Fuseblock Install Question

[Tree Doc]

Installing my PC8 fuseblock right now. Can somebody point me in the right direction/location for a convenient and hopefully easy circuit to tie my relay into for the switched circuit side of the block? My harness is direct to the battery, of course, but I need to get a switched circuit to actuate the relay when the ignition is turned on. I did a bit of searching but couldn't find anything that put me right onto the issue. I'd appreciate the help.

 

[Fred W]

Best bet on a first gen is the connector that you unplug to disable the auto windshield retract. One of the two wires on the harness side is switched 12V. Refer to the instructions on unplugging/disabling the AWR, which was a PITA IMO.

 

[BwanaDik]

Here's how I did it

Install

Use the wire that goes into the tail light under the rear tupperware. I think it's the blue one? Check the manual or the actual bulb holder. Take the tupperware off (it's easy) so you can get a solid connection.

Lots of folks around here swear by those inline twisty things (Posi-Lok) to tap into a wire for the relay circuit but I didn't like them. I ended up cutting into the wire and doing a "proper" "Y" connector to get the switched power

 

[Tree Doc]

Best bet on a first gen is the connector that you unplug to disable the auto windshield retract. One of the two wires on the harness side is switched 12V. Refer to the instructions on unplugging/disabling the AWR, which was a PITA IMO.

Thank you! Me likey that idea of using the AWR switch because after 1.5 weeks of ownership and thinking how bitchin the AWR is, I'm done with that shit because the last 20 times I waxed the bike, I have to turn on the ignition to get under the windscreen! :lol2:

Off to dig up the AWR disconnect info.

 

[Patriot]

Best bet on a first gen is the connector that you unplug to disable the auto windshield retract. One of the two wires on the harness side is switched 12V. Refer to the instructions on unplugging/disabling the AWR, which was a PITA IMO.

Thank you! Me likey that idea of using the AWR switch because after 1.5 weeks of ownership and thinking how bitchin the AWR is, I'm done with that shit because the last 20 times I waxed the bike, I have to turn on the ignition to get under the windscreen! :lol2:

Off to dig up the AWR disconnect info.

https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=12

 

[Bustanut joker]

Waxed the bike Twenty times?

Ya gots way too much time feller..

Why, shit..... in four years I've waxed meself off more than I've waxed me scoot.

Think the pig bitch last got that kinda love in '06.

Waxing more than once every three years is just plain ghey.. Unless it's the shit the little bastards in my neighborhood apply to me windows on Halloween.

:jester:

 

[Old Michael]

Think the pig bitch last got that kinda love in '06.

...for the odot and Bearly visit?

Freak.

 

[CAJW]

Best bet on a first gen is the connector that you unplug to disable the auto windshield retract. One of the two wires on the harness side is switched 12V. Refer to the instructions on unplugging/disabling the AWR, which was a PITA IMO.

Thank you! Me likey that idea of using the AWR switch because after 1.5 weeks of ownership and thinking how bitchin the AWR is, I'm done with that shit because the last 20 times I waxed the bike, I have to turn on the ignition to get under the windscreen! :lol2:

Off to dig up the AWR disconnect info.

That works out to a wax job every 1.8 days! Seriously, one other location to switch your relay from is off of the low beam headlight. This works if you want your accessories to remain unpowered until the engine is running. Works well for all of mine (RD, heated grips, Solteks) as I have my GPS powered from a Powerlet directly connected to the battery that doubles as a port for my Battery Tender. Just another option to consider.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Think the pig bitch last got that kinda love in '06.

...for the odot and Bearly visit?

Freak.

Well fer "decent" folk I do tend to step above the crowd... It's a respect thing, ya know?

For you my friend?

Well lets just say I'd rub the old bitch down with goat shit...

:finger:

:jester:

 

[Bounce]

Here's one way: https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[FJRGuy]

My fuseblock is in the tail so I used the taillight (blue) wire for the trigger. A Posi-Tap is awesome for this purpose as is does not damage the original wires, take only a couple of seconds to install, is mechanically sound and removable with nothing but a pinhole as evidence.

