For those wanting 20W40 oil

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Mark G

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I've never used the particular motor oil. I have used some of their industrial products and found them to be excellent for the specific applications. It's very expensive.

I have no intention of buying any, I just use 10W40, regular motor oil, but I noticed this stuff, and thought I'd post it here for those wanting the exact weight and the "very best" oil you can get...synthetic.

The stuff really is purple, by the way.

Free shipping.

https://www.rpmoil.com/index.php?main_page=index

 
I have no intention of buying any, I just use 10W40, regular motor oil, ....https://www.rpmoil.com/index.php?main_page=index
Regular motor oil????

Regular motor oil is not designed for motorcycles. My understanding is, and you may want to search on this topic with a well-covered section by Jestal, that regular motor oil has friction modifiers that mess up motorycle clutches.

You should be using some form of motorcycle oil.

 
I have no intention of buying any, I just use 10W40, regular motor oil, ....

https://www.rpmoil.com/index.php?main_page=index
Regular motor oil????

Regular motor oil is not designed for motorcycles. My understanding is, and you may want to search on this topic with a well-covered section by Jestal, that regular motor oil has friction modifiers that mess up motorycle clutches.

You should be using some form of motorcycle oil.
Well, what he should do....? I think you'll find that 10/40 oils sold in the U.S. don't have the dreaded "Energy Conserving" label on them? And, car engines have similar pistons, cams, gears, chains, etc -- run for hundreds of thousands of miles, often get scant attention (maintenence-wise), and seem to get along quite well with "regular motor oil"?Of course -- with an engine, reportedly, as frail as the FJR's -- one can't be too careful! :eek:

And, as hard as most riders push these puppies -- y'all run at 75% or better? right? it'd be "cheap insurance" to just run the best. Ahh, but there's the rub.... ;)

 
And, car engines have similar pistons, cams, gears, chains, etc -- run for hundreds of thousands of miles, often get scant attention (maintenence-wise), and seem to get along quite well with "regular motor oil"?Of course -- with an engine, reportedly, as frail as the FJR's -- one can't be too careful! :eek:

And, as hard as most riders push these puppies -- y'all run at 75% or better? right? it'd be "cheap insurance" to just run the best. Ahh, but there's the rub.... ;)


Those car engines running on GF4 oils with the starburst symbol are NOT running wet clutches like most motorcycle engines.

I'll have to check further but I believe that there are several 10W40 oils that are GF4 approved and have the starburst symbol for gasoline engines...meaning that they have the friction modifiers in them.

You cannot just lump all engines together and assume that what works well for one will work well for all of them. It takes a more detailed understanding of how the engine is designed and what content is in the engine to determine what oils might or might not be appropriate.

We mentioned the wet clutch already. You do NOT want any normal, gasoline engine or automotive oil in the FJR due to the friction modifiers.

Most all modern car engines have roller tappets, no distributor gears driving the oil pump, roller rockers, etc... All items designed to minimize the dependency on the anti-wear properties of the oil. This allows the anti-wear ZDP additive concentration to be reduced in normal gasoline engine oils to minimize the cat converter poisoning from the phosphorus in the ZDP.

On the converse the FJR engine has 16 rubbing element, direct acting tappets and fairly radical cam profiles that do need higher levels of the ZDP antiwear additives to ensure minimum wear and long mileage survival. Not that the FJR engine is fragile...it just has design features that make "normal" oils for gasoline engines (in cars) not appropriate as stated above.

Forget all the concern over 10W40 or 20W40 or spending mega dollars for specialty botique oils. Buy the 15W40 Rotella/Delo/Delvac oils marketed as "diesel oils" and forget about it. The so called diesel oils have much higher levels of the ZDP antiwear additives and no friction modifiers to cause your wet clutch to slip with time and miles.

And if you know nothing about oil please stop spreading bad information.

 
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You know what Jestal? It's a damned shame your big oil thread dropped off the EZboard. Lots of good info there. Now you are doomed to repeat yourself every 3 weeks or so.

 
You know what Jestal? It's a damned shame your big oil thread dropped off the EZboard. Lots of good info there. Now you are doomed to repeat yourself every 3 weeks or so.
If he were so inclined I think we should offer to have him host an oil FAQ or Facts-O'-Oil thread.

 
jestal.....And if you know nothing about oil please stop spreading bad information.
Maybe we should chastise MamaYama while we're at it? In their MOM they recco SE,SF,SG or higher, no chemical additives, and no diesel oils. They also warn against the "dreaded" Energy Conserving label. In America (for whatever reason?) they allow only 20W-40 viscosity. In the rest-of-the-world they list 10W-40 for the widest operating range (temperature-wise); then 15W-40 (more limited range); and, lastly, 20W-40 (being the most limited in temp range). What a person knows is sometimes relatively obscure -- whereas the apparent knowledge of some may be all too easy to ascertain....

 
What would be nice would be a list of oils that are "FJR safe". Hell, I just got some Valvoline 20w-50 partial syn because I didn't know any better. Guess I'll avoid that stuff next change.

 
I tried that purple stuff, 10W40 though. My local dealer sells it.

Wasn't impressed with the shifting, seemed to be harder to shift.

Oil was dark purple out of bottle. Easy to see in sight glass but looked dirty from day one.

Just my $02.

 
And, car engines have similar pistons, cams, gears, chains, etc -- run for hundreds of thousands of miles, often get scant attention (maintenence-wise), and seem to get along quite well with "regular motor oil"?

Of course -- with an engine, reportedly, as frail as the FJR's -- one can't be too careful! :eek:

And, as hard as most riders push these puppies -- y'all run at 75% or better? right? it'd be "cheap insurance" to just run the best. Ahh, but there's the rub.... ;)


Those car engines running on GF4 oils with the starburst symbol are NOT running wet clutches like most motorcycle engines.

I'll have to check further but I believe that there are several 10W40 oils that are GF4 approved and have the starburst symbol for gasoline engines...meaning that they have the friction modifiers in them.

You cannot just lump all engines together and assume that what works well for one will work well for all of them. It takes a more detailed understanding of how the engine is designed and what content is in the engine to determine what oils might or might not be appropriate.

We mentioned the wet clutch already. You do NOT want any normal, gasoline engine or automotive oil in the FJR due to the friction modifiers.

Most all modern car engines have roller tappets, no distributor gears driving the oil pump, roller rockers, etc... All items designed to minimize the dependency on the anti-wear properties of the oil. This allows the anti-wear ZDP additive concentration to be reduced in normal gasoline engine oils to minimize the cat converter poisoning from the phosphorus in the ZDP.

On the converse the FJR engine has 16 rubbing element, direct acting tappets and fairly radical cam profiles that do need higher levels of the ZDP antiwear additives to ensure minimum wear and long mileage survival. Not that the FJR engine is fragile...it just has design features that make "normal" oils for gasoline engines (in cars) not appropriate as stated above.

Forget all the concern over 10W40 or 20W40 or spending mega dollars for specialty botique oils. Buy the 15W40 Rotella/Delo/Delvac oils marketed as "diesel oils" and forget about it. The so called diesel oils have much higher levels of the ZDP antiwear additives and no friction modifiers to cause your wet clutch to slip with time and miles.

And if you know nothing about oil please stop spreading bad information.
so the mobil clean 5000 10w40 wont kill my bike?

 
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