temp357
Well-known member
I just bought some new gloves. With these new gloves the throttle control and feel sux big time. I went back to my old gloves that are broken in and what a difference.
For All the Whiners About the driveline abruptness
- Thread starter temp357
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fjrchooser
Well-known member
I believe this is the first old glove farkle for the FJR that I've heard of. Probably should be moved to the technical section. :lol:
Fred H.
Well-known member
I'm tellin ya, you can play all the tricks you want with the CO settings, and throttle springs, and grips and gloves you want, but if you really want to get serious about fixing this problem, you are going to have to modify the pulley. Plain and simple, it works. No more drive line lash problems (ZERO). No more herky jerky, no more sensitive throttle. It makes the FJR ride like any other bike, and the way it should.
petey
Well-known member
Ok Fred, I need your help. I can't tell from the pictures you posted, exactly how the shim is installed. I realy would like to do the mod. Could/would you post a step by step to show/tell us how too?
Thanks
temp357
Well-known member
Fred did you put the 2005 throttle pully on the 2006? I read the post where you were looking into it, but last I saw was that the 2005 assembly was too expensive.
Well, technically you could put a pciii with a new map that accounts for the progressive pully rate right? The BMW K1200S had a lot of complaints with the same thing when it first came out and they fixed it with new fuel injection maps.
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I've wondered why Yamaha changed the throttle pulley. I'd guess they were trying to address the griping by many about their sore wrists and hands.
With the new pulley it would seem that you need to rotate the throttle less for steady-state cruise conditions -- your wrist is in less of a twist. Fewer degrees of rotation would equate to a more relaxed wrist.
In my experience a ThrottleRocker will solve the twitchy throttle problem. It also dramatically reduces wrist fatigue. And, of course with a ThrottleRocker there's no need to tightly grasp the throttle grip with the hand and fingers.
With the extended lever arm of the ThrottleRocker, a few degrees of throttle rotation equals a significant up-down movement of the ThrottleRocker arm. With a little practice one can develop a very precise control of the throttle with no changes to the throttle return spring, etc.
Finally, one can attenuate the throttle sensitivity by upshifting at lower speeds. This lowers the engine rpm which yields a correspondingly weaker, lower torque engine. You have a detuned, slightly bogged engine that offers slow responses to small throttle changes.
Riding at lower speeds in gears 1 & 2 and maybe 3 will result in a twitchy throttle for a high torque engine such as the FJR's. By upshifting and selecting a lower torque engine much of the twitch can magically go away.
With the new pulley it would seem that you need to rotate the throttle less for steady-state cruise conditions -- your wrist is in less of a twist. Fewer degrees of rotation would equate to a more relaxed wrist.
In my experience a ThrottleRocker will solve the twitchy throttle problem. It also dramatically reduces wrist fatigue. And, of course with a ThrottleRocker there's no need to tightly grasp the throttle grip with the hand and fingers.
With the extended lever arm of the ThrottleRocker, a few degrees of throttle rotation equals a significant up-down movement of the ThrottleRocker arm. With a little practice one can develop a very precise control of the throttle with no changes to the throttle return spring, etc.
Finally, one can attenuate the throttle sensitivity by upshifting at lower speeds. This lowers the engine rpm which yields a correspondingly weaker, lower torque engine. You have a detuned, slightly bogged engine that offers slow responses to small throttle changes.
Riding at lower speeds in gears 1 & 2 and maybe 3 will result in a twitchy throttle for a high torque engine such as the FJR's. By upshifting and selecting a lower torque engine much of the twitch can magically go away.
Hoog
Active member
I posted this earlier in a thread that TWN doesn't approve of. Maybe it is more appropriate here.......
I believe this pulley change is directly related to the clutch engagement rate for the AE. The computer is just better in the friction zone than most of us. That doesn't surprise me at all. We owners of "normal" '06s got the benefit of the AE required higher output stator, and to balance things out, the counter progressive pulley.
