G@& Damn. Battery!

[ionbeam]

...If you can confirm that your key off current draw is > 10mA you have no problem and your dead battery was just one of those things that you wished happened to someone else

If your battery draw with the key off is more than 10 mA IMO, the current draw source should be found and either fixed or changed over to an ignition switched power source.

Think it should be < 10 mA, not > 10 mA...

Damn spell checker, how could it have missed that That's what happens when I post while in a hurry. I had a PR4 front tire heating because it wouldn't inflate and refused to set the bead and the clock was running on the day.

 

[mcatrophy]

Rode the bike Friday, no issues. Went to ride today, dead. Tried the Deltran tender, and it won't charge. Pulled the battery and tried my normal charger, got 1.1 volt and error code to replace battery. Put my voltmeter to it and got 1.6 volts.This is a 2013 w/ original battery (2 1/2yrs old). I have a GPS directly wired to the battery, though the GPS wasn't on the bike, and a TPMS wired to the glovebox. Both were added right after I got the bike, so nothing new added. The key wasn't left in the bike.

...

Could you have left it switched in the park position when you pulled the key out?

(Click on image for larger view)



Leaves the lights on.

 

[YummYam]

BTW, "Amazon" itself (besides vendors there) sells Yuasa batteries. They come dry, you add acid(included).

I read one guy had an issue, Amazon sent a new one immediatly, no questions asked..

Can't get much better than that..

I would be checking for any excessive, electrical draw while the bike sits before installing any new battery and rule that out..

Got my replacement from Amazon about 18 months ago. Filled it with the supplied acid, no problems since. (not tempting fate!)

The original lasted 7 years! I still throw the tender on it from time to time just in case.

 

[LKLD]

Rode the bike Friday, no issues. Went to ride today, dead. Tried the Deltran tender, and it won't charge. Pulled the battery and tried my normal charger, got 1.1 volt and error code to replace battery. Put my voltmeter to it and got 1.6 volts.

This is a 2013 w/ original battery (2 1/2yrs old). I have a GPS directly wired to the battery, though the GPS wasn't on the bike, and a TPMS wired to the glovebox. Both were added right after I got the bike, so nothing new added. The key wasn't left in the bike.

...

Could you have left it switched in the park position when you pulled the key out?(Click on image for larger view)https://atrophy.lock.net//pi/fjr/index.php?image=DSCF4426_cr.jpg&sz=1][img=[URL="https://atrophy.lock.net/pi/fjr/tmp/0_DSCF4426_cr.jpg%5D"]https://atrophy.lock.net/pi/fjr/tmp/0_DSCF4426_cr.jpg][/URL][/url]

Leaves the lights on.

No, as I pulled the key, and no parking lights.

 

[LKLD]

ok, so I got the battery installed, after hooking it up to the Deltran charger, and hooked up the leads to the negative on the battery and the neg battery lead from the bike, with the positive lead connected to the battery. Here is what it showed:



I then continued by switching the red lead like ion suggested and got this:




This started at about .020 and got as high as .160, and then would fall and rise from there out, hovering around .150. I have zero idea if this is normal.

 

[mcatrophy]

... as I pulled the key, and no parking lights.

Pulling the key is no indication of being in the "park" position. If you know the steering wasn't locked, or you are absolutely sure the parking lights were off then it wasn't in the park position.
But it's easy to do, thinking you've just removed the key in the lock position, and in daylight you may well miss the parking lights being on.

Anyway, just a thought.

 

[LKLD]

Well, I don't think that's what happened. However, I've been wrong many times before.

So, is it normal what's happening in my video?

 

[stealth1]

Well, I don't think that's what happened. However, I've been wrong many times before.

So, is it normal what's happening in my video?

In the vid you have the test lead in the correct position to read milliamps.

It is not unusual for digital meters to fluctuate when reading very low levels due to factors such as the slight resistance where the leads touch the circuit.

also possible the leak to ground is a loose connection.

You definitely have a very slight draw somewhere. How much does the clock draw?

That's the only thing I can think of that draws current when everything is shut off.

You may be able to isolate it by pulling fuses one at a time till it goes away.

 

[mcatrophy]

Well, I don't think that's what happened. However, I've been wrong many times before.

So, is it normal what's happening in my video?

If I read the video correctly, that's up to 0.15 mA, well within acceptable limits (1 mA is 1/1000 amps). Its variation is a little strange, unless it's a meter effect where it takes a loooonnng time to stabilise.

As some sort of reference, I measured my '14's current draw (posted here), it was much less than yours at under 10uA (1uA is 1/1000000 amps). However, I expect the technology used in the ECU has changed giving a lower quiescent current.

 

[audiowize]

Switch your meter to the 200mA scale and move the red probe. That will give you more resolution at lower current. Do not switch the key on with the meter in this position.

 

[stealth1]

Switch your meter to the 200mA scale and move the red probe. That will give you more resolution at lower current. Do not switch the key on with the meter in this position.

he already had the red probe in the mA position in the video

 

[ionbeam]

Switch your meter to the 200mA scale and move the red probe. That will give you more resolution at lower current. Do not switch the key on with the meter in this position.

he already had the red probe in the mA position in the video

The RED meter lead is in the jack that only measures the 10 AMPS scale, no other lower current scales on the meter can be read with the RED lead in this jack. The RED meter lead needs to be moved to the mA jack and the range dial pointer on the meter moved to the 200m scale to make the lower current measurements.

When you are through making CURRENT measurements, please remember to move the RED meter lead back to the VOLTS jack on the left side. Or your meter will drive you nuts because it won't read correctly and you won't know why. Trust me, this can be a stumper, even for experienced electronic techs.

Edit to carry on more about the meter:

The 10A jack is special and only intended for measuring current up to 10 amps when the range dial is set to the 20m/10A scale and this is all it does. To measure lower current the rRED meter read lead has to be moved to the mA jack.

 

[WellWell]

Greetings

No matter how much you pay for a battery or what it is.

Or how many gadgets you attach to test it:

Corroded attachments leads to the battery or ground will give you this problem.

A separation and internal corrosion with in the ground cable will give you this problem.

Clean your connections.

peace

 

[LKLD]

Thanks, I checked those before I posted.