Farkling Parts

[hppants]

I wanted to get opinions on something.

Basically, I ran the main fuzeblock power/ground, along with the aux. lights power/ground between the battery and right side fairing, and then in the "trough" between the right side of the tank and the frame. Up front, these wires are routed such that they move with the forks/handlebars - it is unavoidable. I've built in a "service loop", and secured the nearest connectors in the wire for some strain relief.

However, my audio cables and GPS cable are better served attached to the ram bone, which is mounted using the front tank bolts. The nice thing about this is that nothing moves. From the rambone, I went through the frame opening and basically followed the throttle cables above the under tank insulation until they met the trough for the other electrical wires.

My concern of course is for heat - I'm wondering if the audio cables will melt. My crotch tells me that the heat management on the gen III is FAR better than the gen 1, but is it enough? Has anyone else used this space to route wires/cables and if so, has heat management been an issue?

I supposed I could get some of that accordion-like auto wire loom and tuck the cables into it for a little more insulation. Not sure there is enough room for that, though.

 

[Allen_C]

If I understand correctly, you ran your wires like I did. I put the wire loom around them within a couple weeks and have hood no problems in the past 18 mo.

 

[DesignFlaw06]

The initial install of my cruise control was under the tank. Not quite the path you are talking about, since it was stuffed all the way up front. But I never saw any issues with wires or the vacuum melting.

I doubt you'll see any problems, but others may have had different experiences.

 

[Madmudder]

I installed these frame sliders since cutting was not an option for me. They also have some other very good quality items.

https://www.rdmoto.eu/en/motorcycle/16874

This is what I use to charge my phone when the bike is not running since I already have the lead avaialable

https://www.batterytender.com/Accessories/USB-Charger-QDC.html

 

[BigOgre]

However, my audio cables and GPS cable are better served attached to the ram bone, which is mounted using the front tank bolts. The nice thing about this is that nothing moves. From the rambone, I went through the frame opening and basically followed the throttle cables above the under tank insulation until they met the trough for the other electrical wires.
My concern of course is for heat - I'm wondering if the audio cables will melt. My crotch tells me that the heat management on the gen III is FAR better than the gen 1, but is it enough? Has anyone else used this space to route wires/cables and if so, has heat management been an issue?

I supposed I could get some of that accordion-like auto wire loom and tuck the cables into it for a little more insulation. Not sure there is enough room for that, though.

I bought a standard Radio Shack extension and ran it like you described, connecting the bar-mounted GPS with my wired earbuds. I leave the female end dangling between the seat and the back of the tank. Been that way for several years now and never had a problem with heat or anything.

A couple or years or so ago I did some rewiring in the front and ran a new bundle back to the FZ-1 under the seat. I had/have a bit of that accordion wire tubing but read a few stories about it melting, especially where it touches along the frame. Also thought about buying some fabric/fiberglass loom but in the end just used up some heat tape I had laying around. Probably don't need it but it made me feel better.

 

[wheatonFJR]

I'm gonna farkle in my pants,too one of these days.

 

[hppants]

Well I'm done for now. I clipped my Tom Tom GPS wire and soldered it to my Powerlet wire and it ain't pretty, but it works. Everything looks real clean all around and I'm pretty pleased with how it came out.

Still left to do is the SR-357 rack, possibly a new top box, and a Laam seat.

And of course a lot of ride reports!

 

[hppants]

7/8/15

OK - time to spend more money. Two things on the agenda for this month.

Top Case: I'm going to order the Givi SR-357 rack. Top case wise, I'm hoping to be able to use my mono-lock 31 liter top box for day trips, and purchase a 46-52 liter mono-key box for longer tours. I'm hopeful that I can fabricate a simple adapter plate to use with my mono-lock base plate. We'll see. In the meantime, I've got a couple questions:

Besides the ability to change the color of the lid, what is the difference between the "E" series top cases and the "V" series? What do I get for an additional $100.00 on the "V" series.

