HELP would like to lower the seat or bike by aleast 2 inchs
italiagene,
Yes, you can lower the FJR an inch, and maybe more. I did that for mine, and it's fine by me. Use the Low seat position (see the Owner's Manual). Need an Owner's Manual? This download-able .PDF manual will be the Aussie version, but close enough, maybe, for most work on the bike. You can read the USA manual online, but you can't print it. Fill in the blanks, here:
https://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/index.php
Check the Owner's Manual for lowering the front seat. Where the front seat tab goes into the frame at the gas tank, pull off the small square plastic cover there and re-set it lower, or just leave it off, to expose the Low seat position socket for the front seat tab.
I also went with a low Corbin seat, made with us in mind, but almost any custom seat will help, if it is made for you and your measurements. I would only avoid the Russell seats, because they mostly raise you higher. You will want a seat that is cut narrow at the front, if possible
There is a seat bracket support (#6 in the drawing)
https://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/2006-yamaha-fjr13abs-fjr13av-seat-assembly.html
which can be sprung free of the pivot points and removed, to lower the seat further. You can also remove the front rubber buttons under the seat (use some water and they can pop out easily). Then glue a strip of very thin sheet rubber (inner tube stuff) to the frame there instead. If the rear shock is adjustable, reduce the preload and/or height setting a bit, if that will be comfortable for you.
Then I had my favorite bike shop install the Kouba Links at the rear suspension, which was cheap enough. They also lowered the front end of the FJR to match with a wrench, sliding the fork tubes maybe 1/2" higher in the fork clamps, to retain some good handling. The bike will be about an inch closer to the ground, but unless you grind the pegs a lot when riding now, there won't be too much difference in the available lean angle. You will need the side-stand cut down and welded at the foot, unless you find an adjustable-length side-stand. The center stand will not work very well, with a lowered FJR. I can put mine on the centerstand if I roll the rear wheel up onto a short piece of 2x4, first.
Lastly, consider a pair of riding boots with tall, aggressive treads (waffle-stompers). You will be walking taller with them, also. I found some modern "tactical" combat boots that are great, without looking like the old U.S. Army combat boots or like (flashy) racing gear. They have side-zippers and cost about half the price of racing boots. Some here have suggested using lift shoes (lift boots?), but I'd call that a last resort.
Cheers,
Infrared