FJR doesn't start

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Your dealer is full of crap... the switch resests itself. (Yes, it will show in the code history, but it has no effect on the bike.)

Page 33 of the service manual...

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HouFjr, your dealer checked the diagnostic codes and claims to have found one of the two codes associated with the tip-over switch. Code #30 was probably set (lean angle cut-off switch [latch up detected]). The other code is #41 (open or short circuit). The action for both codes is "Turns OFF the fuel injection system relay of the fuel system." This code makes the motorcycle "Able/Unable to start" & "Able/Unable to drive"

The dealer then would have scrolled through the diagnostic panel's codes until he found code #61 which displayed all set codes. Then in code #62 he toggled the stop switch from "ON" to "OFF" then back to "ON" thereby resetting the error code.

From the time your bike set the tip-over switch latch your bike shouldn't have run. There is no age/time limit. The tip-over switch is one of only 4 codes that will prevent the bike from running under all circumstances. I think your dealer may have either been mistaken about the code, or, ahem, was blowing smoke to cover for the problem being found elsewhere. As in the dealer found the problem and it was his fault and he wasn't gonna confess.

At least he picked up the cost of the tow and service.

Edit: Dang, I'm getting slow, I see that FJR1300 covered the answer while I was typing.

 
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>>Yes, it will show in the code history<<

What other types of info are stored? Oli change intervals? Speeds or rpm at miles?

Does this electronic storage unit resemble the event data recorders placed in cars these days? Is the info stored in the ECU?

 
Years 03-05 = True; 06 = Unknown

The ECU in Feejer is very simplistic compared to automotive 'puters. No oil, no rpm, no red line, no speeds, no 'events'.

(Refer to the first line) There are ~20 two digit codes that the ECU will set when things go out of limits. Examples of the things that get stored in the ECU are:

  • No normal signals from crankshaft position sensor
  • Intake air pressure sensor out of range
  • Stuck throttle position sensor
  • Open circuit in the sidestand switch
  • Amount of air-fuel ratio feedback compensation is continuously in the upper limit
  • Open circuit detected in the primary wire of ignition coil
  • No normal signals are received from the speed sensor
  • ECU unable to monitor the battery voltage
  • THE MOTORCYCLE HAS OVERTURNED -- Word. Straight from the FSM.
So there ya go. No computattler in Feejer. Only a few basic things get a two digit code stored in the ECU. Excepting the last item in the list :eek:
 
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All good info to know. I dumped mine in a deep, freshly graveled driveway in Utah last year on the way home from the WFO.

Fortunately ( or not .. :angry2: ) I stalled it trying to bump my way over the high lip of the entrance ramp leading to the street and my legs were too short to stop it as I was on the crown between the tire tracks.

Bike started up once uprighted, else I might have been temporarily screwed a long way from home. I'll keep the fuel injection clearing method in mind too - I hope !

 
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Well, guess we are going to have to alter a few long standing things. Let's start with the number 666, the number of the beast, devil type things. I believe we can now replace that number with the number [SIZE=14pt]30 [/SIZE], the new number for a devil of a situation. :blink:

Hopefully nobody will need to know the secret way to reset this code :)

 
Now they're waiting on a replacement Throttle Position Sensor; their diagnostics said mine was bad. I admire their thoroughness, but I'm ready to have my FJR back before it becomes July and August in Texas.

 
---> Yes, the FJR will automatically shut off if it exceeds 70 degrees over.

Ummmm, last year the front end of mine washed out on gravel and it was laying on the right side - still running. Had to hit the kill switch to stop it.

 
it was laying on the right side - still running.
It is a Bad Thing when that happens. The crank is spinning in air and the oil pump pickup has nothing to pick up.

 
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Okay - this is bizarre. Mine just did it. I went out this morning, to crank her up for my daily commute. Upon first hit of the starter, it lit off for about one second. Then - quickly and quietly - with no fuss or muss - it shut down. Now, cranking it feels "soft" as if there were no compression.

Yes, the bike tipped over once. But that was two winters, and thousands of miles ago.

I hate the idea of letting a dealership have my bike - never mind the hassles of getting it there...

Thoughts?

 
Read post #3 in this thread, do it. If it doesn't start then you need to read your dIAG screen for codes. If you can't find a procedure after doing a search LMK. [if it doesn't start after performing #3 and you are up to it, you should pull a plug and be sure they are dry and clean.]

 
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Well, thanks...

I just spent an hour searching for a way to enter into the diagnostic mode.

Nothing.

Wouldn't object to a little help on that one.

I'm gonna look at the fuel injection fuse in the morning.

This whole thing is a little scarey. I've owned this bike for almost three years. So far, it has been flawless. But now, I am thinking about how f*cked I would be if I were somewhere way out there. Lucky me, this happened in my driveway.

 
I just spent an hour searching for a way to enter into the diagnostic mode.
Place bikie on the center stand, neutral, side stand up. Physically switch the red Run switch off and back on 'just to be sure'.

