Fault Code 12

[MotoMike]

I am the third owner of a 2007 FJR1300A. I purchased it in May of 2020 with 49,600 km on the odometer. I have kept up with all the required maintenance as per the owner's manual. All the work done on the bike since I purchased it has been done by me. The most recent upgrade was in Jan of 2023 at 76,000km when I changed the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) for a new one (green dot) (following the instructions posted by yamafitter in April, 2011). The bike performed well for the first half of the 2023 riding season. Around August, the bike started acting up......on occasion it would not start unless I held the throttle wide open. Then the bike seemed to run hotter than usual and also did not feel like it had the same acceleration as I was used to. Then, at some gas stops, when I tried to start up after the fill-up, the orange "Check engine" light would come on and the starter would not turn (the bike would start if I let it sit for 15 minutes or so). Finally, it showed Fault Code 12 along with the "Check engine" light and no-go when the start button was pushed. Luckily, this happened in my garage at the end of the riding season.

According to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) Fault Code 12 indicates: "No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor". So, I removed the air box to be able to access the connector under the throttle bodies. That connector seemed to have loose internal connections. I checked the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor (which was within spec at 485ohms). I checked the integrity of the wires in the harness on the other side of the connector (which were good). So I deduced that it must be a bad connector. I cut out the connector and tried to solder the wires together only to discover that I am really bad at soldering. I ended up resorting to butt connectors.

I re-assembled everything and turned on the ignition: the requisite lights flashed, the needles did their "happy dance" the fuel pump did it's thing and the Fault Code 12 was cleared! I did MY happy dance! I pressed the start button and.....the "check engine" light lit up and nothing else happened. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on again: the requisite lights flashed, the needles did their "happy dance", the fuel pump did it's thing and........Fault Code 12 was back along with the "check engine" light. Pressing the start button achieved nothing.

I looked through the diagnostic code memory. The only code in there was fault code 14. I will be checking that.

My only thought is that I will have to replace the crankshaft position sensor despite the test being within spec. Before I do that, I would like to hear your thoughts and any other helpful suggestions on how to proceed from here. Your attention and time is greatly appreciated.

Mike

 

[RossKean]

Read this on Fault Code 14
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/fault-code-14-gen-ii-solved.170314/It could explain the overall running characteristics and is an easy (and free) fix.

Fault code 12 will often pop up after a "no start" or a stall. Get the Fault 14 sorted out first before you go further with the camshaft position sensor. It might be FUBAR and needs to be replaced. You can pick up a used one on fleabay for $30 USD or so but shipping might be a killer.

If not for the fact that you had good performance immediately after changing the CCT, I would wonder if there was any chance that you skipped a tooth on the cam chain. (I wouldn't rule it out entirely.)

Good Luck. Lots of time to ponder possibilities between now and the beginning of riding season in New Brunswick!!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Check for pinched wires on the crank position sensor. Assuming you removed the (oil pump) cover to capture the cam chain when replacing the CCT, it's not unheard of catching wiring when reinstalling the cover.

Good luck!

~G

 

[RossKean]

Check for pinched wires on the crank position sensor. Assuming you removed the (oil pump) cover to capture the cam chain when replacing the CCT, it's not unheard of catching wiring when reinstalling the cover.

Good luck!

~G

I had a pinched O2 sensor wire when the timing cover (oil pump cover) was reinstalled when I did the CCT on my '07 many years ago (2011). It did not yield a Fault Code of any sort but the bike ran like crap. Apparently, it was sufficient to break the insulation on the wire, partly grounded out, and sent bad data to the ECU. Bike ran incredibly rich. In my defence, this was a job done by a "committee" at a tech day and I wasn't the one who reinstalled the cover!! I ended out riding home a couple days later and spent some time figuring it out. Started to check timing first and saw the wire between the cover and frame...

(I had forgotten about that incident until you mentioned it.)
Long story: You can see the extent of the investigation
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/rough-idle-power-issues-fuel-etc.140345/
Answer:
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/shorted-oxygen-sensor.140471/
Edit: Since it was after the CCT change, it is worth checking although a pinched O2 sensor wire would not cause either fault code.
Don't know about crank position sensor wires - that wasn't my issue. In any case, it wouldn't hurt to remove the cover and make sure everything is OK.

