FYI for all. The bolts holding the two halves together use a 10mm 6 point socket. I tried a 12 point but almost rounded it off. For those that have never done this here is the procedure. (I just did this on my 07 FJR)
1 Remove front wheel. To do this you have to compress the brake pads into the calipers. Do so using your fingers. If your hands are not strong enough ask your wife to do this for you
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2 Once wheel is removed put a plastic pen or other soft non breakable object between the pads. Do not use a wooden pencil.
3 While observing the brake pads slowly apply the front brake. Both upper and lower pads should move together, except for the right pads. I will get to that. On the left side if all of the pads are not moving together it's time for some new seals or to just clean the pistons.
4 Once the pads hold the pen in place stop. Now the right lower pad is the linked brake. Using the foot rear brake do the same thing. Again both pads should move together.
NOTE (The term both pads refers to the pair of pads opposite each other. Each caliper has two sets of pads. For this procedure we will call them upper and lower due to their orientation when properly installed on the bike. With the right side the upper piston is larger than the lower. The lower set of pads is the linked brake.
5 Once all of the pistons are minorly extended crack the three hex bolts at the top of the calipers. You are breaking free the locktite, that is all. DO NOT LOOSEN. Just loose enough so you don't have to fight with them on the bench.
6 For the purpose of this procedure we will do a PITA brake flush. Yes there are easier ways but let's just get this done and done right shall we. Put a container below the brake calipers to hold break fluid. Remove banjo bolt and move it behind the caliper and let it drain. (This is a PITA flush because you will have empty master cylinder and empty break lines and abs box which means lots of work getting the air bubbles out.) There is a less labor intensive way to do this which several people will post after this.)
7 Once banjo bolt has been removed, remove the caliper from the fork.
8 In a clean area, place an absorbent cloth. With the caliper in this cloth remove the brake pads.
9 Once the pads have been removed, use a 10mm six point socket. Remove the three hex bolts you loosened earlier.
10 You should have two halves. Using an old inner tube or a cloth like a shammy, place the cloth or rubber between the walls of the piston and a pair of needle nose type pliers. (WARNING, DO NOT SCRATCH THE WALLS OF THE PISTONS. ANY DAMAGE WILL CAUSE LEAKS. USE A QUALITY CLOTH OR RUBBER. NO METAL TO METAL CONTACT.) Twist and pull the piston out of the socket.
11 Once the pistons are out, drain any remaining fluid. Inside the socket you will see two seals. The one closest to the opening is the dust seal. The wider one down low is the oil seal. Using your finger, move it in and out of the socket. You will feel the lowest part of the oil seal is just slightly higher than the edge of the seal closest to the opening. This is what keeps the oil inside the cavity. Remember this, it will come back in a moment.
12 Remove the old dust seal and oil seal using a very small punch or flat head screwdriver. (NOTE) I used the same screwdriver I use for the throttle body sync. Smaller the better. Use caution. Do not scratch the inside of the socket. Its not that hard but the first seal is always the most difficult.
13 Once the seals are removed, clean the socket with a clean cloth. Do not use anything abrasive. Not sure if you're supposed to use spray can brake cleaner but I did. I also used a clean old terrycloth wash rag saturated with brake cleaner to get the grime off the pistons and the caliper. Spray and rub, it comes off.
14 Once the caliper dries from the cleaner insert new seals. Before inserting new seals use caliper seal grease (ACC-SLCNG-RS-00). Put a thin layer on the entire o-ring then insert back into the grove in the pot. I like bottom to top but what ever floats your boat. Once the seals are in, rub your finger inside the socket feeling the new seals. Do you feel the bottom edge of the oil seal being more raised? IF NOT, STOP! Take it to your local shop and have them check they are properly installed. If the lower edge is not raised, the brake fluid can push past the seal and cause brake failure and possible injury or death.
15 Once seals are lubed, dip finger in brake fluid or caliper seal grease and put a film on the outside of the piston. LUBE IS GOOD.
16 Pressing straight down, slowly press the pistons into the socket. They are tight but with a coaxing they will go in. Push them all the way to the bottom until the pistons are flush with the calipers.
17 Repeat process for the right side. The only difference is you have to use the rear brake pedal to extend the lower, smaller pistons.
18 Reverse the breakdown starting with putting the two halves back together then install brake pads... This is also a good time to get out an old tooth brush and clean the threads of the caliper and the rod that holds the brake pads.
Finally, bleed your brake system thoroughly. Any air will cause the brakes not to work properly which could cause brake failure, serious injury or even death. Take your time and when in doubt call your local shop or just take the part to them and have them help. IF, after you have bleed your brakes your brake levers still feel slightly spongy do the following. With the caliper off of the fork but still connected to the brake lines, put a medium flat head screwdriver between the brake pads. Squeeze the brake lever until the pads press against the screwdriver. With the screwdriver push the pads back to their starting position where the pistions are all the way back into the pot. Do this at lease once, more is better. After that bleed brakes as normal to be sure all of the air is out of the system. If you still have spongy or questionable brakes contact a trusted shop, they will know what to do. Good luck and be safe.
