Alan that is a good idea for someone who doesn't want to solder, and it may be a little easier given the tight location of the BLACK WIDOW spider.I was incomplete in the text that accompanied the schematic screen shots. I should have been clear that the ground buss/common grounds ARE indeed the spider wires.
It may be a bit before Dave gets back to me about perhaps making simple grounding blocks to replace the spiders. The blocks will be easier than running new wires (I think) and will solve the electrical and heat problems of the OEM Black Widows.
Edited to add:
Alan draws with a blunt crayon -- Brass hex rod stock, 6 wires per spider, six faces on the rod stock. See the link in the paragraph above where I describe the block in more detail.
This is interesting. Can you get to the radiator wires by pulling the tank? Or do you need to pull side panels?Here's an idea.Maybe good , maybe not so good. Check it out and let me know. So maybe if someone didn't want to mess with the spiders they could remove the original grnd wires from the fans, ground the fans to the chassis by making up 2 new wires, then hook the original 2 fan grnd wires (previously removed) to the chassis. This will take the fans out of the equation and add 2 chassis grnd wires to the S4 (BLACK WIDOW) spider without modifying it.
Then they could tap into the Acc. jack or the glove box grnd wire or both, then run them to chassis also. This will add 1or 2 grnd wires to the S6 spider, and should take care of the headlights and shield drive.
I think that would take care of the overload situation. Of coarse they would still have to clean, and grease all the spiders once a year.
I couldn't have come up with this idea if not for RZ350s excellent chart of what goes where. Thanks RZ
More food for thought; A.C.
See previous post.This is interesting. Can you get to the radiator wires by pulling the tank? Or do you need to pull side panels?Here's an idea.
Then they could tap into the Acc. jack or the glove box grnd wire or both, then run them to chassis also. This will add 1or 2 grnd wires to the S6 spider, and should take care of the headlights and shield drive.
I think that would take care of the overload situation. Of coarse they would still have to clean, and grease all the spiders once a year.
I couldn't have come up with this idea if not for RZ350s excellent chart of what goes where. Thanks RZ
More food for thought; A.C.
You are welcome for the chart - just trying to figure this all out (like the rest of us).
I'm not necessarily asking about what the condition was at the time of the failure (although that is important too), but more curious about the normal conditions the bike sees. Anytime the spiders see excessive current, they could be degrading. The actual failure could occur sometime later at a random time if they were in a weakened state.
Well, I guess this proves there is room for the solder inside there. Thanks for giving it a try and reporting to us.
Replacing your headlights with an HID upgrade kit removes the entire headlight load from the bike's harness as the upgrade kit wires power directly from the battery through it's own relay. This would remove all of their ground current from any spiders and also the current on the positive side that runs through the self-destructing ignition switches.
Soldering is good as long as someone has the equipment, the skill and the wires aren't damaged. I have ripped off dcarvers picture because it shows a good example where the copper wires are too burned to be solderable. When copper takes on a pinkish red color they are too heavily oxidized for solder to wet and flow even with electrical grade flux.
The headlight grnd sounds better than the Acc plug or glove box grnd. The only reason I mentioned those earlier is because I thought it would be easy to get to. Either way it will help the S6 spider. But by taking the headlight out of the chain would be better I think.