Givi says that a typical 46L top case (E or V) is rated for 22 pounds. Givi says that my 31L top case is only rated to hold like 10 pounds. I packed it up with my usual "touring load" and the contents weighed a hefty 21 pounds. I lugged that load on my stock Gen 1 rack for years and thousands of miles. I wouldn't expect to double that kind of weight with a 46L, but it's conceiveable that I might go 30-ish pounds. I'd expect the SR-357 to help with the load, but I'm curious, have any of you loaded down your top cases? Problems?

If you use rok-straps (or similar) to cinch down your camping bag or similar duff sitting on the pillion, and you ride a Gen III bike, do you use the SR-357 rack rails as a place for your rear strap anchors? I tried to use the sub frame under the seat and I do not like the stress placed on the rear plastic from the angle the straps use to get between the pillion seat and the tail section.

2. Laam Seat.

I'm going to have Seth do the rider's seat for my bike - that is the easy part. My wife hated the stock pillion seat on my Gen I. Seth was able to keep her from pushing forward toward me and she liked the Laam seat very much. OTOH - she LOVES the stock seat on the new Gen III. She says that the seat material keeps her from sliding and the seat is not uncomfortable on my rear end. I want Seth to use the same vinyl material for the rider's seat that he used on my Gen I. It's comfortable, breathes pretty good, and unlike my wife, I like to be able to slide a little when I'm riding the twisties.

So I could just have Seth do the rider's seat and leave the pillion alone. That would be cheaper, but it kind of looks crappy. So what do you think? Form or function?

Thanks.

 

[Twigg]

Lemme know when you are bored with that AmpliRider. It's exactly what I need

 

[Allen_C]

Why not just install the stiffy brace instead of the Givi 357? I believe the stiffy is cheaper and looks a heck of a lot better! You can then use the standard fjr mount from Givi.

 

[escapefjrtist]

7/8/15
2. Laam Seat.

I'm going to have Seth do the rider's seat for my bike - that is the easy part. My wife hated the stock pillion seat on my Gen I. Seth was able to keep her from pushing forward toward me and she liked the Laam seat very much. OTOH - she LOVES the stock seat on the new Gen III. She says that the seat material keeps her from sliding and the seat is not uncomfortable on my rear end. I want Seth to use the same vinyl material for the rider's seat that he used on my Gen I. It's comfortable, breathes pretty good, and unlike my wife, I like to be able to slide a little when I'm riding the twisties.

So I could just have Seth do the rider's seat and leave the pillion alone. That would be cheaper, but it kind of looks crappy. So what do you think? Form or function?

Thanks.

Definitely go with form and have Seth do the rider and passenger seats. For those times when your wife is along, put this (don't laugh) on the rear seat for her. Fugly but completely eliminates sliding around and makes the ride much more enjoyable for her. I keep a short section rolled up in the top box.

--G

 

[Twigg]

Givi says that a typical 46L top case (E or V) is rated for 22 pounds. Givi says that my 31L top case is only rated to hold like 10 pounds. I packed it up with my usual "touring load" and the contents weighed a hefty 21 pounds. I lugged that load on my stock Gen 1 rack for years and thousands of miles. I wouldn't expect to double that kind of weight with a 46L, but it's conceiveable that I might go 30-ish pounds. I'd expect the SR-357 to help with the load, but I'm curious, have any of you loaded down your top cases? Problems?

I'm going to have Seth do the rider's seat for my bike - that is the easy part. My wife hated the stock pillion seat on my Gen I. Seth was able to keep her from pushing forward toward me and she liked the Laam seat very much. OTOH - she LOVES the stock seat on the new Gen III. She says that the seat material keeps her from sliding and the seat is not uncomfortable on my rear end. I want Seth to use the same vinyl material for the rider's seat that he used on my Gen I. It's comfortable, breathes pretty good, and unlike my wife, I like to be able to slide a little when I'm riding the twisties.

I have a Gen 1 with the Givi SR346. I carry a hefty load in the top case and it hasn't been an issue.

If you are planning on 400 to 600 mile days, it seems the Laam seat will work just fine. If you are thinking that you might up the mileage from that I'd strongly recommend getting the Russell now, rather than paying for it later

 

[hppants]

Allen - what is the "stiffy brace"?

