FJR T-Rex No-Cut Frame Sliders for Gen1 ('04-'05)

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FJRBluesman

Some call me... The STIG!
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I just purchased and installed a pair of T-Rex Racing, No-Cut frame sliders for my '05. They can be purchased at the T-Rex web site or ebay, for $89.99 plus shipping, an even $100. Easy Farkle, just remove the Left & Right side fairings and you're ready to go.

I spoke with Ramblin man on this forum before I bought these, he had installed this same set, and he told me that he had noticed on installation that the grip length was incorrect on a couple bolts, they bottomed out and he needed new hardware. He didn't want to wrench it down that little bit and force the shank into the threads of the motor mounts. He was correct. I had that problem with the right side lower mount. I'll explain what to use as I detail this.

Follow the T-Rex instructions with the frame sliders. The brackets are stamped with an "L" or an "R" for side orientation. When mounting the brackets make sure the welded nut is facing out. The instructions don't say this and the pictures don't really show it very well. I found nothing on the website with any pictures. I used Blue Loc-Tite on all bolt threads.

Left Side, I used the two T-Rex supplied M12x80mm bolts supplied, and a couple thinner washers I had, against the bolt head. The stock washers are against the frame and large aluminum inserts as stated in the instructions.

P1040369.jpg


Right Side, I used the supplied M12x70mm on the upper hole and the supplied large washer against the head of the bolt. The lower supplied M12x80mm grip length was too long and when you started to tighten it, it was hitting the shank and being forced into the threads. I went to the local fastener store and bought a stainless steel M12x70mm bolt and thin Spring washer. They had no cap head bolts so I used a standard hex head. Again the stock washers are between the frame and inserts.

P1040372.jpg


Here is the difference in grip length of the supplied M12x80mmm and a M12x75mm. I used a 70mm SS bolt, it was already installed so this is just a visual. If the supplied bolt only had a few more threads it would have been ok.

P1040366.jpg


Left side fairing istalled.

P1040373.jpg


Everything good so far. I then preinstalled the frame sliders to see how they fit. The supplied M10x50mm were too long, period. The bolts protruded thru the holes and hit the frame, both sides. I went back to the Fastener store and bought two stainless steel M10x45mm cap head bolts and also bought 4 #10 washers, to space this all out if they were still too long. I used the supplied washer, and two of my extra washers I purchased on each side. All fit well no issues. Hind site a 40mm length, with just the supplied washer would have done it too. The fairing has plenty of room around bolts sliders etc. Good to go.

This shows the difference in length of the two frame slider bolts (M10x50mm & M10x45mm).

P1040378.jpg


This is how it looks in the frame sliders, with the supplied washer. Since the nut recesses into the frame slider, the few threads that stick past are excess, or your standard 2-3 thread protrusion.

P1040379.jpg


Left side all installed.

P1040376.jpg


So for about $5 in extra hardware, I came out of this for $105, not bad. If you feel the frames sliders are too small buy a couple longer ones for about $30 and your fat city. Then it would cost you about $135 total for this out fit. Motovations Gen1 No-cut frame sliders are $189. The bolts are the same size as the T-Rex per the Motovation website. I have no idea if theirs fits all perfect. I can tell you this. The T-Rex brackets, frame sliders, etc are good quality SS and should serve the purpose. I pray I never use them.

Ride safe!

 
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Now why did ya go to all that extra work when you could have trashed the seller?????

Sum guys I just don't understand :D

Nice work bluesy.

:jester:

 
Gees Bust. When it got real tough, and it was looking bleak, I almost thought of torching it with a gallon of gas. Then I remembered how much gas was. I couldn't afford to do that, I think I came out ahead... :lol:

 
I forgot all about the slider bolts beeing way too long. I went to my "bolt bucket" for those. I was doing mine at 2:00am.

Everything you said about the instruction I give a +1. I actually had everything installed with the welded nuts on the back side because that was the only way the included slider bolts fit. I was pretty pissed to have to take all of the body work back off when I realized the sliders didn't line up.

Did you "pad" the back side of the brackets at all?

 
I hate to admit it RM, but I did the same thing installing the brackets backwards. A few extra words in the instructions would have been nice. Only when I mocked the fairing up did I realize what I did. Yeah I was bummed when I found out I had to turn the brackets around, but now I was an expert. Wham-bam, had it done and torqued in minutes.

Oooohh!! I knew I forgot something. You did say to pad the back side! Aggghhh. I'll get it next time I have 'er clothes off.

Thanks for your help on all this RM.

Cheers.

 
Gees Bust. When it got real tough, and it was looking bleak, I almost thought of torching it with a gallon of gas. Then I remembered how much gas was. I couldn't afford to do that, I think I came out ahead... :lol:
Ya Dork! If ya wana burn sumpin ferget gas or the other obvious combustibles! Use dryer softener sheets. Less likely to be detected when looking for a cause.

Might jus keep ya outa jail.

:jester:

 
I hope I'm not thread hijacking here or treading where I'm not supposed to, but frankjohnrobert13 got his thread about sliders closed. As a guy who does not have as much time to devote to my FJR as I want, I can sympathize with the guy. I was doing my rotors, sliders and PCIII all at 2:00am. The bolts I got had shanks that were too long or just plain too long. They were'nt stainless, just Zinc plated. I was pissed off too. No hardware stores I know that are open at 2:00 in the morning that will have metric bolts. I was lucky enough to have the wahsers I needed and a couple extra bolts so I could cobble the installation together.

I won't comment on the comments that got him a time out, but like frankjohnrobert13 I expect a kit to work without any extra effort on my part unless that effort is clearly advertised regardless of the "front end" through wich I purchase it.

Just two cents

 
I have the T-rex on my Gen 2. If you remember my "repair" thread, I posted the sliders cracked at the base

Heardmontpipefall037.jpg


could be faulty or could be from over torquing from the installing shop. I sent T-rex the pic, he sent a new slider, no questions. Drop him a line on the instruction correction and the bolt size and I'll bet he'll fix em for future buyers. I give his service an A +, the product, well, I hope I don't have to test it.

 
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