fjr lower bike

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That link was no good! It don't say if I growth my legs! I need legs longer, not hite! :headbonk:
There was another link posted, a while back which described a surgical procedure to make your legs longer. They make an incision in each leg, break the bones and add a spacer with a screw. Each day, the screw is turned, extending the spacer until the desired leg length is achieved. Bone regrowth fills the space, eventually. I would imagine the procedure is expensive, painful and potentially dangerous.

I like boots with thick soles better!

 
There was another link posted, a while back which described a surgical procedure to make your legs longer. They make an incision in each leg, break the bones and add a spacer with a screw. Each day, the screw is turned, extending the spacer until the desired leg length is achieved. Bone regrowth fills the space, eventually. I would imagine the procedure is expensive, painful and potentially dangerous.I like boots with thick soles better!
Watch the movie 'Gattica' This procedure is shown in detail...

...I think I'll just lower the bike.

...great movie by the way...

 
I know these post are old but being vertically challenged myself I have been looking into what I could do to solve this problem . I like everything about the bike with the exception of my butt getting sore from the seat supporting mostly in the center and not being able to put more than my toes on the ground when stopped . I have a seat on order that is suppose to be lower and more comfortable and some platform shoes on order as well . I never felt like I needed to be taller before even when my inseam of about 29" let my Jeans touch the ground . When I was a little younger I was almost 5'11" but in my old age I have srank down to near 5'9" which I find difficult to believe although I do have some back trouble. I think I'll be happier not lowering the bike and screwing up the handling , ground clearance , side stand lenth , center stand lenth and looks of the bike.

Larry

 
The pain-in-the-*** seat is unrelated to height or inseam.

I am on tiptoes when stopped, which I actually like. As an alternative, one foot on the peg and one foot flat on the asphalt, with bike leaning as if on the side stand.

 
I just put a set of these on my bike...... I like and for you Americans they are in Michigan.

soupysperformance.com

They sell the links and a adjustable side stand.

 
huron52, did you install those yourself. I checked the link; looks pretty simple?

 
I just got lowering kit to my bike as well. I have not installed it yet, but I'll do it during two weeks. That kit lowering my bike about 30mm (1.2 inch). Huron52 or anyone else what you think about original side stand, is it stll ok? How much you lowering your bike? I got mine from https://www.lustracing.co.uk

 
HELP would like to lower the seat or bike by aleast 2 inchs
italiagene,

Yes, you can lower the FJR an inch, and maybe more. I did that for mine, and it's fine by me. Use the Low seat position (see the Owner's Manual). Need an Owner's Manual? This download-able .PDF manual will be the Aussie version, but close enough, maybe, for most work on the bike. You can read the USA manual online, but you can't print it. Fill in the blanks, here:

https://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/index.php

Check the Owner's Manual for lowering the front seat. Where the front seat tab goes into the frame at the gas tank, pull off the small square plastic cover there and re-set it lower, or just leave it off, to expose the Low seat position socket for the front seat tab.

I also went with a low Corbin seat, made with us in mind, but almost any custom seat will help, if it is made for you and your measurements. I would only avoid the Russell seats, because they mostly raise you higher. You will want a seat that is cut narrow at the front, if possible

There is a seat bracket support (#6 in the drawing)

https://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/2006-yamaha-fjr13abs-fjr13av-seat-assembly.html

which can be sprung free of the pivot points and removed, to lower the seat further. You can also remove the front rubber buttons under the seat (use some water and they can pop out easily). Then glue a strip of very thin sheet rubber (inner tube stuff) to the frame there instead. If the rear shock is adjustable, reduce the preload and/or height setting a bit, if that will be comfortable for you.

Then I had my favorite bike shop install the Kouba Links at the rear suspension, which was cheap enough. They also lowered the front end of the FJR to match with a wrench, sliding the fork tubes maybe 1/2" higher in the fork clamps, to retain some good handling. The bike will be about an inch closer to the ground, but unless you grind the pegs a lot when riding now, there won't be too much difference in the available lean angle. You will need the side-stand cut down and welded at the foot, unless you find an adjustable-length side-stand. The center stand will not work very well, with a lowered FJR. I can put mine on the centerstand if I roll the rear wheel up onto a short piece of 2x4, first.

Lastly, consider a pair of riding boots with tall, aggressive treads (waffle-stompers). You will be walking taller with them, also. I found some modern "tactical" combat boots that are great, without looking like the old U.S. Army combat boots or like (flashy) racing gear. They have side-zippers and cost about half the price of racing boots. Some here have suggested using lift shoes (lift boots?), but I'd call that a last resort.

Cheers,

Infrared

 
Thank you for your answer. I see that lowering kit is enough for me. I only worried about side stand length. I have to try, because 1.2 inch is not so much.

 
I got my shortened side stand from a guy here on the forum. He had it cut and shortened. He had it on for here free just had to pay shipping costs. I lowered mine 1 inch and I find "why didn't I do this years ago"

The nice thing about the soupys is that they are turn buckles so if you want more or less once they are installed no problem.

 
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I got my shortened side stand from a guy here on the forum. He had it cut and shortened. He had it on for here free just had to pay shipping costs. I lowered mine 1 inch and I find "why didn't I do this years ago"
The nice thing about the soupys lowering links is that they are turn buckles so if you want more or less once they are installed no problem.
Fixed that for our friend in Finland who may not be familiar. I've assisted a few folks install soupy's links on their bike. Never had a disappointed customer! They all loved the fact that they are adjustable, tweaking height a little after a few rides was the way to go for all of them. Soupy's also has adjustable side stands you can install.

 
Looks good. I have those links already but no adjustable. I have to think if I order adjustable side stands.

 
I just installed soupy's links tonight. Install took about a hour for the rear plus lowering the front forks. I only went 1 inch so far and will recheck my stance once my russell day long seat arrives. It was an easy install, but I had to be creative on supporting the bike.

2 qty saw horses and a 4x4 creating an a-frame across the bike. With the seat removed I used 2000lb nylon straps wrapped around the subframe just behind the tank, where the rider seat sits. The bike was on the center stand and once tied up I gently pushed the bike forward and the A-frame supported the weight. I suggest having a second person when installing the links, so someone can pull up on the tire when you push the bolts into the links. Also, I numbered each side of the 6 sided hex of link. So now I can see when the "x" number is facing the floor on one link, that same number on the other link should also be facing the floor.

Kyle

 
I just installed soupy's links tonight. Install took about a hour for the rear plus lowering the front forks. I only went 1 inch so far and will recheck my stance once my russell day long seat arrives. It was an easy install, but I had to be creative on supporting the bike. 2 qty saw horses and a 4x4 creating an a-frame across the bike. With the seat removed I used 2000lb nylon straps wrapped around the subframe just behind the tank, where the rider seat sits. The bike was on the center stand and once tied up I gently pushed the bike forward and the A-frame supported the weight. I suggest having a second person when installing the links, so someone can pull up on the tire when you push the bolts into the links. Also, I numbered each side of the 6 sided hex of link. So now I can see when the "x" number is facing the floor on one link, that same number on the other link should also be facing the floor. Kyle
Most excellent! Be sure to let us know how it works out for you. As mentioned earlier, folks I helped tweaked them as they went along then were good to go.

 
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