 

[MotoMike]

As per Rosskean's suggestion in post #2, I worked on Fault #14 first. All the small vacuum tubes were removed, inspected and cleaned. They were all pristine.

As for the possibility of the timing chain skipping a tooth.....when I changed the CCT, the first thing I did after removing the crankshaft cover was to place the timing chain in tension by strapping 2 zip-ties around the chain. Similarly, the last thing I did before re-installing the crankshaft cover was to remove said zip-ties. So I think the probability of a skipped tooth is very low.

Today's project: remove the right side panel and inspect the wires around the crankshaft cover.

 

[rbentnail]

As for the possibility of the timing chain skipping a tooth.....So i think the probability of a skipped tooth is very low.

I wish you could see how many people say the same thing every spring just to eventually find out a tooth has been jumped. You'd be amazed.

 

[CGS]

I am the third owner of a 2007 FJR1300A. I purchased it in May of 2020 with 49,600 km on the odometer. I have kept up with all the required maintenance as per the owner's manual. All the work done on the bike since I purchased it has been done by me. The most recent upgrade was in Jan of 2023 at 76,000km when I changed the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) for a new one (green dot) (following the instructions posted by yamafitter in April, 2011). The bike performed well for the first half of the 2023 riding season. Around August, the bike started acting up......on occasion it would not start unless I held the throttle wide open. Then the bike seemed to run hotter than usual and also did not feel like it had the same acceleration as I was used to. Then, at some gas stops, when I tried to start up after the fill-up, the orange "Check engine" light would come on and the starter would not turn (the bike would start if I let it sit for 15 minutes or so). Finally, it showed Fault Code 12 along with the "Check engine" light and no-go when the start button was pushed. Luckily, this happened in my garage at the end of the riding season.

According to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) Fault Code 12 indicates: "No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor". So, I removed the air box to be able to access the connector under the throttle bodies. That connector seemed to have loose internal connections. I checked the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor (which was within spec at 485ohms). I checked the integrity of the wires in the harness on the other side of the connector (which were good). So I deduced that it must be a bad connector. I cut out the connector and tried to solder the wires together only to discover that I am really bad at soldering. I ended up resorting to butt connectors.

I re-assembled everything and turned on the ignition: the requisite lights flashed, the needles did their "happy dance" the fuel pump did it's thing and the Fault Code 12 was cleared! I did MY happy dance! I pressed the start button and.....the "check engine" light lit up and nothing else happened. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on again: the requisite lights flashed, the needles did their "happy dance", the fuel pump did it's thing and........Fault Code 12 was back along with the "check engine" light. Pressing the start button achieved nothing.

I looked through the diagnostic code memory. The only code in there was fault code 14. I will be checking that.

My only thought is that I will have to replace the crankshaft position sensor despite the test being within spec. Before I do that, I would like to hear your thoughts and any other helpful suggestions on how to proceed from here. Your attention and time is greatly appreciated.

Mike

I have a 2007 FJR and received a code 12 also. Went through everything I could, check crankshaft sensor and other wires, connections and relays. Then saw a video on YouTube about a code 12 on a high end Yamaha ATV. Turns out it was a starter solenoid. Changed it and cleared the code and good to go. Hopefully it the same.

 

[MotoMike]

So, yesterday I removed the right side panel and inspected the wires around the crankshaft cover. I found a that the wire was kinked but not pinched. I opened up the casing around the two wires and saw a spot where the cover on the white wire was rubbed on the surface. I could not tell if that was there before I cut open the casing around the wire or was caused by me cutting open the casing. In any event, I went ahead and cut that piece out and spliced the wire together. Testing the sensor at the splice still showed 485 ohms indicating a good sensor.

Unfortunately, when I tried to start the bike: still no joy, only code 12 and a flashing orange "check engine" light.

Today, I see that "heads up" in post #7 from CGS. Thanks for that, CGS!

Now: off to Google on how to test a starter solenoid.

