Fuse block confusion ?

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Hey, I did not see anything showing the electrons jumping off the neg post and swimming toward the positive post :dribble:

This thread is worthless without electrons swimming :unsure:

:rolleyes:

But that is a nice diagram

 
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That's a great schematic unless your using a power strip from Radio Shack, like the one in the FJR Tech how to. In that case you'd need two strips, one for power and one for ground.

 
That's a great schematic unless your using a power strip from Radio Shack, like the one in the FJR Tech how to. In that case you'd need two strips, one for power and one for ground.
Actually you don't need the second strip for the ground, you can just stack up all the ground wires to one connection or do whatever to connect them together. It also assumes that you are going to fuse all the farkles individually or just leave them tied directly to the battery. Remember that is a relay not a circuit breaker so there is no real protection till you hit 30 amps and the relay melts. That's why the the Blue Sea box is so cool. You can put in a fuse for whatever device or devices you are attaching rather than having some fuse holder hanging around somewhere. The Radio Shack solution works but it ain't elegant if ya know what I mean.

 
Actually you don't need the second strip for the ground, you can just stack up all the ground wires to one connection or do whatever to connect them together.
After connecting all my farkle positives to my new power plate (see This Thread), I stacked all my grounds together and screwed them to the frame. I was just advised to run a no. 10 from that point to the battery, a project I will do when next I have the bike apart.

Jb

 
One extra bit of info.
When wiring anything dealing with audio (mp3 player, GPS, and autocomm together, for example), it's best to run ALL of the power leads from the same +12v and to the same ground. You would not want to use ... say... 1 bus bar in the front with the mp3 and GPS, then the autocomm on a 2nd bus bar under the seat.

Any time you introduce multiple power routes into connected audio equipment, you can set up a noise-causing ground loop. Basically, any audio equipment that gets connected at the audio level, should all have the same power and ground locations.
This is the absolute key. It doesn't necessarily matter which grounds and +12V points are used, as long as they are the same for audio and sensitive electronic equipment.

The axeman diagram is perfect, BTW. Keep in mind that there are individual fuses on the distribution block for each terminal. The diagram doesn't show them, but they are there.

-BD

 
I am mounting a Bluesea box using the diagram posted here with the relay, inline fuse, etc. Thanks for the diagram. Am I able, with that setup, to connect a battery tender to charge through say the heated vest jack using a powerlet jack? Assuming ignition off(no relay power), will the battery charge? Or do I have to have a dedicated jack not run through the bluesea? Along the same lines, can a powerlet jack or cig lighter jack be used to jumpstart the bike. I understand I can bump start it if i push it fast enough.

Thanks for your help!

Bob

 
Or do I have to have a dedicated jack not run through the bluesea?
That's the key there Bob, you need a direct Powerlet to the battery for the charger.

Along the same lines, can a powerlet jack or cig lighter jack be used to jumpstart the bike. I
I have heard of this being done but never witnessed it.

I understand I can bump start it if i push it fast enough.
If the bike battery is completely dead , you cannot push start it. It needs minimum amount of voltage to kick off the ECU and FI.

 
I am mounting a Bluesea box using the diagram posted here with the relay, inline fuse, etc. Thanks for the diagram. Am I able, with that setup, to connect a battery tender to charge through say the heated vest jack using a powerlet jack? Assuming ignition off(no relay power), will the battery charge? Or do I have to have a dedicated jack not run through the bluesea? Along the same lines, can a powerlet jack or cig lighter jack be used to jumpstart the bike. I understand I can bump start it if i push it fast enough.Thanks for your help!

Bob
I took a separete set of battery tender cables and hooked them to the battery. Then I fished the wire down the fairing so I could have acces to the battery without tools if I needed a jump or to run my air compressor. I have the other end of the tender soldered to different connectors. one is a cig lighter for the compressor or other items of high draw. then a second with aligator clips for a jump start.

Pic0012-1.jpg


 
Actually you don't need the second strip for the ground, you can just stack up all the ground wires to one connection or do whatever to connect them together.
This is absolutely true. However, my point was if your using the supplied schematic in this thread and your using a dual row barrier strip and jumper from Radio Shack as outlined in the Installing a 12v Power Strip section on the FJR Tech page... then your probably setting yourself up to burn some wires.

The power strip used the FJR Tech How To is all hot, there is no negative side as described in the referred to schematic.

 
Actually you don't need the second strip for the ground, you can just stack up all the ground wires to one connection or do whatever to connect them together.
This is absolutely true. However, my point was if your using the supplied schematic in this thread and your using a dual row barrier strip and jumper from Radio Shack as outlined in the Installing a 12v Power Strip section on the FJR Tech page... then your probably setting yourself up to burn some wires.

The power strip used the FJR Tech How To is all hot, there is no negative side as described in the referred to schematic.

And that's how I fried the insulation off of the first set of wires and had to make 4 trips to Rat Shack and installed a 2nd PDB as a ground block! :dribble:

 
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I am mounting a Bluesea box using the diagram posted here with the relay, inline fuse, etc. Thanks for the diagram. Am I able, with that setup, to connect a battery tender to charge through say the heated vest jack using a powerlet jack? Assuming ignition off(no relay power), will the battery charge? Or do I have to have a dedicated jack not run through the bluesea? Along the same lines, can a powerlet jack or cig lighter jack be used to jumpstart the bike. I understand I can bump start it if i push it fast enough.Thanks for your help!

