FJR and curves

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Daddydukes

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I love my FJR and fortunate to live in the mountains with some great roads. But, I've noticed that my FJR, '08 version, does not layover into a curve as easily as other bikes I've had, including my last beast, a BMW K1200LT. Don't want to start a tire war post, but was wondering if a change of tires from the OEM Metzlers would make the bike more responsive?

Thoughts and experiences appreciated.

Keith

 
That's been my experience. Even worse, my first FJR came with Bridgestones, the 2nd with Metz.

Some of the issue could be you having to get used to the new bike and its response to different inputs.

Break it in then start tire shopping.

 
Put BT023 GT spec on about 1k ago, one day put about 45 lb in the front (3 lb over)... wow, what a difference that made in handling! Responds to input extremely well now. Before was okay but now is outstanding.

That said, it's important to note, in case it's not known, any bike responds better when one is riding it without their weight on their wrists... Sometimes a different bike causes us to sit differently and we don't realize it. Are your wrists going numb more often? Just a thought.

 
FJR is great bike, but FJR is in general not "ideal" bike for slow curvy roads unless you get "used" how to handle it in the way that after a complete day of riding on such roads you will not have a pain in your arms... There are bikes much better for curves (specially for 180 deg curves). But I do agree - tyres can help. The best is to try several types if possible.

 
There is no question that tires have a huge impact on tip-in.

Mine came with Metzlers which have a fairly flat profile, giving it a pretty stable ride. That's cool if you mainly tour! I happen to live at the edge of the Santa Monica Mountains and bought this bike for it's ability to do both.

When I switched to the Avon Storms, I couldn't believe the difference! I actually had to be careful at first because it tipped over so quick in comparison!

Not everybody loves the Storms, length of life I believe, but I love the way they stick to the road. I even manage a decent tire life out of most sets.

 
I love my FJR and fortunate to live in the mountains with some great roads. But, I've noticed that my FJR, '08 version, does not layover into a curve as easily as other bikes I've had, including my last beast, a BMW K1200LT. Don't want to start a tire war post, but was wondering if a change of tires from the OEM Metzlers would make the bike more responsive?

Thoughts and experiences appreciated.

Keith
When I got my 07, one thing I noticed right off the bat, was that my 06 Connie was alot more flickable. As I put the miles on the FJR I noticed it seemed like an awful lot of work thru the curves. The was alot of effort to make it work its way thru the turns. Push, Push, Push (countersteering) thru the twisties. After about 8,000 miles new tires were in order. As soon as the new ones were on, the FJR became the bike I expected it to be. Tires can have an effect for sure. I went rom Bridgestones to Shinko Ravens. I put the Shinko's on as an experiment and a cheaper alternative to Michelins. I knew I would be changing them out in 4,000 miles for our trip our west. I was so happy with the Shinks I mounted another set of Ravens for the trip out west.

Willie

 
The answer to your question may have as much to do with your suspension set-up

as it does with your tires.

Metzlers aren't particularly stable in a straight line and resist turn-in more than most.

However, they are fine once leaned over and stick fairly well.

You may want to try Pirelli Angel STs. Neutral handling and almost effortless turn-in.

Stable straight up and no "bump-steer" while leaned over.

 
The answer to your question may have as much to do with your suspension set-up

as it does with your tires.

Metzlers aren't particularly stable in a straight line and resist turn-in more than most.

However, they are fine once leaned over and stick fairly well.

You may want to try Pirelli Angel STs. Neutral handling and almost effortless turn-in.

Stable straight up and no "bump-steer" while leaned over.
My first impression of the FJR was that it has heavy steering. The BT23 on the front looked ok but because of this forum I replaced it with a PR2 and got significant improvement. I think the FJR is more sensitive to front tire choices than many other bikes. One thing is that the wheel weight on front and rear is equal. Most bikes have more weight on the rear. My guess this is the root of the issue. Even with my new PR2 I found on a recent 3000 mile trip mostly on curving roads that I got arm fatigue. My other bikes, a Guzzi 1100 (115,000 miles) and B12 Bandit(60,000 miles) have never caused me arm pain. Could be that I might need to change riding position and I plan to experiment with that. Having said all that the other great attributes of the FJR makes it my long distance bike of choice. I love it. Bill

 
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My first impression of the FJR was that it has heavy steering. The BT23 on the front looked ok but because of this forum I replaced it with a PR2 and got significant improvement. I think the FJR is more sensitive to front tire choices than many other bikes. One thing is that the wheel weight on front and rear is equal. Most bikes have more weight on the rear. My guess this is the root of the issue. Even with my new PR2 I found on a recent 3000 mile trip mostly on curving roads that I got arm fatigue. My other bikes, a Guzzi 1100 (115,000 miles) and B12 Bandit(60,000 miles) have never caused me arm pain. Could be that I might need to change riding position and I plan to experiment with that. Having said all that the other great attributes of the FJR makes it my long distance bike of choice. I love it. Bill
You can try lowering the front end to lighten the FJR's steering.

Steeper rake = lighter steering and 1/8 inch = about 1 degree of rake.

Assuming your suspension is properly setup for you, you can achive this in one of two ways:

Easy, lazy man's way: back off fork preload one line. While this will soften up the front end a bit,

it will lower the front about 1/8th inch resulting in steeper rake and lighter steering.

Preferred but more involved way: raise the forks in triple clamp 1/8 inch. While this may be

time consuming, a test ride after adjustment should reveal that delicate balance between

straight-line stability and ease of turn-in.

The FJR's stock rear shock, unfortunately, doesn't allow for easy ride height adjustment

so any changes will be to the front end only.

 
I've always liked the Z6's on the Feej. I never noticed any turn in issues until I put a PR2 on the rear, and it took a few hundred miles on a new tire for better turn-in... note Z6 on front, which I will continue to do. I would also recommend a minimum of 40psi front, 42 minimum rear.

 
I've always liked the Z6's on the Feej. I never noticed any turn in issues until I put a PR2 on the rear, and it took a few hundred miles on a new tire for better turn-in... note Z6 on front, which I will continue to do. I would also recommend a minimum of 40psi front, 42 minimum rear.
RaYzerman,

That is about the pressure that I always use on the bike. I'm not going to switch tires until the need arises, but I'm pretty convinced I need to try something else.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Keith

 
See this link on suspension setup. Combined with good tires, this is the best farkle I've ever tried...and it didn't cost anything. clicky ;)

 
I think suspension setting and handel bar issues. Make sure your suspension is working for you not against you ( 3 lines, 7 and 8) and maybe a Heli-Bar top triple clamp to give you a little more leverage, and move your weight back just slightly off your hands. It worked for me! :yahoo: :yahoo:

 
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