fall maintenance

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64Y80

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I went under the hood for the first time on this bike and was pleasanly surprised how easy it is to work on.

First thing I did was remove the PAIR system and install the wynpro block off plates. I was surprised at the amount of carbon build up on the bottom of the cover plates.

Second, I replaced the spark plugs. It looks like the #2 plug was having some blow by like it wasn't torqued properly or the crush washer was defective.

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Third, I did a TBS, it really didn't need it, but I adjusted it some to make it a little better.

Fourth, changed the oil.

I am now ready for next spring.

 
I did the same thing over the weekend. Mine has 8,000 miles on her. I noticed many of the same things you did. A couple of things you may want to look at:

Clutch lever pivots

Front Brake lever pivot

Rear Brake pivot

Shifter Lever Pivot

It was unreal how gunked up the clutch lever and shifter lever pivots were @ 8,000 miles. I also had a good bit of corrosion around the side stand bolts and the brass bushings of the Clutch lever.

My bike seems to shift a little smoother now, but it might be my imagination.

 
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Thanks for reminding me about the rear brake pivot, I mean to get to it along with looking over the whole rear suspension linkage pivots. It's a long winter, I'll probably think of a few other things to do as well. :D

 
After 20K miles this year, I have a blown fork seal, and need to do the valve checks, steering head lube and torque, final drive, air filter, spark plugs (again), swing arm lube, coolant change, brake and clutch fluid, TBS, and tires. Wish me luck. Glad yours was so easy.

 
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After 20K miles this year, I have a blown fork seal, and need to do the valve checks, steering head lube and torque, final drive, air filter, spark plugs (again), swing arm lube, coolant change, brake and clutch fluid, TBS, and tires. Wish me luck. Glad yours was so easy.
Good luck to you sir. My track record for working on bikes has not been good. I have a way of turning simple maintenance tasks into total nightmares. The fact that I was able to do a few things, put it back together and have no parts left over, and then have it start tickled me pink. Some day I may feel confident enough to tackle a list like yours, just not yet.

 
I did the Seal-Mate trick using a piece of plastic packing I had cut to the same shape. The fork seal has re-seated and does not leak. I will change the oil and may change the oil seal, but I think I will pass on replacing the bushings for now.

 
I finished up my fall maintenance/winterizing today. Even though my bike has just under 6,000 miles, (an 07 bought as a garage queen in August with 2700 miles) it is almost five years old now and I dont think anything has been done by the previous owner except an oil change. The list of services and repairs got pretty long.

Replaced stock tires with Pirelli Angel STs

Changed final drive fluid

Lubed drive shaft splines (bone dry)

Lubed universal joint splines

Changed oil with Mobil 1 4T Racing 10w-40

Changed hydraulic clutch fluid

Changed brake fluid

Changed coolant

Cleaned brake pads, pistons and calipers

Wiped down brake rotors with solvent

Lubed clutch and brake lever pivots (clutch was pretty gummed up)

Cleaned and lubed shift lever pivot

Replaced double sided tape on windscreen arm gasket

Installed Yamaha heated grip kit (very nice)

Installed Battery Tender cable

Painted left mirror/scratch repair (waiting to get it back from Garauld)

Cleaned and detailed entire bike while bodywork was off

Charged battery and topped off gas tank with gas+Seafoam

Pushed it in the corner of the garage and put my cover over it. It should be good for the winter and ready to roll in the spring. The left side is easily accessible when I get my mirror back. Nothing left to do but bolt the mirror back on and give the battery an occasional charge.

I was pleased that the bike is pretty straight forward to work on. Good stuff.

 
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As long as this old thread is bumped, I completed the rest of the tasks today with the rebuild of the front fork seals, bushings, oil etc. So my list is:

Replaced PR2 tires at 11Kmiles with Michelin PR3s

New fork oil, seals, dust seals, slides

Valve clearance check

Changed CCT

Installed Wynpro AIR induction plates

New plugs

New air filter

Unofficial Throttle Body Sync

Changed final drive fluid

Lubed drive shaft splines

Lubed universal joint splines

Changed oil with Rotella T6 5W-40

Changed hydraulic clutch fluid

Changed brake fluid

Changed coolant

Cleaned brake pads, pistons and calipers

Wiped down brake rotors with solvent

Lubed clutch and brake lever pivots (clutch was pretty gummed up)

Cleaned and lubed most pivot joints except main suspension arm

Installed Chromeit heat fixes

Replaced glove-box with broken latch with Hans' glove box. Thanks to Hans for taking good care of it, and Hycle for the deal.