 

[CGS]

So, yesterday I removed the right side panel and inspected the wires around the crankshaft cover. I found a that the wire was kinked but not pinched. I opened up the casing around the two wires and saw a spot where the cover on the white wire was rubbed on the surface. I could not tell if that was there before I cut open the casing around the wire or was caused by me cutting open the casing. In any event, I went ahead and cut that piece out and spliced the wire together. Testing the sensor at the splice still showed 485 ohms indicating a good sensor.

Unfortunately, when I tried to start the bike: still no joy, only code 12 and a flashing orange "check engine" light.

Today, I see that "heads up" in post #7 from CGS. Thanks for that, CGS!

Now: off to Google on how to test a starter solenoid.

I saw this on You Tube.

 

[MotoMike]

I tested the starter relay (aka starter solenoid) according to the procedure described in my Haynes Service and Repair Manual Chapter 8 Section 25, paragraph 4. Conclusion: Relay is good.

Did further research. A suggestion from another forum: bypass the relay by connecting sending power directly to the starter motor. Do that by bridging the gap from the positive the connection on the solenoid to the output from the solenoid

 

[MotoMike]

Oops. Post #10, continued: Do that by bridging the gap from the positive battery connection on the solenoid to the output connection from the solenoid to the starter motor. This gap can be bridged using an insulated screwdriver.

Result: Starter turned, code 12 cleared, no longer have an orange "check engine" light. Conclusion: Bad starter relay!

Next step: order a replacement starter relay.

 

[RossKean]

Oops. Post #10, continued: Do that by bridging the gap from the positive battery connection on the solenoid to the output connection from the solenoid to the starter motor. This gap can be bridged using an insulated screwdriver.

Result: Starter turned, code 12 cleared, no longer have an orange "check engine" light. Conclusion: Bad starter relay!

Next step: order a replacement starter relay.

Great. I hope that deals with all your issues. I still can't figure out your mid-season performance issues. With good behavior after the CCT change, I wouldn't ordinarily expect a skipped tooth but it is the next thing to verify if performance isn't up to snuff when you are able to get the bike back on the road in the spring. Fingers crossed

 

[Panman]

Have you checked to see if the relay is getting a signal from the switch? I either missed where you said the relay is clicking but not engaging the starter. Just a wondering mind?? IMHO relays don't usually quit, they quit giving enough voltage to the starter due to burnt contacts.
If you do replace the relay notice that there is two 50 amp fuses one is a spare. Insure you get the orientation correct. If not you will start getting a ABS light.

 

[Whooshka]

I had a relay issue on my ST1300. Fuel pump circuit problem. The relay bench tested fine, every time. Just for the heck of it I swapped that relay with another, and problem gone. It was the relay.

 

[CGS]

Have you checked to see if the relay is getting a signal from the switch? I either missed where you said the relay is clicking but not engaging the starter. Just a wondering mind?? IMHO relays don't usually quit, they quit giving enough voltage to the starter due to burnt contacts.
If you do replace the relay notice that there is two 50 amp fuses one is a spare. Insure you get the orientation correct. If not you will start getting a ABS light.

That is correct, I did just that and got an ABS light. But my problem with my brake in the rear was the brakes lightly engaging while riding. Then the code 12, change solenoid but reverse and ABS light on. Really a pain in the ass. Like a dog trying to catch his tail.

 

[Whooshka]

Does the ABS light STAY on while riding? It will always come on when first starting the bike and won't go off until you ride 100 yards or so.

 

[rbentnail]

Does the ABS light STAY on while riding? It will always come on when first starting the bike and won't go off until you ride 100 yards or so.

I think this is true only for Gen3. IIRC Gen2 the light goes after the initial test, without moving, if the system tests good.

 

[Whooshka]

Learn something new every day.

 

[rbentnail]

I think that's right. I do remember the first time I rode my '13 I freaked out b/c the ABS light didn't go out after the self-check.

 

[Panman]

Does the ABS light STAY on while riding? It will always come on when first starting the bike and won't go off until you ride 100 yards or so.

In my case I put the solenoid in backwards so the ABS light stayed on al the time. So I suggest checking the orientation of the solenoid that is being removed and match it.