FJR initially sputters after starting on hot days

[not2shabby]

I was having the same problem with my 06 (Cali model bought from a gentleman in Fla...go figure.) After performing a canisterectomy, the problem is gone.

 

[DennisJ]

I had the cannister out when I was getting acquainted with all the plastics and the multitude of different fasteners while installing my Hella Supertone Horns. Realized afterwards that I could have saved myself a lot of time by just removing the inner lower cowling pieces.

 

[carlson_mn]

If your bike is stock (no PC III or PC V) it may be just running lean, until it warms up to full operating temps. Worst GenII's are '06 and '07 for emissions reasons. Software was modified in '08 or '09 so the low speed wasn't quite so lean. The real cure is a PC to richen up the fuel map. Assuming of course, no char can issues. To discount water in the fuel, put in a couple of ounces of Seafoam (or an ounce of isopropanol) to take care of the water. Ethanol fuels tend to phase-separate in about two weeks or more. Avoid filling up if you see a tanker truck at the station.

Everything is ethanol here in MN, except for select stations that have non-oxy premium which I used this winter to fill the bike up with along with seafoam treatment. However, last year I did not, and ethanol sat in my tank all winter with no seafoam either. 4-5 months old ethanol.

Bike ran perfect in the spring.

 

[Steel_Gin]

If your bike is stock (no PC III or PC V) it may be just running lean, until it warms up to full operating temps. Worst GenII's are '06 and '07 for emissions reasons. Software was modified in '08 or '09 so the low speed wasn't quite so lean. The real cure is a PC to richen up the fuel map. Assuming of course, no char can issues. To discount water in the fuel, put in a couple of ounces of Seafoam (or an ounce of isopropanol) to take care of the water. Ethanol fuels tend to phase-separate in about two weeks or more. Avoid filling up if you see a tanker truck at the station.

Everything is ethanol here in MN, except for select stations that have non-oxy premium which I used this winter to fill the bike up with along with seafoam treatment. However, last year I did not, and ethanol sat in my tank all winter with no seafoam either. 4-5 months old ethanol.

Bike ran perfect in the spring.

Gas with 10% ethanol here in NY as well. Well, unless you are willing the pay $5 a gallon at a marina. Anyway, it was suggested to me to use Sta-Bil in your gas if it's going to sit for a few months. That's my two cents worth.

 

[ahchiu]

If your bike is stock (no PC III or PC V) it may be just running lean, until it warms up to full operating temps. Worst GenII's are '06 and '07 for emissions reasons. Software was modified in '08 or '09 so the low speed wasn't quite so lean. The real cure is a PC to richen up the fuel map. Assuming of course, no char can issues. To discount water in the fuel, put in a couple of ounces of Seafoam (or an ounce of isopropanol) to take care of the water. Ethanol fuels tend to phase-separate in about two weeks or more. Avoid filling up if you see a tanker truck at the station.

Everything is ethanol here in MN, except for select stations that have non-oxy premium which I used this winter to fill the bike up with along with seafoam treatment. However, last year I did not, and ethanol sat in my tank all winter with no seafoam either. 4-5 months old ethanol.

Bike ran perfect in the spring.

Gas with 10% ethanol here in NY as well. Well, unless you are willing the pay $5 a gallon at a marina. Anyway, it was suggested to me to use Sta-Bil in your gas if it's going to sit for a few months. That's my two cents worth.

I use Sta-Bil/Ethanol Marine (Blue) for every tank