Front end lift

[Potential]

That looks pretty neat. By the way, the front wheel can be removed even when it's barely off the ground; just remove the fender first. Four bolts hold it on and with it off, the front wheel can be slid off and on horizontally. This also makes it a bit easier to align the axle if you only have to lift it up an inch.

 

[FJReady]

Lee,

I have to admire the slick Home Depot Engineering solution. It must have been fun and rewarding to have that idea come to fruition. Congrats! I know that would have taken 3 trips to the plumbing dept for me.

When I had that need to get both wheels off I took a much lower tech solution: Paint Can.

Simply pick up the front of the bike and slide in the paint can. Most of the weight of the bike is on the center stand. I put a couple blocks under the stand to give just a little additional clearance to pull wheels/tires out.

Git-R-Done!

 

[08FJR4ME]

That's what I like about these Feeejr guys (and gals) they are so resourceful.

Kudo's on the handy work. :clapping:

 

[Lee B.]

That looks pretty neat. By the way, the front wheel can be removed even when it's barely off the ground; just remove the fender first. Four bolts hold it on and with it off, the front wheel can be slid off and on horizontally. This also makes it a bit easier to align the axle if you only have to lift it up an inch.

good to know, thanks. Looking at the brakes it seemed like a pull straight forward would work. I think I read in some previous post that the fender needed to be off.

In this case it isn't even an inch. I figure a piece of 3/4" plywood will lift the wheel up to the axle or very close.

 

[Geezer]

Looking at the brakes it seemed like a pull straight forward would work. I think I read in some previous post that the fender needed to be off.

Hmm, I never thought about trying that. Remove the fender, leave the calipers in place, and just remove the wheel straight out the front. I'll give it a try for my next new tire.

 

[JamesK]

Or you can also go with this :thumbsup: this lift retails for $200 at HarborFreight Tools. This way you can also remove the forks if necessary and definitely have no clearance issues when removing the front wheel.

 

[Harald]

There's more than one way to skin a cat and I always love to see good Redneck engineering at work!

Not to take away from your nice tool, but I use FJReady's method. Put the bike onto the centerstand ontop of a board (allows rear tire to be pulled more easily), use a regular floor jack to lift the bike underneath the headers using a custom wooden board that doesn't put pressure on the pipes and run a safety strap from the centerstand to a slider to ensure the bike can't roll off the centerstand. I just keep the jack underneath, but can see the need for the paint can method for long term storage. I can pull both wheels for tire changes and the only special tool required is the custom wood board with risers to clear the header pipes.

I haven't had the need yet, but I'm sure my lift will also work for pulling the forks. So what makes a front stand better than the method I use?

 

[Lee B.]

There's more than one way to skin a cat and I always love to see good Redneck engineering at work!
Not to take away from your nice tool, but I use FJReady's method. Put the bike onto the centerstand ontop of a board (allows rear tire to be pulled more easily), use a regular floor jack to lift the bike underneath the headers using a custom wooden board that doesn't put pressure on the pipes and run a safety strap from the centerstand to a slider to ensure the bike can't roll off the centerstand. I just keep the jack underneath, but can see the need for the paint can method for long term storage. I can pull both wheels for tire changes and the only special tool required is the custom wood board with risers to clear the header pipes.

I haven't had the need yet, but I'm sure my lift will also work for pulling the forks. So what makes a front stand better than the method I use?

I don't know that a front lift/stand is better than your method. I assume you can do it your way by yourself. I guess your way is just as stable as a lift/stand. Maybe your wood rots faster than my stand will rust?? Hope you take this as intended, just lighthearted, not criticizing your method.

I'm such a newb on this stuff I just liked what I saw on other front stands and wanted to see if I could duplicate the effect for less $ than buying one and w/o the cutting and welding needed to do one like someone else did recently in stainless steel. I got $60 worth of entertainment from planning and building the lift I did and in using it down the line.

But, tell me about the extra boards under the center stand. Are they necessary in order to pull the rear wheel? Is that also a fender issue? on the center stand and front stand I've got about 1" of clearance at the rear between tire and floor. Will that be enough to pull the wheel?

 

[cota95]

There's more than one way to skin a cat and I always love to see good Redneck engineering at work!
Not to take away from your nice tool, but I use FJReady's method. Put the bike onto the centerstand ontop of a board (allows rear tire to be pulled more easily), use a regular floor jack to lift the bike underneath the headers using a custom wooden board that doesn't put pressure on the pipes and run a safety strap from the centerstand to a slider to ensure the bike can't roll off the centerstand. I just keep the jack underneath, but can see the need for the paint can method for long term storage. I can pull both wheels for tire changes and the only special tool required is the custom wood board with risers to clear the header pipes.

I haven't had the need yet, but I'm sure my lift will also work for pulling the forks. So what makes a front stand better than the method I use?

