From Nuetral to First

[Motorad]

I recently purchased a used 08 FJR1300A. The transmission is really nice and shifting is a breeze. My only complaint has been going from neutral to first, like at a stop, waiting for the light to change. It grinds pretty good.

So far, and what I most recently discovered is: bike in nuetral, pull in the clutch, give the throttle a good blip, wait for R's to drop, and then put it into first. This seems to yield the most consistent, least grinding results.

What's your trick? Or is it just grind and bear it.

I almost find it better to leave it in first gear with the clutch pulled in at a light (that gets old too). It always goes into first like butter when approaching a stop going from 2nd to 1st. I've read all about the clutch plate clean and lube treatment. The trans works so nice othewise I'm inclined to think I don't need to do that. It never leaps forward going into first. Idle RPM is about 1100.

I am loving this bike. I once had an 07 and I think the 08 throttle response, throttle spring tension, fuel mapping, clutch pull, and brakes are significantly improved. Or maybe I just forgot how good they really are.

Rod

 

[Bugnatr]

You may be shifting into first to slowly which can cause some grinding. Shift into first with authority and enjoy the clunk.

Check you idle speed, if it's high it may cause some grinding, I use the double clutch method during high idle in cold starts, seems to help.

 

[mcatrophy]

Is your clutch lever set to 1? It should be OK in all positions, but worth a check.

Could be air in the clutch fluid, try bleeding it.

I wouldn't rule out the clutch clean/soak.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mine seems to shift easier into first if you hold the clutch in 5-8 seconds (no blips) before a positive shift into first. I believe it allows the transmission shafts (which are still spinning) to slow down.

If that doesn't help, there's numerous posts (here on the forum) about disassembling the clutch and soaking the friction plates as some came from the factory with some sort of sticky assembly lube on them...

Scott

 

[Checkswrecks]

First & easiest idea is that the idle is too high. Make it about 900 rpm and see if that helps.

But a lot of the 2007-2008 bikes had sticky clutch plates. Taking the plates out, lightly cleaning the black sludge and re-installing with a new gasket is cheap and quick. It'll also make your shifting a lot smoother. Read more here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...tch+soak+plates

Checks

 

[FJR Flyer]

MSF recommends you always have it in first gear when you are stopped, so you can quickly move if a situation arises. This saved my bacon once while I was riding my FJ to work a couple years back. Long story, but a drunk driver slammed full speed into the back of a car stopped on the oncoming side of the intersection. Gas tank immediately caught fire as the car is pushed into the cars in front of me. I was in the left lane. I quickly shot between the cars in the right lane. The car on fire stopped at the SUV behind me and both were burned to a crisp. Not sure I would have had time to get my hands to the bars, get it in gear, and move.

Sadly, the driver of the car that got hit was an off-duty detective on his way to pick up his daughter for school. He didn't make it. The drunk driver walked away.

In any case, if you downshift into first before you are completely stopped, it usually clicks right in, for me, at least.

 

[wfooshee]

Don't be gentle. Stomp that thing into first. It's actually better for the internals than slowly moving it and allowing the grind, which wears the dogs.

But as stated previously, sticky clutch plates will change the picture. If it shifts successfully with a firm quick shift but the bike lurches, then you've got the sticky plates. They need to come out for a soaking.

 

[08FJR4ME]

MSF recommends you always have it in first gear when you are stopped, so you can quickly move if a situation arises. This saved my bacon once while I was riding my FJ to work a couple years back. Long story, but a drunk driver slammed full speed into the back of a car stopped on the oncoming side of the intersection. Gas tank immediately caught fire as the car is pushed into the cars in front of me. I was in the left lane. I quickly shot between the cars in the right lane. The car on fire stopped at the SUV behind me and both were burned to a crisp. Not sure I would have had time to get my hands to the bars, get it in gear, and move.
Sadly, the driver of the car that got hit was an off-duty detective on his way to pick up his daughter for school. He didn't make it. The drunk driver walked away.

In any case, if you downshift into first before you are completely stopped, it usually clicks right in, for me, at least.

Not what is was taught when i took my MSF coarse. The bike had to be in nuetral when coming to a complete stop.

Has something changed?

I would try adjusting the the clutch lever first. Try each position 1-5 releasing the clutch to see how much freeplay that you have.

The second thing I would try is holding the clutch lever in several seconds before initiating the shift.

If both of these fail maybe a clutch soak would be in order.

JMO, Dave

 

[Patriot]

at the risk of NEPRT: synthetic oil

 

[SkooterG]

This thread is confusing the hell out of me. Set the idle lower?!?!?! Synthetic oil? With all due respect Mike, that's a crock.

Conventional wisdom around here is that a low idle causes various problems. I would keep it at the recommended 1100-1300 rpm.

For the OP, is it 'grinding', or a 'clunk'? Two different beasts. And you seem to be getting advice for both.

 

[Toecutter]

MSF recommends you always have it in first gear when you are stopped

Not what is was taught when i took my MSF coarse. The bike had to be in nuetral when coming to a complete stop.
Has something changed?

Not sure about their policy, but being in gear at a stop will always be mine. It sure seems safer to me, as well as the trans goes into first much smoother at a slow roll. I downshift all the way down, just in case I need some unscheduled juice to get outta trouble....

 

[Motorad]

This thread is confusing the hell out of me. Set the idle lower?!?!?! Synthetic oil? With all due respect Mike, that's a crock.
Conventional wisdom around here is that a low idle causes various problems. I would keep it at the recommended 1100-1300 rpm.

For the OP, is it 'grinding', or a 'clunk'? Two different beasts. And you seem to be getting advice for both.

Skooter,

It's a grind not a clunk. It doesn't learch forward. Idle rpm is 1100. The trans is otherwise great. Do you think the clutch plate clean and soak will fix it?

Rod

 

[wfooshee]

I still think if it's a grind that you're just being too tentative stepping it down. Don't squeeze the shifter down into first, step on it sharply. You don't ease a non-synchronized transmission into gear like you do a car box. Whack it. Go for the Klunk!

As for being in first or neutral while stopped, I'm not gonna hold onto the clutch for 4 minutes at a red light. But when I stop, I get all the way down to first as I'm stopping, as I was taught in MSF Basic Rider, and I hold the clutch until I'm sure my six is clear, then get neutral.

(In my MSF course, when we did the hard stop we put our left foot down and waited for the instructor to come step on the shifter. If it went into first we failed the stop. If it was already in first, it was good.)

 

[DELETE-PLEASE]

I agree with the above. A nice firm tap or push into first, enjoy the clunk. It'll just let you know you're there. If it still doesn't go in, keep firm downward pressure and slowly release the clutch. At some point it'll engage and then just pull the clutch in after you feel it slip down into first.

Alexi

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

wow

Ygtbfkm

 

[redcat]

Pull in the clutch and wait a few seconds while the wet plates stop spinning. Then it goes in easily

 

[RadioHowie]

wow
Ygtbfkm

Mincing words again, Joe???

 

[fjrob1300]

wow
Ygtbfkm

I hear ya

 

[Bustanut joker]

wow
Ygtbfkm

Mincing words again, Joe???

No, it's a mince pie recipe ya tool..

:jester: