FuzeBlock vs Centech?

[Bounce]

I liked this. It was cheaper and works great!

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[FJRGuy]

Despite the quality of Jim's (EB) work, IMHO the Fuzeblock is THE way to go. I was incredibly impressed with the quality of the product and it's ease of install and use make it a great option. I think there are changes that could be made to make it perfect for me, but is as close as any fuse block option out there can come.

The only reason I would consider the EB solution is if I required circuits with more amps. Planning on putting aux lights direct to the battery for convenience anyway so not and issue for me. If you're concerned about the relay failing (or wearing out ) don't be. It is highly unlikely that the relay will not outlast your bike. And in the rare event of a failure, it would be a really simple swap out.

 

[kawabeemer]

AutoZone sells a fuse block with 6 fused circuits from one input terminal which I installed on my Roadstar trike. It sells for about 8 bucks. It's not as 'pretty' as the $60 Centeck unit I mount in my '05 FJR, but it works just as well.....It seems that the electons don't care what the farkle costs as long as it is properly designed to flow electrons.

 

[bmwhd]

I began to unravel the farkle sins of the past this weekend and to install a fuzeblock.

My battery posts had about reached capacity ;-)

In total I'm removing 4 individual fuse holders and two extra relays as part of this project and really cleaning up the wire runs.

EDIT Work is complete now. Fuzeblock installed in tail area under pillion seat. The included relay is triggered by the heated grips circuit so my 'switched' systems come on after engine start (grips, voltmeter) while my GPS and Gerbing plug are always on. I also used the ground bus on the fuzebock for 3 additional grounds that were in the neighborhood (PCIII, Audiovox cruise, and tail light relay).

I ended up removing a ton of stuff that was cluttering the front end but it did require two loomed wire runs down the sides of the bike to/from the farkles and the fuzeblock. While the total amount of wire went up, the clutter and confusion went way down. I also like having all the farkle fuses accessible under the seat.

Since I had the tank and side panels off, I inspected the black widow ground spider (it looked new) and re-verified clearance/condition/tightness of all the cruise control fittings. I'm also happy to note that my old Fred H. throttle pulley mod continues to work like a champ!

 

[tesla]

Resurrecting this thread. I have been going back and forth with deciding between Fuzeblock or EB PC-8. I'm probably going with PC-8 mainly due to a higher capacity that I may or may not use. The big consideration is heated gear which I'll probably get. Gerbing vest liner, and gloves needs a 10 amp fuse which means a Fuzeblock would work but if I went for the heated jacket liner instead of the vest and kept the gloves we need a 15 amp fuse. If going with gen 4 Warm N Safe jacket liner and gloves they also would require 15 amps (leaning to Warm N Safe since MCN gave them better reviews for the jacket). Extra lighting is not an issue since I rarely ride at night (those Glenda's sure look sweet though!) The only downside to PC-8 is that costs a bit more and may be a bit more difficult to install but not much more on either account. Also with a 50 amp relay, I'll be set for any electrical farkles installed in the future.

Barry

 

[VanHarlan]

Partial to the FuzeBlock myself. Running my warm & Safe Gen4 heated gear off of it without a problem . . . I mounted it under the rear seat on RoadRunner's Mounting Bracket sold on the Forum by our member RoadRunner.

 

[TomInPA]

I'm running W&S heated jacket which has considerably higher draw than the Gerbings vest. Keep in mind the fuse size is not the actual draw of the device. In the case of the heated jacket, 90 watts/14 volts = 6.4 amps. No problem, even assuming you run it at the full capacity.

 

[tesla]

Now I'm confused. On the Warm N Safe website, I could not find the specific draw for the liner but I did find it for their heat troller, which they recommend. It states this:

Max Load in Standard Configuration - 15 amp at 13.8 volt.

You guys have their heat troller wired to the Fuzebox? Ok to wire it to the 10 amp fuse?

I'd rather go with the Fuzebox if I could.

 

[VanHarlan]

Now I'm confused. On the Warm N Safe website, I could not find the specific draw for the liner but I did find it for their heat troller, which they recommend. It states this:

Max Load in Standard Configuration - 15 amp at 13.8 volt.

You guys have their heat troller wired to the Fuzebox? Ok to wire it to the 10 amp fuse?

I'd rather go with the Fuzebox if I could.

I have my W&S Troller Harness to my FuzeBlock with a 15 amp fuse on the "constant" hot side of the block.