Fuse block confusion ?

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[Thanks for your responses Highlander and Fencer. What is your opinion about this: Positive and negative leads coming off the battery going to a set of connectors, then to the bluesea. Compatible with a tender, or as you said alligator clips for jump start when unplugged, and then plugged back in to bring the bluesea online. And where would you put the fuse? Between connector and battery so it is hot when charging battery, or between connector and bluesea? The relay I assume would be between connector and bluesea. The bluesea will be mounted under the seat. Can the connectors be there also, or is that too far away from the battery? Thanks for your patience and help.Bob
I have two leads from the battery both have an in-line fuse at the battery.

one goes from the battery terminals to the pig tail in the pick above then ends, unless I then plug one of the other end to it for jump starting or running a high watt cig lighter end like the air compressor. IE two differen end types to plug into this pigtail.

the second lead is a straight shot to the bluesea block.

on both of these the + and - are connected to the bat terminals.
Just to be a little more clear as to what plugs into the pigtail

Pic0012-1.jpg


plugs.jpg


The other lead is to the Bluesea

 
Thanks again. The jumpers are a good idea. I am going to make some and add to the on bike tools set.

 
I'd wager you won't find room for the two halves !! I have my 06 torn apart and there's no way to easily add the barrier strips I had on the 04. ( Had two power and a neg strips on the 04 ) There's just no room up front. If I were you I'd cut two blocks of foam the same size as your intended cut up Blue Sea. See if you can fit the foam before cutting up the Blue Sea. I've resigned to mounting a Blue Sea in the rear, it's easier to thread wire than try to fit anything up front on the 06. I run the Valentine off the glove box power so that's one savings on wire runs.
I'm sitting with a Blue Sea, wire, connectors, relay, etc in a bag on the bench next to the bike with the first few of the panels off. Considering the effort necessary to get the upper side panels off (not the a,b,c,d panels - the ones outboard of the battery and compartment), I'm really thinking rear is the only practical way to fly also. I've thought about modifying the compartment to accomodate the Blue Sea but I'm afraid of a butcher job. I'm also thinking about running some leads from the Blue Sea to the compartment up through that rubber plug in the bottom for my GPS and Radar Detector. If you aren't paranoid, you could run them both off one fuzed terminal on the Blue Sea with a Y connector in the compartment.

 
Just to be a little more clear as to what plugs into the pigtail
Pic0012-1.jpg


plugs.jpg


The other lead is to the Bluesea
Say Fencer -- I assume those are the jumpers that come with the Battery Tender. Those are designed to go from the wall socket unit to the battery. If you plug those into the pigtail that's hooked TO the battery, you need to be very, very careful how you use them because the polarity will be reversed. That is, if you hook that cord up coming out of the battery, the black clip will be positive and the red clip will be ground.

 
Say Fencer -- I assume those are the jumpers that come with the Battery Tender. Those are designed to go from the wall socket unit to the battery. If you plug those into the pigtail that's hooked TO the battery, you need to be very, very careful how you use them because the polarity will be reversed. That is, if you hook that cord up coming out of the battery, the black clip will be positive and the red clip will be ground.
Nope, I made both pigtales myself, and was careful of polarity. But thanks for the look-out.

 
Say Fencer -- I assume those are the jumpers that come with the Battery Tender. Those are designed to go from the wall socket unit to the battery. If you plug those into the pigtail that's hooked TO the battery, you need to be very, very careful how you use them because the polarity will be reversed. That is, if you hook that cord up coming out of the battery, the black clip will be positive and the red clip will be ground.
Nope, I made both pigtales myself, and was careful of polarity. But thanks for the look-out.

fencer,

Have you tried to jump start the bike using the modified alligator clip lead? Just wondering if the 7.5amp fuse in the battery tender lead is an issue at all or do you need to bump up to a higher amp fuse?

wr

 
Have you tried to jump start the bike using the modified alligator clip lead? Just wondering if the 7.5amp fuse in the battery tender lead is an issue at all or do you need to bump up to a higher amp fuse?
The starter motor draws ~25 amps. If you have a low or depleted battery and try to jump start through the pigtail, your pigtail will see most of the 25 amps flowing through it. If you try to start your bike with a Battery Tender or equivalent attached you *may* be able to get it repaired or replaced under warranty :eek:

 
I think the starter motor draws a bit more than 25 amps. The output power rating of the motor is 800 watts. The starter relay rating is 180 amperes.

Assuming 12 volts is applied to the motor and it's 90 % efficient then:

(800 watts / 0.9) / 12 volts = 74 amps

 
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EDITED:

The FJR electrical system DOES BYPASS THE MAIN FUSE when starting and may draw over 50 amps. Technically, .8kW at 12 volts draws 62 amps. The efficiency assumption is good too, leading to ~75 amps. Mr. Mesh is correct. Thanks!

[esoteric]

I think the starter motor draws a bit more than 25 amps. The output power rating of the motor is 800 watts. The starter relay rating is 180 amperes.
The stated .8kW is OUTPUT POWER, or effective hp being delivered to the crank -- .8kW is just a bit over 1 hp being delivered which is equal to ~50 amps max at 14 volts. The starter relay rating of 180 amps is the max current rating of the contacts within the starter relay. The main fuse going to the starter motor is 50 amps. Some electrical systems bypass the main fuse when cranking but this is not the case in the FJR. Were the starting circuit to draw 75 amps the Main Fuse would pop. FWIW.

[/esoteric] :)

 
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fencer,
Have you tried to jump start the bike using the modified alligator clip lead? Just wondering if the 7.5amp fuse in the battery tender lead is an issue at all or do you need to bump up to a higher amp fuse?

wr
No, Not yet, Its an 06 and I hope the batter lasts for a while. I did replace the in-line with a 30 amp fuse. I had the same setup on my Katana (the battery was a PITA) to jump due to local (underseat bar in the way) and had to use mini aligators to fit to it. It worked ok on the Kat.

 
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No, Not yet, Its an 06 and I hope the batter lasts for a while. I did replace the in-line with a 30 amp fuse. I had the same setup on my Katana (the battery was a PITA) to jump due to local (underseat bar in the way) and had to use mini aligators to fit to it. It worked ok on the Kat.

thanks for the info; I believe the battery in my '04 is the orginal. Seems to be fairly weak on starting, so once I get the alligator clip set-up, I'll see if it will work (in the safety of the garage...).

wr

 
fyi,

After reversing the clips on the battery tender alligator leads to get the polarity correct, I then started and shut off the bike leaving the key on to wear down the battery(assisted by turning on GPSV & heated grips). Keyed the starter, and got the expected click, click, click. I then plugged in the alligator clip jumper cable extension to the battery tender lead hooked to the battery. I hooked the a-clips to the battery on my other bike, and the fjr rolled over and fired up. So, in short, Fencer's shadetree-mechanic jumper cables work.

I did replace the 7.5a fuse with a 25a in both sections of the leads (battery to connector & alligator clip to connector).

wr

 
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