Fork Seal issues. Grrr.... Please help

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So I have a leaking fork seal that puked fork oil all over the right side brakes over the winter. I couldn't figure out how to get the damned washer off the cartridge. I tried the impact wrench and spun the cartridge up to 10k rpm. Then I tried putting the spring etc back in and spun it back up to 10k rpm. Not enough spring tension. I found an old castle nut and put it with the washer to increase the tension. Success!

Although I ordered 2 sets of parts, I have no intention of changing the left non-leaking side. I will change the fluid, but that's it.

What a crappy job.

 
I can't say for sure what the issue was. I removed, disassembled and inspected each fork leg for scoring, damage or anything misplaced, misaligned, etc. I can say that it was not the right fork leg like I thought it was, it was the left. Once I got it open and the top cap off and fluid out, moving the inner tube made a definite metal on metal scraping sound. Eek. It's possible that I slightly damaged the new bushing during installation, it had a bit of and 'edge' to it. I smoothed it out with an emery board. Other than that I don't know. When I reassembled I made sure that "washer #7" was well seated.

Anyway, problem solved!
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That's a relief, I was pretty stressed there for a while.
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BTW, in a moment of resignation, I called my local Yamaha dealer to see what they would charge me to do the job...$275 labor plus parts. And that was with me removing the fork tubes from the bike and bringing them in! So, I'm thinking $400. Um... https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/****.gif to the dealer. I'm still glad I did this myself.

 
So when you took it apart the second time, looking for something scraping and making that metallic noise, the #7 washer was properly seated? I'm wondering what could have been out of sorts. DId you notice how much quicker and easier it was to take the forks apart the second time? When I took my forks apart the first time, I used the slide hammer method to pop the seals out. Doing so caused a slight lip to appear on the seals (which I threw away). All that banging had some consequences. I'm guessing you reused the same seals after you took it apart the second time? I can understand how you'd get a raised edge from REMOVING the seals; just like I did. However, I'm wondering how you might cause this problem while installing them. What did you use to install the bushings and seals?

???

Also, could you post up a pic of your coat hanger tool? We've all talked about making something up, but I've never seen one yet. Though I made the tool with the 26mm socket, I only used it to reinstall and torque the damper assy's. I never used the 26mm extension tool to remove them as you did: the #7 washers were in the way. Also, please describe how you reseated those washers.

Gary

 
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So when you took it apart the second time, looking for something scraping and making that metallic noise, the #7 washer was properly seated? I'm wondering what could have been out of sorts. DId you notice how much quicker and easier it was to take the forks apart the second time? When I took my forks apart the first time, I used the slide hammer method to pop the seals out. Doing so caused a slight lip to appear on the seals (which I threw away). All that banging had some consequences. I'm guessing you reused the same seals after you took it apart the second time? I can understand how you'd get a raised edge from REMOVING the seals; just like I did. However, I'm wondering how you might cause this problem while installing them. What did you use to install the bushings and seals?
As far as I can tell, washer #7 was seated all the way in both tubes. Oh yes, I'm nearly a pro now! I had both of them totally redone in about an hour ($275/hr, not bad). To install the bushings, I placed the new one in position first, then put the old one on top of it, then put the seal spacer washer above that (#15 in the diagram above), then used the 2" pvc and a block of wood to drive the bushing down in. I also used the pvc to drive the seals in.

 
Also, could you post up a pic of your coat hanger tool? We've all talked about making something up, but I've never seen one yet. Though I made the tool with the 26mm socket, I only used it to reinstall and torque the damper assy's. I never used the 26mm extension tool to remove them as you did: the #7 washers were in the way. Also, please describe how you reseated those washers.


Gary
Crap, I forgot to take a picture of the coat hanger. I used a very stout hanger, cut the "hook" part off, straightened the whole thing off and just bent U or V shape, about a 1/4" at the end. Pretty simple. To re-seat them, after torquing the cartridge retaining bolts, I slid the washer over the rod and kind of jiggled the whole thing around until the waster centered its self, then I slid the damper holder tool back in and tapped the washer down until it was seated all the way around.

 
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To re-seat them, after torquing the cartridge retaining bolts, I slid the washer over the rod and kind of jiggled the whole thing around until the waster centered its self, then I slid the damper holder tool back in and tapped the washer down until it was seated all the way around.
Aha! So the home-made sprinkler handle damper holder tool is also a #7 washer seating tool! :thumbsup: Who knew? ;)

 
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