Bob
I took a separete set of battery tender cables and hooked them to the battery. Then I fished the wire down the fairing so I could have acces to the battery without tools if I needed a jump or to run my air compressor. I have the other end of the tender soldered to different connectors. one is a cig lighter for the compressor or other items of high draw. then a second with aligator clips for a jump start.

Pic0012-1.jpg
Thanks for your responses Highlander and Fencer. What is your opinion about this: Positive and negative leads coming off the battery going to a set of connectors, then to the bluesea. Compatible with a tender, or as you said alligator clips for jump start when unplugged, and then plugged back in to bring the bluesea online. And where would you put the fuse? Between connector and battery so it is hot when charging battery, or between connector and bluesea? The relay I assume would be between connector and bluesea. The bluesea will be mounted under the seat. Can the connectors be there also, or is that too far away from the battery? Thanks for your patience and help.

Bob

 
Thanks for your responses Highlander and Fencer. What is your opinion about this: Positive and negative leads coming off the battery going to a set of connectors, then to the bluesea. Compatible with a tender, or as you said alligator clips for jump start when unplugged, and then plugged back in to bring the bluesea online. And where would you put the fuse? Between connector and battery so it is hot when charging battery, or between connector and bluesea? The relay I assume would be between connector and bluesea. The bluesea will be mounted under the seat. Can the connectors be there also, or is that too far away from the battery? Thanks for your patience and help.Bob
1.) The more connectors, the more opportunity for failure.

2.) The "connector" is interesting from the standpoint of multi-use. I'd put the fuse downstream from the connector (between the connector and the BlueSea) so that when the battery tender is hooked up it is direct to the battery.

3.) I have my tender connecto tucked under the black plastic near the battery. I think that the shorter the battery tender lead the better, but it electrically it may not make any differenct, except the fuse would be a loooong way from the battery, so that lead would be unfused should it short to ground.

 
After action report....
4 trips to Rat Shack later and half a day cussing trying to jam my fat hands into the fairing, and all is well.

Thanks to everyone else here on the forum for doing the homework. I used the left over left side horn wire (FJRandy's horn wire harness) for a switched power source for the PDB relay. Now I have a pair of PDB's resting on top of the computer under the saddle, easy to add more farkles. I tried mounting PDB's inside the front panels, but there just isn't much room to play with. The Widder heats up nicely and no funny cooking baloney smell. :yahoo:

Besides Santa, where is the best place to get a deal on Widder baloney warmers?

 
[Thanks for your responses Highlander and Fencer. What is your opinion about this: Positive and negative leads coming off the battery going to a set of connectors, then to the bluesea. Compatible with a tender, or as you said alligator clips for jump start when unplugged, and then plugged back in to bring the bluesea online. And where would you put the fuse? Between connector and battery so it is hot when charging battery, or between connector and bluesea? The relay I assume would be between connector and bluesea. The bluesea will be mounted under the seat. Can the connectors be there also, or is that too far away from the battery? Thanks for your patience and help.Bob
I have two leads from the battery both have an in-line fuse at the battery.

one goes from the battery terminals to the pig tail in the pick above then ends, unless I then plug one of the other end to it for jump starting or running a high watt cig lighter end like the air compressor. IE two differen end types to plug into this pigtail.

the second lead is a straight shot to the bluesea block.

on both of these the + and - are connected to the bat terminals.

 
I just would like to add my 3 cents.... I just bought the Blue Sea block...I have used the Power Plate deal in the past and had no problems. What I paln to do is cut the block up into two parts. With a band saw should be easy. Now with my two parts...Neg and Pos, mount them up front in the fwd cowl. I don't want to mount this thing under the seat. The reason being most if not all my ele add-ons are up front and why run wires back to just have to run them back up front again. Wish me luck.

 
You want to see a work in progress? I'm actually installing a second barrier strip. This port one is going to be principally for HID high beams and Widder electrics.

MW061035b.JPG


The clamp is because I'm epoxying the relay to my HID high-beams to the barrier strip relay and then screwing the mas to the back of the instrument panel.

See this link for more details. Warning.....NFJROS....Not FJR Owner Safe. ;)

 
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Thanks Fencer. I think I'll run two leads also. Good help. I owe you one.

 
I just would like to add my 3 cents.... I just bought the Blue Sea block...I have used the Power Plate deal in the past and had no problems. What I paln to do is cut the block up into two parts. With a band saw should be easy. Now with my two parts...Neg and Pos, mount them up front in the fwd cowl. I don't want to mount this thing under the seat. The reason being most if not all my ele add-ons are up front and why run wires back to just have to run them back up front again. Wish me luck.
I'd wager you won't find room for the two halves !! I have my 06 torn apart and there's no way to easily add the barrier strips I had on the 04. ( Had two power and a neg strips on the 04 ) There's just no room up front. If I were you I'd cut two blocks of foam the same size as your intended cut up Blue Sea. See if you can fit the foam before cutting up the Blue Sea.

I've resigned to mounting a Blue Sea in the rear, it's easier to thread wire than try to fit anything up front on the 06. I run the Valentine off the glove box power so that's one savings on wire runs.

 
When I wired my strip, I did it under the dash so the ground wouldnt need to be so long. I think that shorter distance is better. I actually zip tied it to the dash frame and was able to still put on the plastic just fine.

West Marine has great supplies for this.

 
Thanks Highlander...I will cut some foam and see. I sounds like Yamaha wants me to place my Blue Sea in the back!

 
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