I don't know that a front lift/stand is better than your method. I assume you can do it your way by yourself. I guess your way is just as stable as a lift/stand. Maybe your wood rots faster than my stand will rust?? Hope you take this as intended, just lighthearted, not criticizing your method.

I'm such a newb on this stuff I just liked what I saw on other front stands and wanted to see if I could duplicate the effect for less $ than buying one and w/o the cutting and welding needed to do one like someone else did recently in stainless steel. I got $60 worth of entertainment from planning and building the lift I did and in using it down the line.

But, tell me about the extra boards under the center stand. Are they necessary in order to pull the rear wheel? Is that also a fender issue? on the center stand and front stand I've got about 1" of clearance at the rear between tire and floor. Will that be enough to pull the wheel?

A nice 2x8 under the center stand will just make it easier. You mike need help to get the bike on the center stand because of the decreased leverage.

 

[Bounce]

I drop the red panel out of the back of my Handy Lift to change rear tires. Works nearly as good with the front tire, but backing up onto the lift is exciting at times.

I think i'll build this pipe lift for my SiL though.

 

[Phugedaboudet]

you bet there's interest!

If there is interest on more detailed instructions or hints just give a reply here and I'll tell you what you need to know to duplicate this. The biggest surprise was the cost of pipe. It has been a long time since I had to buy any of this for a home project. The total for all parts for this lift was about $60.

 

[Lee B.]

you bet there's interest!

If there is interest on more detailed instructions or hints just give a reply here and I'll tell you what you need to know to duplicate this. The biggest surprise was the cost of pipe. It has been a long time since I had to buy any of this for a home project. The total for all parts for this lift was about $60.

I'll get back to you tomorrow. I watched KU lose to MU tonight by 2 so it's a little late (bummer). I gotta get to bed.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Excellent job Lee!

Thanks for the post and pix. Any blueprints for this...

Just a thought. Any of you that have kids with a Razor scooter, use the urethane wheels from the scooter.

 

[Harald]

I don't know that a front lift/stand is better than your method. I assume you can do it your way by yourself. I guess your way is just as stable as a lift/stand. Maybe your wood rots faster than my stand will rust?? Hope you take this as intended, just lighthearted, not criticizing your method.
I'm such a newb on this stuff I just liked what I saw on other front stands and wanted to see if I could duplicate the effect for less $ than buying one and w/o the cutting and welding needed to do one like someone else did recently in stainless steel. I got $60 worth of entertainment from planning and building the lift I did and in using it down the line.

But, tell me about the extra boards under the center stand. Are they necessary in order to pull the rear wheel? Is that also a fender issue? on the center stand and front stand I've got about 1" of clearance at the rear between tire and floor. Will that be enough to pull the wheel?

No offense taken or intended. My way isn't the only way, I'm just trying to understand the benefit to using a stand.

And I really appreciate the satisfaction from building your own tools. I do it all the time. Heck, even if I can buy it for the same price, I might still build it for that satisfaction of making it yourself.

The board under the centerstand lifts the bike higher so that the rear wheel can be removed easily. Also allows the front to be raised higher with the jack so that the front wheel can be removed easier.

 

[zenwhipper]

Saweet!!! Have you thought about making the handle quick release so you can set the stand and then remove the handle and not have to worry about tripping over the hande as you move around the front of the bike?

Scott

 

[user 213]

Nice job Lee.

Now I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure you're still going to need to remove the calipers before attempting to pull the wheel. The calipers will hit the rim. It's just a couple of bolts and they slide easily back and out off the rotors. I tossed my reflectors the first time, since you have to remove those first, at least on the Gen I bikes. Don't forget the brake lines too, you will need the extra play with them loose from the fork.

I have a front wheel stand that I use when pulling the front wheel. If I'm doing both wheels, I remove the rear first, then the front, and replace front, then rear. This is because the front end stand reduces the clearance at the rear when you raise the front pivoting on the center stand.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

Same problem with calipers on the GEN II bikes....very very tight fit. I have never tried taking the front wheel off with calipers still attached, but I imagine it would be hell to get them off that way. Anyone else every actually try this?

 

[Capt. Bob]

Same problem with calipers on the GEN II bikes....very very tight fit. I have never tried taking the front wheel off with calipers still attached, but I imagine it would be hell to get them off that way. Anyone else every actually try this?

Did he take them off first , then re-hang them? Clicky

 

[user 213]

Did he take them off first , then re-hang them? Clicky

Probably. Lots of guys don't like to let the calipers hang by the brake lines for any extended periods.

 

[GPRIDER]

You do have to take off the calipers first. I'll put a bucket or something underneath to set them on to relieve the tension on the lines. Lee, that rig looks pretty Rube Goldberg, but I like it. Doesn't look like $60 worth of parts, but what do I know. I've never been a plummer.

GP