[Assume that air filter has been checked, plugs have been checked, gas is present, no fuel lines are kinked, electrical system hasn't been fiddled with recently, etc, etc] Try one last time to confirm it still doesn't start.

The Diagnostic screen. How to:

With the key off, press and hold the "Select" and "Reset" buttons simultaneously and turn the key on (do not start, just ON), continue to hold the buttons until the display next to the fuel gauge says diAG (5-10 seconds).

Release the two buttons. Now, press the "Select" and "Reset" buttons simultaneously again. After ~ 2 seconds the display should show dI:01 on top and a two digit number at the bottom. You are now looking at the throttle position sensor (TPS) output. The TPS value is the two digits at the bottom of the display. Turning the throttle will change the digits. Normal is 15-17 with the throttle closed and 97 to 100 with the throttle wide open. This is an example of how the dI:xx top and bottom two digit data works.

Press "Select" to increment the diAG sequence number and press "Reset" to decrement the diAG sequence number. At code dI:09 the fuel system voltage will be displayed and you should hear the fuel pump turn on. Expect to see roughly 11.7 to 12.4 displayed on the bottom, this is the battery voltage to the fuel pump. A reading like 00.10 would indicate a blown fuse or broken wire.

Keep pressing the "Select" button until dI:61 is displayed. The two digits at the bottom of the display shows the code numbers stored i.e. 00 = no codes stored; no malfunctions. If you see 11 ~ 50 these are the stored code numbers for each malfunction. Every 2 seconds a new code will be displayed until it reaches the end of the stored codes, at this point the cycle is repeated. If you see code #19 = Open circuit in the sidestand switch to the ECU; if you see code #30 the Motorcycle has overturned; if you see code #41 the Lean angle cut-off switch is defective. There are 39 possible error codes, I'm not going to list them all, they are in the FSM. If you have a code LMK and I can look it up.

Keep pressing the "Select" button until dI:62 is displayed. The two digits at the bottom of the display shows the number of codes stored i.e. 00 = no codes stored; no malfunctions. If you see 00 to 21 that is the count of stored codes. While at dI:62, switching the right handle bar red Run switch OFF and back ON again will erase all the stored codes. At this point, as far as the ECU knows, there has never been a fault. This only works at dI:62

Press "Select" or "Reset" until the top shows dI:36, this is Injector #1. Turn the Run switch OFF/ON; after 1 second the injector actuates five times every second and illuminates the engine trouble warning light (when all is well). Repeat for :37; :38; :39 This completes injector tests.

Press "Select" or "Reset" until the top shows dI:50, this is the Fuel injection system relay. Toggle the Run switch OFF/ON; after 1 second the fuel injection system relay will actuate five times every second and illuminates the engine trouble warning light.

Press "Select" or "Reset" until the top shows dI:20, this is the side stand switch. Put bike in First Gear; put the side stand DOWN/UP; the display should read: STAND RETRACTED = ON STAND EXTENDED = OFF.

Press "Select" or "Reset" until the top shows dI:21, this is the Neutral Switch. Neutral = ON; In gear = OFF.

To leave the diAG mode simply turn the key off. Done.

 
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Well, HUGE thanks to Ionbeam for the assist on the codes.

Two good things have come of it.

1. I learned something about my bike that I really did not know.

2. I cleared the one and only error code - Code 30 - the tip-over code.

On the downside - the damned thing still won't start.

I dunno - this truly sucks. It's not the current inconvenience of having my bike down. What truly sucks is that after three years of faithful service, I no longer trust it for those long adventures into the wastelands. What if this crap happens to me in the middle of West-By-God-Virginia? I'm liable to end up face down in a muddy creek, givin' up da ass to some toothless, pitted good-old-boy tellin' me "I shore gotta purty mouth...".

 
What truly sucks is that after three years of faithful service, I no longer trust it for those long adventures into the wastelands.

Then you should never go anywhere!

Because no matter what bike,car or whatever it can breakdown! More so now that everything is computer controlled.

 
That sounds PRECISELY like my problem.

If you do take it to the dealer, have him call Brian at Houston Motorsports (281-890-2020) and tell him that your FJR is doing the same thing as Albert's was; he should know the procedure for the fix.

P.S. Mine's ready today; picking it up after work. Yay!

Okay - this is bizarre. Mine just did it. I went out this morning, to crank her up for my daily commute. Upon first hit of the starter, it lit off for about one second. Then - quickly and quietly - with no fuss or muss - it shut down. Now, cranking it feels "soft" as if there were no compression.
Yes, the bike tipped over once. But that was two winters, and thousands of miles ago.

I hate the idea of letting a dealership have my bike - never mind the hassles of getting it there...

Thoughts?
 
What's the report? Is it something that we can prevent? Can I DOOOO anything about it myself?

 
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