I'm pretty sure we are sometimes pilots, and sometimes aircraft mechanics...You do the miles you pay the price. It's nice doing the work yourself as it affords you a chance to become one with the fecking bike. I have more confidence that things are right after all that, and it is running great. Glad it's done for now.

 
It's nice doing the work yourself as it affords you a chance to become one with the fecking bike. I have more confidence that things are right after all that, and it is running great.
I couldn't agree more. It's good for you, it's good for the bike. Plus, as the weather goes down the drain, it gives me a reason to spend some time in the garage messing with the bike

 
Na...No I don't! :****:
HRZ, no hold on riding season here...this is a Gen I bike and goes all year. I did 23K miles this year and had to fit the maintenance into a mid-week stretch. It rained this morning, so I figured with sun predicted through the 7-day forecast, I'd finish this out. Jetpilot is in IL and out for the count, but I don't winterize, Who's of guessed FJRs are just a snow-sport alternative?

I'm kinda jonesing to go skiing, and at this point, mother nature has not delivered for the Sierra. I'm actually surprised the seasonal passes are closed.

 
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HRZ, no hold on riding season here...this is a Gen I bike and goes all year. I did 23K miles this year and had to fit the maintenance into a mid-week stretch. It rained this morning, so I figured with sun predicted through the 7-day forecast, I'd finish this out. Jetpilot is in IL and out for the count, but I don't winterize, Who's of guessed FJRs are just a snow-sport alternative.
Haha...I'm just being an ass. Actually, I've never seen it all listed out like that. I don't usually do it all in one pop. I spread it out so I don't get stuck on sumthin that takes the bike out for a week.

Next change I gotta do, oil & filter, plugs, rear pumpkin and WynPro plates. Its actually fun working on my bike, but I'd rather be riding it.

 
Haha...I'm just being an ass.
Hey AJ, thanks for the warning. :lol:

To the OP, I think Ashe has a great winter checklist for those of us doomed to four actual weather seasons. I believe he suggests suspension maintenance (forks,etc) rad maint., and brake maintenance as well.

 
Can I just ask...pure curiosity... what is the function of this PAIR system then?
Pulse AIR Induction System (PAIR) allows the introduction of fresh air from the airbox into the exhaust ports, to assist in burning off unburnt fuel in the exhaust pipes, increasing oxygen content in the catalytic converter or exhaust and diluting exhaust air. The excess air in the exhaust ports has been attributed to cause some popping in the exhaust, particularly aftermarket exhaust, and of course diluting the exhaust can cause the oxygen sensor to see a condition that is more oxygen-rich than what is actually in the combustion chamber. Mainly on the FJR the PAIR system is a complete nuisance when doing valve checks, spark plugs and throttle body syncs. It also blocks access to maintaining the coolant lines. I figure it is worth taking off, exactly once, and never putting back on again.

 
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Can I just ask...pure curiosity... what is the function of this PAIR system then?
Pulse AIR Induction System (PAIR) allows the introduction of fresh air from the airbox into the exhaust ports, to assist in burning off unburnt fuel in the exhaust pipes, increasing oxygen content in the catalytic converter or exhaust and diluting exhaust air. The excess air in the exhaust ports has been attributed to cause some popping in the exhaust, particularly aftermarket exhaust, and of course diluting the exhaust can cause the oxygen sensor to see a condition that is more oxygen-rich than what is actually in the combustion chamber. Mainly on the FJR the PAIR system is a complete nuisance when doing valve checks, spark plugs and throttle body syncs. It also blocks access to maintaining the coolant lines. I figure it is worth taking off, exactly once, and never putting back on again.
Thank you, I guess while I am at it I will remove them and put the Wynpro block off plates!

 
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