I don't have a problem with it after 2500 miles, but it was very noticable during the learning curve.
twowheelnut
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Dude, I don't approve of anything so don't twist your titties. My point in that thread is that the guy was fishing and hooked a bunch of fish. Only problem is, no of 'em were keepers! :grin:
[SIZE=8pt]This post approved by Good Postkeeping © 2006 by TWN Humor Publications[/SIZE]
Rogue
Well-known member
twowheelnut
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Rogue
Well-known member
I think you should add it to your signature!There I fixed you mistake for you.
I rather fancy that! Thanks! :good:
Fred H.
Well-known member
Lots of folks are asking how I installed the shim I made.
The trick was getting the hooked end over the tab on the throttle. I did this by turning it upside down and backwards from how it lays when it is on the pulley. With the open end of the wire pointing toward the front of the bike, and the hook facing down, I threaded the small gap in my hook over the tab on the pulley. Once I got the hook over the tab, I simply laid the wire back over the pulley and pushed it in place into the groove on the pulley. I did all this with the throttle pinned at wide open. The hard part was finding enough open road to do it in (just kidding guys).
It would probably be smart to tie some dental floss onto the shim so you could retrieve it if you drop it. Then just cut off the floss when you have it in place.
I was thinking today that there is probably a much easier solution. I bet you could put a zip tie of the right size over the tab and zip it onto the tab, and then use the tail of the tie to act as your shim in the pulley groove.
The trick was getting the hooked end over the tab on the throttle. I did this by turning it upside down and backwards from how it lays when it is on the pulley. With the open end of the wire pointing toward the front of the bike, and the hook facing down, I threaded the small gap in my hook over the tab on the pulley. Once I got the hook over the tab, I simply laid the wire back over the pulley and pushed it in place into the groove on the pulley. I did all this with the throttle pinned at wide open. The hard part was finding enough open road to do it in (just kidding guys).
It would probably be smart to tie some dental floss onto the shim so you could retrieve it if you drop it. Then just cut off the floss when you have it in place.
I was thinking today that there is probably a much easier solution. I bet you could put a zip tie of the right size over the tab and zip it onto the tab, and then use the tail of the tie to act as your shim in the pulley groove.
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S76
Well-known member
Fred,
Could you please elighten me on the theory of what you accomplished with the wire shim mod. I am not familiar with exactly how the cable and pulley are acting in this application and don't have my bike apart to study it. But, does this mod effectively increase the diameter of the throttle shaft pulley where the cable rides so it slows down the throttle butterfly action with a given amount of throttle grip twist? If that is true, does the cable actually ride on top of the wire mod to acomplish this? If that is true aren't you afraid of the cable getting stuck along side the wire mod insert?
Or am I all wet here? Maybe something else with the linkage is being accomplished? Please, I am not being critical at all, I just want to understand.
Thanks for your time.
bob
Could you please elighten me on the theory of what you accomplished with the wire shim mod. I am not familiar with exactly how the cable and pulley are acting in this application and don't have my bike apart to study it. But, does this mod effectively increase the diameter of the throttle shaft pulley where the cable rides so it slows down the throttle butterfly action with a given amount of throttle grip twist? If that is true, does the cable actually ride on top of the wire mod to acomplish this? If that is true aren't you afraid of the cable getting stuck along side the wire mod insert?
Or am I all wet here? Maybe something else with the linkage is being accomplished? Please, I am not being critical at all, I just want to understand.
Thanks for your time.
bob
Fred H.
Well-known member
S76
Well-known member
Ahh, OK. So it's just basically increasing the diameter of the pulley to slow down the throttle action at the throttle body shaft. It's interesting in that I would not have imagined increasing the pulley size that amount would have much effect, but obvoiusly it has.
Thank you for the explanation. I am definitely going to explore this more. Maybe a piece of the proper diameter brake line, cut in half lenght ways, bent and bonded into place would do nicely? This would provide a smooth groove floor for the cable and retain the side wall depth for safety so the cable can't jump the track. Just a thought at this point.
Thanks Fred,
Bob
Thank you for the explanation. I am definitely going to explore this more. Maybe a piece of the proper diameter brake line, cut in half lenght ways, bent and bonded into place would do nicely? This would provide a smooth groove floor for the cable and retain the side wall depth for safety so the cable can't jump the track. Just a thought at this point.
Thanks Fred,
Bob