Edit: I see that Gary is making something for the sub-frame. Even with that, as you point out, I would still need the E228 adapter plate. But please check me on this - is the consensus of opinion that the SR-357 is a good solution to the cracked subframe issues that some people have? Or do people still have issues with the stock subframe cracking? Looking at some of the pictures on the "stiffy thread", perhaps the stock subframe in the "3-hole" area is still weak, even with the aftermarket rack?

Also - from other threads, I may infer that the Gen 2/3 subframe is apparently much weaker than the Gen 1 was? Is that the concensus?

Twigg - the amplirider is awesome. Pretty clean amp, draws hardly any juice, the volume control is "water resistant" (been through plenty rains), and can handle 3 inputs (MP3, radar detector, and GPS barkings??). Like on the Gen I, I do pick up just a faint hint of engine noise with the new bike every now and than, likely from the stator. I messed around with relocating the amplifier and routing of my audio cables, but it didn't make a difference, so under the seat it went.

I'm absolutely sold on the Laam seat - I've done 800 miles in a day on my Gen I. Butt was in pretty good shape - rest of me, not so much. The RDL won't let me shift weight in the twisties anyway. I've ridden a stint on the RDL and frankly, I like the Laam seat oodles better.

The seat issue I'm having is whether to re-cover the pillion to match my re-worked rider seat, or leave it stock the way my wife likes it, and have it mis-match the rider's seat (form or function).

G - interesting comment. Do you just drape that material over the seat?

 

[BkerChuck]

I had Seth do both rider and pillion for me. Pillion is simply a recover over the OEM foam so it matches the rider seat. It's a relatively small price to pay for having both parts of the seat match up. After dropping the money on a new bike is this really a place to cut corners anyway?

 

[hppants]

B/C - thanks. Cutting corners is not the price. I'm thinking about leaving the pillion seat stock to please my wife (I've been known to do that from time to time). But I agree with you - having them match is a much better look.

OK - so I've PM'd Garauld on his stiffy (Boy does that not sound right) and I've got a better idea of what's going on.

On the one hand - I could buy the stiffy and the 228 Adapter plate (total investment = about $220.00). In this case, I retain the stock rack and I suppose that looks better.

OTOH - I could buy the SR-357 alone (total investment = $145.00)

On the 3rd hand - I could buy the stiffy AND the SR-357 (total investment = $260.00).

Hmmmm.....

 

[Allen_C]

The weak part of the subframe is enforced by the stiffy. You will still need a mounting plate for the tail case, as you indicated. If I remember correctly, you can get a Givi box, standard fjr plate and stiffy for less $ than the cost of the box and sr-357, but I may be wrong. I definitely spent less since I went with a Shad box (sh-45) and plate with the stiffy.

 

[Cav47]

The seat issue I'm having is whether to re-cover the pillion to match my re-worked rider seat, or leave it stock the way my wife likes it, and have it mis-match the rider's seat (form or function).

If you go with form, you may not get any function once you get there if you know what I mean!!

 

[Twigg]

The weak part of the subframe is enforced by the stiffy. You will still need a mounting plate for the tail case, as you indicated. If I remember correctly, you can get a Givi box, standard fjr plate and stiffy for less $ than the cost of the box and sr-357, but I may be wrong. I definitely spent less since I went with a Shad box (sh-45) and plate with the stiffy.

The "stiffy" does indeed strengthen the rear sub-frame, but I can't help but feel that the SR357 is a better and stronger solution, it's just the appearance that might not suit some.

 

[hppants]

Another reason I'm leaning toward the SR357 (with or without the stiffy) is for stiffer tie down points for my camping bag. The front rok straps will be looped around the front section of the rack. The stock rack is plastic with a big "7 pounds max" label on it. Not very inspiring. I currently have no solution for the back straps other than the same plastic rack. The SR357's tubular aluminum seems like a much better choice all around for this.

Last night, SWMBO walked into the home office and asked:

(Wifey) "Whatcha doin?"

(Pants) "I'm thinking about gettin a stiffy."

(Wifey) "Need any help?"

(Pants)

 

[Cav47]

Pants and stiffys......So junior highish