 if you just put your mind (and wire cutters) to it. I've not ridden with factory grips but I can't imagine they get any hotter than mine which still have variable control.

 

[mmorgan24]

Thanks - I think some dual stars, some heat contoller, G2 throttle tube will do the trick for a lot less - the BMW grips are short I thought, but I saw on CA sport that Pro Grips has a 22-25mm grip that is 135mm long (is that the right one?). Gotta get this bike a little warmer for winter (even in the south) as the Diesel get's about 12 MPG (it does have heated seats though!).

https://www.casporttouring.com/store/mercha...duct_code=16318

 

[TahoeBound]

the BMW grips are short

Yes, but I've found they stretch & cover the distance fine.

 

[cyclemed]

Looking to go the Dual Star / Heat Troller kit, but not sure the difference between the $80 and $90 kit.

Which do I need for my 06A model? I see the difference is in the Heat Troller, not the grips but not sure the difference.

Thanks,

 

[cruiser394]

I purchased the Yamaha OEM heated grips and the install went quickly and easily. That is, until it came time to connect the ground connections on the grip wiring harness to the wiring harness on the bike. The grip heater harness has two connectors for the ground and the directions seem to indicate they plug into the headlight wiring harness. I cannot find that connection. Do I need to remove the front of the fairing? Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[SCRider]

paulie, your BigBike Parts link is broken but I think you are looking at grips like this: (clickable pic)


If so, this grip kit is sold at brand motorcycle shops via their Parts America catalog. Usually the price is in the $70 range and they are listed as Goldwing grip heaters.

This looks exactly like the "Trackside Deluxe Heated Grips" that I picked up at my local Cycle Gear for $55. They are short by about 1/4" but this worked out well because I have a Vista Cruise that takes up the extra space. I also had to wrap aluminum duct tape around the throttle tube because the inside diameter of the throttle side grip was about .010" too large. I wired them to my Fuzeblock on a switched circuit. They work so well that I was able to wear my summer vented gloves on a ride last weekend with low 40s temps.

Some pics:

SCRider

 

[PhilMills]

Put me in the camp of people who think $300+ to replace your AE's handgrips when they wear out is pretty insane. That said, the OEM grips do a very nice job and the controller does look like it belongs there...

Has anybody looked at whether you can whack some connectors off and wire in any of the aftermarket "grip tape" heaters to the OEM Yamaha controller and its fancy speed-sensitive features?

I'm putting off my G2 install because of the thought of having to replace those stupid $320, epoxied-on OEM grips if I fat-finger it. Seriously, what the heck was Yamaha thinking - $300+ for a part that's CERTAIN to wear out... I'd have stayed with BMW if I'd wanted to spend money that frivolously.

 

[RZ350]

Just a quick update for those adding grip heaters to a 2007 A model (and maybe others)...

I tied into the stock heated grip connector in the harness to power up my Bike Bike Parts grip set. What I found on the electrical schematic and while testing is that the green/blue wire is only powered when the headlights are on because the grip circuit ties in after the headlight relay. On my bike, the headlights don't come on until after the engine is started. This means there is no risk of draining the battery (at least, not worse than normal) if you switch the ignition on for a while without running the engine.

BTW, I bought the 5" long version and stock bar end weights works perfect with a Vista-Cruise on the right and mounting plate the FRS PPT button on the left taking up the extra 1/4".

 

[ionbeam]

A tip-off that you have the Yama knock off grip heater is the power indicator LED. Not only are these controller less expensive, they are cheap too

These grip heaters will be adequate for those that live in warmer climes but won't cut it for real cold weather riding. These grips can only accept ~1/2 the power of the real Yamaha kit or the various heat tapes with a Heat Troller. I've tried them below 40°F and they don't cut it. Also, the way this heat controller produces power is different from from any quality controller like Yamaha and Heat Troller controllers. The inexpensive/cheap controller will pound your electrical system and may interfere with music/communications equipment.

The stock Gen II electrical system can run heat tapes and almost any other heated grips & controllers just fine. Motorcycle heated grip kits max out at around 36 watts which is the same power expectation that the Gen IIs electrical system has.

 

[Harald]

Just a quick update for those adding grip heaters to a 2007 A model (and maybe others)...
I tied into the stock heated grip connector in the harness to power up my Bike Bike Parts grip set. What I found on the electrical schematic and while testing is that the green/blue wire is only powered when the headlights are on because the grip circuit ties in after the headlight relay. On my bike, the headlights don't come on until after the engine is started. This means there is no risk of draining the battery (at least, not worse than normal) if you switch the ignition on for a while without running the engine.

BTW, I bought the 5" long version and stock bar end weights works perfect with a Vista-Cruise on the right and mounting plate the FRS PPT button on the left taking up the extra 1/4".

I tried using the same wiring to run my heated grips (ST1300 grips) on my FJR. I found that there's too much voltage drop on this wire because it caused the Honda heat controller to go into load shedding mode. After rewiring my grips using larger gauge wiring to power, I no longer have a problem. So if what Ionbeam says is true (and he knows what he's talking about), then your grips will produce even less heat due to the excess voltage drop.

 

[dbx]

Has anybody looked at whether you can whack some connectors off and wire in any of the aftermarket "grip tape" heaters to the OEM Yamaha controller and its fancy speed-sensitive features?

That's exactly what I just did. I have an '07 AE and hated the hard OEM grips so I yanked them off and replaced them with Symtec heaters and Pro Grip model 698 gel grips. MUCH MUCH better! I retained the pair of connectors that are part of the stock harness in case I need an easy way to disconnect things for future replacement, etc.

I selected the 6-7 Ohm loop on each heater, then wired them in parallel to get about 3.5 Ohms, or about 55 Watts. For comparison purposes, the stock grips are about 2 Ohms each and are wired in series for a total load of 4 Ohms or about 48 Watts.

Motorcycle heated grip kits max out at around 36 watts which is the same power expectation that the Gen IIs electrical system has.

I think that's a bit low for the stock setup, at least as measured by my 30 year old VOM. Also, with the Dual Stars or Symtec heaters, you have a multitude of ways to wire them up, giving you anywhere from a few Watts to nearly 90 Watts. Of course, both extremes are completely worthless, for different reasons As I mentioned above, I went with about 55 Watts. I know a Heat-Troller would be fine with that load, I just hope the OEM controller is as robust or I'll end up with a H-T anyway.