If I were to put a fuseblock up front, I'd use the AWR connector.

 

[Joe Cleland]

You can also tap the blue wire with the green stripe (or is it the Green wire with the blue stripe) under the instrument cluster. Its hot only when the engine is running, like the headlights.

Joey

 

[FJRBluesman]

I spliced into the turn signal wire.

 

[puppychow]

I spliced into the turn signal wire.

+1. But the decision had already been made for me - the PO was running the heated grips circuit off of the turn signal circuit :dribble: :dribble: fortunately no damage done - he could have fried those wirings, not intended to carry that much current. Since, he had already spliced into the turn signal circuitry, I used that to trigger the relay in my Fuzeblock.

 

[Tree Doc]

Waxed the bike Twenty times?
Ya gots way too much time feller..

Why, shit..... in four years I've waxed meself off more than I've waxed me scoot.

Think the pig bitch last got that kinda love in '06.

Waxing more than once every three years is just plain ghey.. Unless it's the shit the little bastards in my neighborhood apply to me windows on Halloween.

:jester:

Make that TWENTY ONE times....it rained on my me while I was setting up the wiring! :devil:

Project completed. Thanks for the replies.

Fred's AWR idea was just perfect since I wanted to do that anyway. The AWR connector had a jumper loop in it. I pulled the jumper wire and removed both of the solderless connectors inside the plug-in, used one of those solderless connectors and soldered it on to my relay trigger wire and reinstalled it back into the connector, then plugged it back in. Now I have ignition "on" power and my AWR is disabled. 2 birds, one stone.

I'm using an Eastern Beaver PC8 and 60" harness with the main fuse AND the relay up near the battery, then the harness runs all way back to the taillight area where the PC8 is located. My Autocom with the GPS as well as the Radar Detector dongles are alongside the Autocomm main unit right under the seat (not toolbox), while my Bluetooth dongle is up just aft of the steering head where all the wires/cables come through the frame. Evrything is secured in loom and zip ties. It came out very clean. Sorry I failed on the Pics...I was just too wound up and forgot.

Now...it's almost 9:00. Time to go for a spin right now. Tomorrow, 1 appointment at a winery in Sisquoc in the early a.m., then I'm done for the week so off to Tepusquet Canyon Road, then Foxen Canyon Road, and wherever the road takes me from there!

 

[Tree Doc]

UH-OH....trouble?!

Bike fires right up but she's stumbling & missing, panel lights a little dim, too. Was headed down the street at low speed and my yellow light came on breifly, bike acted like she wanted to quit but didn't, electronics kicked off and then back on. Turned back for the hangar and she's running rough and then died but restarts with what seems like a decent starter.

My ignition was left on for several significant periods during parts of the install. Would a very low battery cause this symptom? Can't imagine anything else that I did that would cause this problem. Gonna go pull Panel D and put a voltmeter on her and see what she says.

DAMN!

EDIT UPDATE: Never mind. Brain Fart on my part. The battery ground was loose. Connection was bobbling around as the bolt didn't reach and connect to the nut since I had 1 more connector added to it from the harness. Tomorrow I ride!

 

[Fred W]

...one other location to switch your relay from is off of the low beam headlight. This works if you want your accessories to remain unpowered until the engine is running. Works well for all of mine (RD, heated grips, Solteks) as I have my GPS powered from a Powerlet directly connected to the battery that doubles as a port for my Battery Tender. Just another option to consider.

How did you do that and not have the relay de-energize when you switch to high beam?

You can also tap the blue wire with the green stripe (or is it the Green wire with the blue stripe) under the instrument cluster. Its hot only when the engine is running, like the headlights.

Green w/ Blue tracer on both 1st and 2nd generation bikes. Goes between Headlight Relay #1 and Headlight Relay #2 (both gens), and on second gens also goes to the heated grips connector (even if you don't have heated grips or an AE).

I spliced into the turn signal wire.

Hopefully not as then the relay would energize and de-energize at the rate of the flashing turn signal. I think you meant that you wired it to the running light in the turn signal. Right?